Help: After putting a MHG, I have oil in coolant.

acetmi

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Apr 27, 2005
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So my car was running well before I decided to tear it up and put in a MHG. The whole length of the head was machined, but for the block I cleaned it myself and went up to 1500grit sand paper. I'm using a Greddy 1.5 MHG, with a copper spray coating. I filled my coolant with just water.

I start up the car, and the engine idles rough, peaking up and down. However, after 15 min or so of running, I saw white some coming out of the exhaust manifold side of the engine bay. So I shut the car down, but I could not see any oil leaks, either from the turbo feed/return hoses, or the dip stick. No oil leak form the front of the car either. However, I check my coolant, and it's that creamy/light yellow color, and i can see oil in the coolant. I check my oil using the dipstick, and in about the 15 min of running the engine, almost all the oil is used up. There was no coolant in the oil, however.

Does that only mean one thing? That the head gasket did not seal? Could there be something else?

Any help at all will be very highly appreciated.
 

acetmi

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Apr 27, 2005
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skim1040 said:
possibly...Probablly dumb question, but did you tork everything down properly etc?

Torqued head bolts to 85lbs. All head stuff was also torqued to specs. I was expecting things to turn out fine, but I may also be wiling to sell off my car (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24838) as I dont have time till next summer if I am to open the engine up again.

But please, if there may be any other problem besides a possible loose head gasket, lemme know.
 

steve_mk3

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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What head gasket did you use? If cometic did you check to make sure the rivets were correct?
Did you place the sealent on the two spots in the front?
Did you make sure the inner timming cover was level with the block deck?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Allan_MA70 said:
sanding block = bad

you have to mechine the block for a MHG no if's but's or maybe's


Not only bad...sanding the block is best way there is to FUBAR a block deck. Using sealer on a new MHG = destroy/turn into goo factory seal coating. 85 ft/lbs on factory head bolts...bolts have already been stretched = crap shoot on even torque distributation. RA on the head surface? Anything more than a 30 RA for a Greddy = potential bad seal.

Hate to say this, but you did just about everything possible to ensure the HG would not seal properly. :3d_frown:
 

acetmi

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jdub said:
Not only bad...sanding the block is best way there is to FUBAR a block deck. Using sealer on a new MHG = destroy/turn into goo factory seal coating. 85 ft/lbs on factory head bolts...bolts have already been stretched = crap shoot on even torque distributation. RA on the head surface? Anything more than a 30 RA for a Greddy = potential bad seal.

Hate to say this, but you did just about everything possible to ensure the HG would not seal properly. :3d_frown:

85lbs on ARP studs. RA on head surface was 20. Ahh, guess I'll call it a painful learning experience.
 

jdub

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acetmi said:
85lbs on ARP studs. RA on head surface was 20. Ahh, guess I'll call it a painful learning experience.

Ok...those are good (it's 81 ft/lbs for ARP studs using moly BTW)
We'll reduce punishment to 25 lashes ;)

Your block is going to require decking to the same RA spec.
 

cadman

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Aug 10, 2006
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jdub said:
Ok...those are good (it's 81 ft/lbs for ARP studs using moly BTW)
We'll reduce punishment to 25 lashes ;)

Your block is going to require decking to the same RA spec.

Yeah... he'll pluck 25 of your eye lashes out... one... at...a...time!!!
 

Insidious Surmiser

Formerly 89jdm7m
May 12, 2006
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acetmi said:
85lbs on ARP studs. RA on head surface was 20. Ahh, guess I'll call it a painful learning experience.
i went w/ arp's recomendations... i figure they say 75 ft/lbs (may not be the correct #) for a reason, and it's far better than toyota's torque specs... i also used a stock HG because i couldn't locate a machine shop that could machine my block/head properly at a fair price
 

jdub

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89jdm7m said:
i went w/ arp's recomendations... i figure they say 75 ft/lbs (may not be the correct #) for a reason, and it's far better than toyota's torque specs... i also used a stock HG because i couldn't locate a machine shop that could machine my block/head properly at a fair price

ARP spec on their head bolts is 75 ft/lbs using moly when installed on an aluminum head (like ours).
 

americanjebus

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ok dont want to make you feel dumb but i have to ask

when you did this did you make sure you completely drained the block of coolant and oil when you changed your hg. i mean completely.

i did a hg job on another car and there was enough coolant left in the block and enough oil that didnt drain out that when i was doing my work they got mixed, (this engine was tilted so probably more likely to happen than in a 7m) but either way. have you changed both atleast twice so far to make sure its not just contaminated oil and coolant that you mixed after running your engine?

two oil changes and two flushes fixed my problem, its a long shot but i hate to tell you that all of your work was for nothing and that you have to do the whole thing over again.
 

jdub

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acetmi said:
Too late... I've already done that after I realized my mess up.

Hey man...don't feel too bad. I'll let you in on a secret...a lot of us here have screwed up too...maybe even worse than you ;)

When you figure out what you're going to do, ask an we'll try to help. looks like to me you're open to being helped :thumbup: