HELP! Electric system went crazy and heard a "bang" on the drive back from the tuners

MarkIII4Me

Project OVERKILL!!!
Apr 10, 2005
1,249
2
38
Charleston, SC
So I start the car and for some reason the ebrake light stays on when I release it. When I pulled the ebrake the light got a little brighter, but when I released it, it dimed slightly but stayed on. After a few minutes of driving it went off, but after a few more miles, the brake light came on at full brightness and now it has stayed that way. The ABS light use to blink, but it stays on solid now too. The factory voltmeter stays around 12.5v at any rpm and when I put my turn signals on, the rvoltage gauge needle moves from 12v-12.5v back and forth in unison with the turns signals clicking on and off. All aftermarket accessories which are taking power and ground from separate places are all acting weird. EBC not properly holding boost, HKS TEMS controller randomly getting stuck in full firm no matter how I set it, and my UNGO wb is all over the place. I checked over all my engine bay grounds and they are secure. What could be going on? Alternator internal regulator fried?

I drove the vehicle home from the tuners for 80 miles like this. At first it ran great. Did a couple of hard pulls and even though the wb gauge sometimes read lean as hell (16+), it ran fine and there were no signs of pre-detonation. I figured the wb was reading incorrectly as the dyno sheet showed low 11's under boost. However, about ten miles from my exit, I did a hard pull and a few seconds after I let off, I heard a bang/pop kind and sound a metal jingle noise as if something snapped and flew under the car. The sound came from the turbo side of the vehicle. Mind you this happened a second or two after I let off the gas. After which I could hear an exhaust leak from the ddp and the engine now sounds like a diesel. When I got home, I checked all intercooler coupler and clamps and they are secure. The wastegate flapper arm is still attached. The turbo has zero shaft play (thank god). No milkshake in oil or oil in coolant. The engine now has a slight miss at idle as well. I know these turbonetics bolt-on had wastegate sticking open issues, but that doesn't explain the noise I heard if that's the case.

I know there's got to be a few things going on here, electrical and mechanical. I appreciate any advise to help me troubleshoot what the hell is going on. This is the second time I have picked my car up from the tuners and it takes a shit on me on the drive home. So this is an ongoing issue.

The tuner is closed right now so I can't call and ask if they've experienced this while they had it, but if you look and my dyno pull and the chart, everything seemed to be good for them. I have no luck with this damn thing. :3d_frown:

I can't keep taking it to the tuners as between the two I have over 2 grand invested and still have issues. It's been at 2 reputable shops already.

Here's my recent thread with the dyno run:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...-and-chart-*&p=1913016&viewfull=1#post1913016
 

MarkIII4Me

Project OVERKILL!!!
Apr 10, 2005
1,249
2
38
Charleston, SC
Brake fluid is full and reservoir cap is plugged in. Won't have time to pull ABS codes until later in the week. And the abs is the least of my worries right now. More concerned as to what is wreaking havoc on the electrical system.
 

MarkIII4Me

Project OVERKILL!!!
Apr 10, 2005
1,249
2
38
Charleston, SC
Yeah, probably not the smartest move, but it doesn't appear I caused any internal damage. Luckily the electric issue isn't affecting the EMS. Not sure why. I had a friend who is very good with these cars check it out and he said that the wb gauge was not reading correctly and there was no way it was correctly showing the af, and to go ahead and drive the car as I was hesitant.

Mind you, I haven't driven this thing in 10 years and I'm two weeks away from moving 10 hours away and I'm not taking the car with me. So I just wanted to drive it for once. And I was far from beating on it.

Plus, the dyno run was done with said electric issues and the dyno chart looks good and the actual was good. They just couldn't get the ebc to keep boost steady at anything other than 18psi. Bugs me that they didn't see that there was something major going on with the electric system. I told them that I wanted this Supra to be able to take a 10 hour drive when I came to pick it up.
 
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SC61 MK3

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
316
0
0
55
FL
Check for corrosion and clean all battery terminals and connections. Get a volt meter and measure voltage with the car running starting at the battery and alternator, look for any drop off of voltage
 

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
0
16
San Antonio, TX
Not that I have a clue about the rest of your issues, but I had a similar issue with the brake light on the dash. It kept me from using the cruise control which is why I noticed. It finally went out after I changed the brakes. It eventually came back on but I never got the chance to investigate it further