bout to put a metal head gasket on my 7M. it's a 1.4mm from titan. i'm also using arp head studs. need to know how many ft/lbs to use? i've seen different ppl use different amounts.
head torque
- Thread starter guards_man79
- Start date
N
NDBoost
Guest
anything above 75 ft lbs, retorque after 500ish miles or 3-4 nice heat cycles.
Heat Cycle Being: Car warms up and then cools down totally.
Heat Cycle Being: Car warms up and then cools down totally.
I think my favorite torque specification comes from Dylan's How-To install new springs and struts.... HE called for a "Metric Crap-Ton" of force to be applied to the upper A-arm...
yes do the 85, then cycle, then retorque. Don't skip the retorque because it is "a pain in the ass to take everything back off." Its easier than pulling your motors and dropping a few more grand in the car...
yes do the 85, then cycle, then retorque. Don't skip the retorque because it is "a pain in the ass to take everything back off." Its easier than pulling your motors and dropping a few more grand in the car...
is titan a good HG? i have seen them and it looks the same as the HKS. and i cant see spending double for the HKS. i am planning on getting the 2.0mm HG and the titan one is way cheaper...
N
NDBoost
Guest
Bah, just remove the rivets. You have to drill out a rivet ont he HKS as well if you've shaved the block.
Sounds like the rest of the crew has the torque covered.
Sounds like the rest of the crew has the torque covered.
It's only one (1) rivet and you can use a pair of side cutters to remove it this saves any chance of slipping and damaging the Fluorine Rubber coating on the Gasket.....
ARP Bolts/Studs have a torque setting they are suppose to go to if you go over that then they are trashed. The Studs that you got should have the info with them on what to torque them to.
Go by ARP specs not just whatever sounds good.
Go by ARP specs not just whatever sounds good.
Well I guess I'm just a fucking idiot then I'll leave now.........:3d_frown:rumptis said:
Please ignore anything and everything I post.
N
NDBoost
Guest
:nuts: :weak: :dunno:rumptis said:
wrong on so many levels, you ruin the studs by not following the specs? haah ahem.. goto 85-95 ftlbs on arp molly lube and your Good to go. I personally went with HKS MHG didnt deck block(regret it) and i didnt drill out the rivet (didnt know i had to).
No BHG yet, but i do have RK
I contacted ARP when installing my MHG and ARP studs. The ARP torque specs for the studs are 80 lb/ft. That is what I torqued mine to. However going above that a little won't hurt.
My mechanic told me it is not necessary to retorque after using the studs with a MHG. He is very reputable and only works on imports. I have about 700 miles on the car since the installation of the MHG. Reading these posts I was just wondering if this is something I should do?? If so why would he tell me this?
My mechanic told me it is not necessary to retorque after using the studs with a MHG. He is very reputable and only works on imports. I have about 700 miles on the car since the installation of the MHG. Reading these posts I was just wondering if this is something I should do?? If so why would he tell me this?
N
NDBoost
Guest
because its true, but what does it hurt to spend 30min to re-check for safety sakeMKIIITrbo89 said:
It doesn't hurt at all to recheck them or anything for that matter, but over tightening will stretch the bolts and they will not hold correctly, if you do some research you will find this to be true.
rumptis, ARP hardware has been tested and used successfully at over 125 foot pounds of torque. You'll deform the head before you snap their bolts or studs.
That said, anything around 80 foot pounds should be more than sufficient for the average engine builder. If you are building a 700hp monster, chances are you already know what kind of torques you want to use.
That said, anything around 80 foot pounds should be more than sufficient for the average engine builder. If you are building a 700hp monster, chances are you already know what kind of torques you want to use.