HELP a noob

pinkiscool666

Live fast Die hard
Nov 9, 2005
17
0
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35
Maryland
www.cardomain.com
Alright here is the low down, I have a 1987 turbo, with 147,000 miles on it. I want an upgraded turbo, but as we all know, the dreaded BHG is right around the corner. So I want to get a MHG for my car, im 90% sure that the original HG is fine (not blown) but im not 100% sure. I was wondering weither or not you would suggest me doing this myself and if i did what kind of prep work, time, ect. I would be getting my self into.
Thanx for the input.
 

ians13

New Member
Nov 8, 2005
537
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Jacksonville, fl
If you have some good mechanical knowledge, you can do it does take some time, it’s common knowledge to get the head and block at lest checked before you put on a metal HG. I just put a jdm motor in my car that was said to have low mileage but the hg was in really bad shape, with that many miles as soon as you turn up the boost it will blow this I learned the hard way.

took me about 3hrs with the engine out of the car, in car it takes like 8 hrs not including machine work if it is needed
 

pinkiscool666

Live fast Die hard
Nov 9, 2005
17
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0
35
Maryland
www.cardomain.com
Yea I really hope that machine work isnt needed, if not ill just sand that bastard like there is no tommoro, lol. Another think I was wondering is what direction to look in when it comes to buying the HG and headbolts
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
6,359
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Hot and Humid, KY
If you're putting on a MHG you MUST machine the block and head to the proper RA spec for the brand of HG you get. When you machine the block, make damn sure you've got the lower backing plate bolted on when doing so (can't remember the actual name of the plate).

If you don't do this, you might as well toss the money you spent on the HG down the toilet. Do it right the first time.

Get new head bolts/studs, preferably ARP studs. Torque those down to 81 ft/lbs. w/moly when installing. Don't spray ANYTHING on the new MHG, it's got it's own sealant on it right out of the package.

Make sure the bottom end is in good shape while it's outa the car for machine work. Do the same for the head, check the valve lash. Go ahead and get a new timing belt as the old one could be stretched (I think either GReddy or HKS makes the best one out there for our car...).

Do not start upgrading the car with performace part until AT LEAST all of this stuff is done, or you will be parked in the driveway for an extended period of time ;).

Hope this helps! Didn't mean to rant BTW.
 

pinkiscool666

Live fast Die hard
Nov 9, 2005
17
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0
35
Maryland
www.cardomain.com
I was reading in older posts of people using the cometic MHG and just sanding there head and block, and using ARP studs and bolts at 81 ft/lbs. and that being fine. But your definatly right about doing it right the first time. do you have any idea of how much all that would cost. As a 17 y/o I dont have all the money or time in the world. I can do the HG and the studs/bolts. Its the machine shop that has me shaking in my boots.
 

americanjebus

Mr. Evergreen
Mar 30, 2005
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machine shop is not that expensive, i had my head machined for $40 and your block should not be much more. Call your local auto shops and talk to them go into detail of exactly what you want them to do and they will know a ballpark figure. Just ask arround and find the guys with the experience and ability to get the RA's you need.

the expensive part wont come from you taking your engine to the machine shop, it will come from all of the little things your going to find on that 19 year old car.

GL with it man and thnx for searching too. A cometic with arps to 80+lbs will be perfect for your needs. Just take your time.
 

pinkiscool666

Live fast Die hard
Nov 9, 2005
17
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35
Maryland
www.cardomain.com
If i get the head machined can i leave the block the way it is if there isnt anything wrong with it. Also how much time are we looking at for the head being machined, or even the head and block.
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
6,359
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Hot and Humid, KY
Balpark figure: MHG: 300.00 for a good one
ARP studs:110.00
Timing belt:250.00-300.00
Machine work:150-200.00

As you can see the machine work is one of the smaller things to worry about...
 

pinkiscool666

Live fast Die hard
Nov 9, 2005
17
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0
35
Maryland
www.cardomain.com
Ok lets just say that I have 1000 smackarooos laying in my underwear drawer one morning. How much time is my baby gana be disabled. Are we talking one, two, three days, or more like a month. I wouldnt even care but its my DD and the only means of tras. to work, school ect. I can do a week, But a month is way over my time limit.
 

tonysupra

Supramania Contributor
Dec 3, 2005
224
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39
CT
It took the shop about two weeks to do my HG. Total cost was $1200. This included the hks mhg, arp studs, machine work, and some other gaskets that will need to be replace.
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
6,359
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Hot and Humid, KY
Well, the downtime all depends on how long it takes the machinist to do the work on the head and block ;). Don't send it off until you have all of the other parts that you plan on installing to cut off some of the downtime.

It will be a lot cheaper if you do the HG job yourself. There are step-by-step instuctions on how to do this, it's been coved TONS of times on here ;). Once you get the head and block back from the machinist I would dedicate a good day or two of doing the HG job just so you can take your time on it and make sure you did it right...
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
1,727
0
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Oshawa, ON, CA
I took it to a Toyota mechanic who does work on the side. Cost me 1300 CDN. Took about 2 weeks. Spend the money now...trust me. Its the best thing ever to turn up the boost and not have to worry...as much.
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
1
36
36
Downey, California, United States
pinkiscool666 said:
Wow sounds like alot of $$$ but it aslo sounds worth it. I know that i can do the job myself. But i dont know if i can pull the whole engine apart, to get the block out, that seems a bit much.

lol...yea, and if you are going to machine the block for a MHG, you have ti completely disassemble it. :aigo:
 

americanjebus

Mr. Evergreen
Mar 30, 2005
1,867
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pinkiscool666 said:
Thats what makes it hard for me, not only do i not have time, or money, i also dont have a GARAGE

i did this in 4 days of actual work, and 1 week of downtime, sat and sun take the engine out and take it appart, label all of the metal parts with a sharpie, have it all numbered and in a tub or taped together. monday drop off head and block. Pick up on friday. then spend sat and sun assembling engine. with it out of the car putting your engine back together will go much faster, drop it in finish loose ends. I didnt pull the engine, i just putty scraped the block to a reflective finish, and torqued an oem hg to 74lbs on a machined head. Still running strong.

just hope it doesnt rain on your ass while you work on it outside. Its your choice if you decide to go mhg or oem. All depends on your goals especially if your going upgraded turbo. Its going to cause a domino effect of things that need to be replaced.
 

ViR2

Supraniac
May 20, 2006
932
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Lithuania
www.hpaddict.eu
it depends on the turbo ant HP goal. If u're going no more then 350whp it's safe to put in a MHG, ARP's and lets say ct26 57trim, but above that point u'll need forged internals to be on the safe side ;)
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
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Hot and Humid, KY
A good running stock 7M with the head bolts torqued town right is good for 500 HP. Note that's with a stronger HG than stock and a different turbo ;). As long as you replace bearings, oil pump, and recondition the rods and pistons (if they're all good) you should be fine up to the 500 HP mark.