could i just get a cosmetic head gasket and arp studs/bolts? i don't plan to pass 400hp ever. i know metal would be smarter, but my friend can only machine the head for free...
89supra7mgte;1562317 said:But an upgraded composite type with correct or updated torque spec should be good correct?
WillWorkFoBoost;1562788 said:Okay so I had a similar question. first of all I installed a hks mhg and arps and had the head planed, not the block. I know I should have done this now but didnt at the time. it held for a few months but seems to be leaking now... so which option would be more legitimate, throw a composite hg on it along with the arps, clean the viton off the mhg and copper spray it and see if it seals, or has anyone had good luck with the hks stopper as ive heard it has a layer of sealant so that stock block finish is fine? or obviously last resort would be remove block and machine it. same situation, not going for ridiculous power, just a good seal.
WillWorkFoBoost;1563014 said:yea so once again I was asking what would be the best option as stated above. I dont skimp on things though it is my fault because I never heard that I should machine the block until it was back together or else I would have. my fault for not researching. so, "which option would be more legitimate, throw a composite hg on it along with the arps, clean the viton off the mhg and copper spray it and see if it seals, or has anyone had good luck with the hks stopper as ive heard it has a layer of sealant so that stock block finish is fine? or obviously last resort would be remove block and machine it. same situation, not going for ridiculous power, just a good seal." not asking for someone to tell me what I did wrong.
WillWorkFoBoost;1563014 said:yea so once again I was asking what would be the best option as stated above. I dont skimp on things though it is my fault because I never heard that I should machine the block until it was back together or else I would have. my fault for not researching. so, "which option would be more legitimate, throw a composite hg on it along with the arps, clean the viton off the mhg and copper spray it and see if it seals, or has anyone had good luck with the hks stopper as ive heard it has a layer of sealant so that stock block finish is fine? or obviously last resort would be remove block and machine it. same situation, not going for ridiculous power, just a good seal." not asking for someone to tell me what I did wrong.
CyFi6;1563098 said:Theres a lot of factors... Keep in mind if your head has been machined and you use a stock head gasket, it better not have been machined much otherwise you are increasing your compression, increasing the chance of blowing it again.
And just because machining of the block deck costs $50-60 doesn't mean that is what you are paying to get it done. Not to mention, if you are paying $50 for a deck machine it will probably worse of a finish than it was to begin with. Its very hard to find a place that can machine it smooth enough. Then add the cost of a full bottom end rebuild with parts machine work gaskets seals etc and you have a huge project on your hand. If you machine a block it has to come apart, and you are just stupid if you put it all back together with the same parts. If pistons come out you need a hone and new rings minimum, but you will likely find your bores out of round or tapered which require you to go oversize, which requires all that machine work plus new pistons and rings. You need all new bearings (which btw cost about $15-$20 EACH from Toyota, that's x6 for rods and x7 for mains), if you use std bearings from a kit you will likely have clearances all over the place unless you are lucky. If you go with STD bearings you need everything machined (line hone/rods re-sized) to fit those bearings which are a different thickness than stock(even though they call them std). Once you have this all done, you need new gaskets and seals, probably a new timing belt, and money to pay for misc broken or worn out parts, not to mention you will need to get your block tanked or cleaned, and if its tanked any brass freeze plugs and oil pump shaft bearings need to be replaced.
As you can see its not as simple as getting the block machined for $50-$60 and having peace of mind of having it done right, because if you put it back together without touching a thing you are not doing it right.