heater/vent doesn't work

[doom26464]

well I have had this problem for awhile. It all happened about a month ago when my heater/air vents stop blowing air. It just like died on me. Since fall is coming soon it starting to get colder. I will need my heater working. IT goes like this i can turn the heat on but there is no fan to blow it. I can feel the heat from the vents but there is no blowing of it. If i turn it too cold it does the same I can slightly feel it but once again there is no fan to blow it. What could be wrong??

could it be the fuse that has gone??(wich for some damn reason I can't find the fuse for the heater :1zhelp: )

mabye the fan motor blew???

and now my second problem. MY rear defrost hasn't worked since I bought the car. I have no idea what or where to start looking to figure out wtf is up with it.

Plz I need to get theses fixed while its still warm outside help me guys.

 

[KeithH]

If your fans do not function on any setting - high medium low - then the most likely culprit is the blower motor itself. Mine konked out on me earlier this year and I was too lazy to fix it so I had to drive through some of the 90+ days with no AC. I don't like 90+ days!

The motor is fairly spendy though - I think mine was something near $100 (AFTER my nice healthy discount).

There are three TORX screws holding the motor in place - located behind the glove box. One of them is tricky to get to but it is possible. Then the motor can be wedged out - remember that you are also bringing the fan cage out with it.

The motor does NOT come with a new cage so be careful not to damage the old cage. It can be reused.

Remove the cage from the old motor and install it on the new motor then reinstall the whole thing.

KeithH

 

[doom26464]

If your fans do not function on any setting - high medium low - then the most likely culprit is the blower motor itself. Mine konked out on me earlier this year and I was too lazy to fix it so I had to drive through some of the 90+ days with no AC. I don't like 90+ days!

The motor is fairly spendy though - I think mine was something near $100 (AFTER my nice healthy discount).

There are three TORX screws holding the motor in place - located behind the glove box. One of them is tricky to get to but it is possible. Then the motor can be wedged out - remember that you are also bringing the fan cage out with it.

The motor does NOT come with a new cage so be careful not to damage the old cage. It can be reused.

Remove the cage from the old motor and install it on the new motor then reinstall the whole thing.

KeithH

pics?

 

[T701jz]

I'm assuming my 87and the 90s have the same circuit diagram for the heater. So, try reseting the circuit breaker located at the passenger side kick panel. It's a round shape (black) with a hole in the middle. Use a tooth pick to poke through the hole to reset the breaker. I've trip that breaker several times when my a/c clutch was over loading. Hope you don't have to replace ur blower.

Quickest way also is to find out first if you have 12v coming in to the motor.

 

[doom26464]

I'm assuming my 87and the 90s have the same circuit diagram for the heater. So, try reseting the circuit breaker located at the passenger side kick panel. It's a round shape (black) with a hole in the middle. Use a tooth pick to poke through the hole to reset the breaker. I've trip that breaker several times when my a/c clutch was over loading. Hope you don't have to replace ur blower.

I'll give it a try.

 

[wulfstan]

Have you tried checking the fan blower resistor located under the glove compartment lower right corner. Looks a little rectangle with two screws on each side. On the two supra I've owned, this was the first to go. I know that Champion/ToyotaWorld has this part, so just ask Jeff Watson in our dealer's pages on the main site. I bellieve it's www.toyotaworld.com . Good luck to you.

 

[hottscennessey]

my blower motor went out on me last year, in the middle of winter, good luck.

 

[KeithH]

I tried replacing the resistor before learning that it would only affect certain fan speeds and not all of them.

You can do a quick easy check to make sure you are getting power to the fan motor. Pull out the underpanel under the glovebox and pop the harness open. Then you can check for power right at the motor.

You can't miss the location. It is the big roundish box with a metal plate at the bottom end.

 

[Adjuster]

Reading this, I agree it does not sound like the fan stopped working at a speed or two, (Resister pack) but just stopped.

I'd check the circut breaker in the right kickpanel, and the fuses for the system if you don't have power at the plug/harness.

Check to see if there is a aftermarket fan for this car. (Might be, and it's likely less money.) I had the fan on my Q45 die, we took it appart, and the brushes were wasted, and a bearing had started to spin causing drag and shaft mis-alignment, further causing problems with what was left of the brushes.

Nissan/Infinity wanted 190+ for the fan, but I found one at NAPA for 70.00 with a lifetime warrenty. (The fan motor was slightly different, but the mounting plate was perfect, and I had to wire up the plug to the harness on the car since they were different too. (No big deal, solder and heat shrink, and I was done, and saved over 100.00) Works perfect.

 

[doom26464]

thnx for all the great info guys but what about my rear defrost???? no one even took a crack at that one. :1zhelp:

 

[Supraholic]

do you have heated mirror ? if so, does the mirror warms up when you put the defogger ON ? they are in the same circuit..

 

[KeithH]

Can't help you on that one. My rear defroster is out as well. My mirrors still heat up when the defrost is on though so the problem is with the wiring somewhere - also did not see any problems with the wires on the glass.

My fix was to put window tint over the wires and not drive the car when I would need to use the defroster.

 

[Adjuster]

Check for shorts on your wires to the defroster. (Many times, they get bumped, or damaged, and are shorted out. You need to read resistance across the grid, from side to side. (Just use a ohm meter, and see if there is continuity, or resistance on the heater wires.)
Also you have a antenna built into your rear glass. (Cool to use if you don't want to use your power one... Or you need a stealthy antenna for a bearcat scanner for example.)
If you want to check your grid, you can apply 12v to it and see if it warms up. (Or find any broken bars...) Or you can check each bar with the voltmeter... (very tedious work, but you will find the faulty bars this way.) Other way, and the easy way IMHO, is to get it working, and then on a cool morning, turn it on, and see what bars are not working, Mark them with a grease pen on the OUTSIDE of the glass. Later you can go back with a repair kit and try to restore the broken area of the bar. If you do this right, it looks OK, if not, it looks like ass.

Good luck, and check your fuse. (Like the first thing to go out.)