to get the pistons to the desired temp to get those pin things in, whats the best way to do this? put them in a pan on the stove and heat it up? i searched and this or the oven seemed to be the best way to do it... any sugestions?
heat up pistons on stove?
- Thread starter loki2043
- Start date
i put mine in the oven and set the temp to around 250, dont want them to hot to handle
i put then in one at a time puttin on in just before i finished the other.
i also put my pins in the freezer all at the same time, but KEPT THEM IN ORDER i know you balenced your stuff, so dont mix any thing up.
also if you put the snap ring in the piston on one side, it makes it easier by not pusshing it all the way through.
there are arrows on the pistons and they MUST be facing the front of the engine. the piston pin is slightly offset on purpuse to help push the connecting rod over at top dead center. if you put them on / in back wards then you will have one ugly mess on your hands.
the rods dont matter as far as i know, but make sure the pistons are all the same way when installin into block.
i put then in one at a time puttin on in just before i finished the other.
i also put my pins in the freezer all at the same time, but KEPT THEM IN ORDER i know you balenced your stuff, so dont mix any thing up.
also if you put the snap ring in the piston on one side, it makes it easier by not pusshing it all the way through.
there are arrows on the pistons and they MUST be facing the front of the engine. the piston pin is slightly offset on purpuse to help push the connecting rod over at top dead center. if you put them on / in back wards then you will have one ugly mess on your hands.
the rods dont matter as far as i know, but make sure the pistons are all the same way when installin into block.
meh... i should have poped em in the freezer before i left for work... oh well.. ill do it when i get home and hope fore the best.
so when i put it in the oven do i want it in a pan submerged in water?
so when i put it in the oven do i want it in a pan submerged in water?
will the pins not fit with the rod and piston at room temp? WTF? this heat press stuff makes me wonder if you're using the right stuff.
they are not sapposed to fit at rm temp. read the tsrm, your have to heat the pistons up to 140 and then the pins will fit through.
my question was about the best way to heat them.
also, ive got coated pistons, 3 different coatings. one on top one on side and one on bottom.
my question was about the best way to heat them.
also, ive got coated pistons, 3 different coatings. one on top one on side and one on bottom.
yes some slide right in, but i would say thats a loose spec..
trsm does say to heat the pistons, they dont say to chill the pins but i found it alot easier to do both,
well sorry i wont be able to be there to help tonight tony!
trsm does say to heat the pistons, they dont say to chill the pins but i found it alot easier to do both,
well sorry i wont be able to be there to help tonight tony!
Why not use an oxy-acetelyne torch. Not super hot just a regular orange flame should do the job. Make sure to have good set of gloves to handle the parts though.
your talking about the rist pins fitting right? if you are since mine go right in is that going to be a problem?
loki2043 said:
For all I know you're done already but if not here's another opinion, Pimp has covered most of this.
Put the snap ring on one side put them on a tray or on the rack in the oven keeping them in order set the oven to what you like 150-200. Water would just boil,steam get your gloves wet and burn you. It's just not necessary imo, Aluminium has very good thermal conductivity.
Put the pins on another tray and put them in the freezer if you want. They will frost when they come out though:dunno: , be sure to lube them. I used ross pistons no heating was needed, so I haven't actually done this.
an hour should be enough time for things to reach temp. Unless your oven takes for ever to heat, in that case you may want to preheat.
Be sure you have the pistons on the correct way. The arrow points forward and the larger valve reliefs are on the intake side.
I assume your using stock rods of course. I used eagle rods and can't remember what side the lil oil squirter on the rod is on, but it should spray the thrust side of the bore. The notches on the big end rod bearing should be on the intake side I believe. I'm pretty sure about this info but you'll want to double check to be sure.
i dont like the water method cause it makes your parts wet right before you install them.
it takes just minutes for each piston to get warm enough to put the pins though with out freezin the pins, but feezing the pins gives you some extra time i belive,
honestly i had more problem putting it though my rod's then pistons, i hope i rememberd to tell him to lube those suckers up...
i lube my rings aswell although i have heard that is bad pratice.. though leak down and compression test say it doesn't hurt..
it takes just minutes for each piston to get warm enough to put the pins though with out freezin the pins, but feezing the pins gives you some extra time i belive,
honestly i had more problem putting it though my rod's then pistons, i hope i rememberd to tell him to lube those suckers up...
i lube my rings aswell although i have heard that is bad pratice.. though leak down and compression test say it doesn't hurt..
I notice this thread is confusing some people. Most (all?) aftermarket pistons the pin will just slide right in (floating wrist pin), you only need to do this for stock pistons.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudgeon_Pin_(Internal_Combustion_Engine)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gudgeon_Pin_(Internal_Combustion_Engine)
yeah I got stock coated pistons. we used the stove methood with hot water... we bitched a little but after an hour we finally got it done. my hand is still burnt
oww. we were smashing one in and it just would not go in until we found out we had it backwards lol.
so those are done and the next thing was getting the rod bolts loose.. the damn machine shop torqued emdown and I don't have a vise.. time to get a vice.
oww. we were smashing one in and it just would not go in until we found out we had it backwards lol.so those are done and the next thing was getting the rod bolts loose.. the damn machine shop torqued emdown and I don't have a vise.. time to get a vice.
E
emoo (not emo)
Guest
supra_supra said:
Its better to use something like an oven to get an evenly heated piston (especially for such small temperature increase, less than 200 degrees). Using a torch (especially oxyacet) theres more risk of making hot spots that can possibly create an un-even tempering. Its probably not a big risk but it can possibly compromise the break-in of a high performance motor .
emoo (not emo) said:
good first post, good point too, i think thats why toyota suggested boiling water.
I couldn't agree more. I cringed at the thought of someone making passes over a piston with an oxy-acetylene torch... Seems like they would have a beer in the other hand, and a cigarette hanging out of their mouth during the jobemoo (not emo) said:
Extremely good first post, welcome aboard Emoo. We need all the technical minds we can get.