head bolt tq and timing ?'s

[JDM 1JZ]

just wondering what some of you guys are tq'ing to. I am using a 2mm cometic gasket and arp studs. Im boosting 20lbs on an upgrade, and I cant really find anything on how to do timing on our cars. i searched the tsrm but i couldnt really find anything helpful except how to check itwhen its already set. how to you actually set it. i know the lines on the cam gears face up with the little grove on the back plate. what about the crank, and the cam poisiton sensor and oil pump. thanks in advance

 

[pimptrizkit]

set crank to 0* btdc piston one and six should be at top dead center, if your came gears are off, rotate another 360* the pistons one and six should be at top dead center, and and cams should have knotches up by now.

losen the belt tensioner and push clear to other aide, against spring tension. re-tighten tension nut.

using tow hands one on each cam gear, pull the belt towards you and slide them off the cams.
to do that the other way, with the belt off, set cams to knotchs and set crank to 0* and your set. i did notice the last belt i installed seemed to be a bit harder then other belts i have installed just due to the fact it had leather in the belt. and the rest seemed to be a nylon /rubber design.

for the cps, if yo pulled that out, yo uwould notice on the gear, there is a pin that goes through it, and then on one side you would notice there is a drilled hole, this hole, needs to alight slightly before the notch you see on the end of the cps spool, slightly on the right side, and when you insert the cps, it's easier to do so with the valve cover off, so you can watch if the hole lines up agains tthe cam gear, it should be right underneith the endge of the came or on the back endge if looking from the front of the motor back..

oh, and while installed the timiing belt, poull up wards assuing that the belt has sat in to the crank gear. run up the left side of the motor, (non tensioner side) and pull tight over intake cam, but dont have the belt fully covering the gear, i have found it's easier to instal if you just rest 5-10% of the belt width onto the gear, then on the thermo side of the exhaust gear, attempt to slide onto that pully,
once you have the belt on, center the belt and make sur eit doesn't rub on the timming cover. now release the tensioner and allow spring to pull belt tight,

now rotate the motor, usin a 19mm and a 1/2inch drive, go clockwise, 2 full 0*passes, so start on 0*, go around once, and then go around one more time. doing this, will let you knwo if your cams are going to geek there timming, and also tightens the belt now tighten the tensioner nut.

on the long side of the cam belt, twist and make sure the belt does not twist past 90* not to 90* belt is to tight and can break and be nosy. goes past 90* and can jump teeth ruin the belt..

oh ps, i take my studs with moly lube down to 90ftbls i think the standard is 77 and with oil it's 88, and i think my torque wrench is a bit cheap so if it's 5 pounds off it's not that bad and im doing about 85ftbls. and so on...

 

[johnathan1]

Wow^^ Nice post, but I think it's a little conflooooosing, if you've never done it before. So let me sum it up.

1. Align marks on cams with marks on backing plate.
2. Set crank to the 0* position.
3. Slide belt on, and loosen tensioner bolt, let spring apply tension, tighten back down.
4. CPS: Align raised mark on gear with drilled (concave) mark on housing. Slide CPS into head, with the bolt hole in the head aligned with the center of the CPS flange. Tighten down bolt.
5. Timing is now set.
6. To set timing baseline: With engine running, jumper diag box, and while using a timing light, loosen CPS mounting bolt, rotate the CPS counter-clockwise, until the the light flashes on the 10* mark, tighten down CPS bolt.

Done.

As for the ARP studs...My set came with instructions that said 80ft/lbs with moly lube, and 1xxft/lbs with 10W-40 motor oil.

 

[JDM 1JZ]

thanks, seems pretty straight forward, are there any notches i should be looking for also when im at tdc? any notches on the crank gear and the backplate? i know about the ones on the cam gears and the notches. Any helpful tips on doing a hg, reconmended spray? and i know on some cars people put a little silicone down to cover the cracks between the head and the timing plate fi you know what im talking about? is this the case with our cars?

 

[johnathan1]

There is a notch on the crank pulley that should be aligned with the 0* mark on the timing cover when at TDC.

If the headgasket is new, then no sealer is required, in fact, it will do more damage than good. If the head gasket has been used, then all o the old Viton coating must be removed, the gasket thoroughly cleaned, and coated with either Permatex Brake Quiet, or Copper Silicon Spray.

Silicon or RTV does need to be put in between the head and the block, right at the front of the motor, just behind the timing belt case, and just in front of the head gasket.

 

[jdub]

As for the ARP studs...My set came with instructions that said 80ft/lbs with moly lube, and 1xxft/lbs with 10W-40 motor oil.

This is the correct ARP spec for studs...it's 105 ft/lbs if you use oil.

There is a notch on the crank pulley that should be aligned with the 0* mark on the timing cover when at TDC.

If the headgasket is new, then no sealer is required, in fact, it will do more damage than good. If the head gasket has been used, then all o the old Viton coating must be removed, the gasket thoroughly cleaned, and coated with either Permatex Brake Quiet, or Copper Silicon Spray.

Silicon or RTV does need to be put in between the head and the block, right at the front of the motor, just behind the timing belt case, and just in front of the head gasket.

Dead on! Only thing to add is the front plate (big cast aluminum piece w/ the water pump housing) has to be machined when the block is decked. If it's not, it will be higher than the block surface and will not allow the head to torque down for the HG seal. The RTV needs to go along the top of the front plate (where it was machined)...the RTV is there to prevent an oil leak.

 

[JDM 1JZ]

so my head gaskets new, i dont need to use any silicone at the front of the motor between the bloock and timing case?

 

[suprasport91]

you should

 

[johnathan1]

Use silicone (RTV) between the head and block, right at the front, just two dabs right in front of the head gasket.

You do not need to coat the head gasket with any sealant.

 

[SupraDread]

Word to the wise.

When setting your cam timing u should pay attention to the cam marks after u release the tensioner, sometimes it will pull the cam marks back one notch, so u might have to set the marks one notch past the cam timing marks in order to get the marks lined up perfectly at the 12 o'clock position.

 

[JDM 1JZ]

thanks for all the info guys, i see where the 2 dabs go haha, im assuming covering the 2 breaks at the front of the motor where the block ends and the timing plate thing is