Heater and AC not working

[GreenChevelleSS]

well you guys are prolly getting sick of me by now lol well heres some more questions for ya.
The heater doesnt work, I read the SOGI article about the VSV and it is bad. Read 816 ohms. I just bypassed it like the article said.

The AC doesnt work... The compressor never clicks on that I know of.

The blower motor sounds like crap and doesnt work on low speed setting and barely works on medium setting and sounds really bad on high but is blowing pretty good on high. Also where is the blower motor? and how do I get to it?

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Danny

 

[shaeff]

well you guys are prolly getting sick of me by now lol well heres some more questions for ya.
The heater doesnt work, I read the SOGI article about the VSV and it is bad. Read 816 ohms. I just bypassed it like the article said.

The AC doesnt work... The compressor never clicks on that I know of.

The blower motor sounds like crap and doesnt work on low speed setting and barely works on medium setting and sounds really bad on high but is blowing pretty good on high. Also where is the blower motor? and how do I get to it?

Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Danny

haha, never! did you open the heater valve so that coolant can flow into the heatercore? there's a plunger on the underside of the heatervalve, located on the firewall near the charcoal canister. push it up, and zip tie it there. see if you get heat then.

not sure about your AC. i removed my entire AC system.

if your car was sitting for awhile, you probably have leaves and crap built up in there. (i did after my car sat in the driveway for 8ish months) chances are, your blower motor resistor is dead. grab a flashlight, and look under your glovebox. behind it, you'll see a white box. there's a black piece screwed onto it with only one screw, and one connector with several wires. that's the blower motor resistor. pull it out (be careful, it's fragile) and either solder the resistors back together, or get a new OEM one for like $20 from champion toyota.

the blower motor isn't really that easily accessable. you could take out the glove box, and turn the selector switch to "inside air" (it's actually a diagram, but you get the point) so that the flapper door closes off the outside air duct, then (i cut out that stupid plastic screen) reach through the plastic screen to clean out the leaves and crap.

once the glove box is out, and the selector switch is depressed on inside air, you'll see where the blower motor is. it's on the far right side, inside the white box.

-shaeff

 

[GreenChevelleSS]

Well The blower Motor was good it just needed the bushing oiled, It sounds soo much better now.

Where would the leaves and crap be?

The resistor is burned out on the low...So Ill try soldering it back together.

Yea I had to open the heater valve but I just changed the vacume to pull it open instead of ZipTieing it

 

[shaeff]

the leaves would be in where the actual fan part is. i had lots in there...

-shaeff

 

[hottscennessey]

my blower motor went out on me, thats probably it.

 

[shaeff]

my blower motor went out on me, thats probably it.

he already stated that it was the blower resistor. USUALLY, it's NOT the blower fan. it's usually the resistor...

-shaeff

 

[GreenChevelleSS]

The resisitor was broken on the low side. The fan would work at medium and high but not low. When the blower motor was on it made a horrible noise so both were bad but the motor just needed some oil and the resistor needed fixing. Both are working great now...

BTW shaeff,
I couldnt get the solder to stick to the resisitor wires even after heating them up for a while, so I just twisted the 2 wires, where they broke, together and it works like its suppose to. It might be just a tad faster than stock but its still alot slower than medium...

 

[mrnickleye]

^^^^ I used a new wire. It was stainless safety wire from the motorcylce shop. I just curled it around like the others and soldered it in. Use resin core solder.:biglaugh: