2jzge stock block with Aussie and 389whp soon to be on e85 max goal is 600ish.
Anyways the OEM one failed. Didn't know this until my water pump started leaking so anyways there are so many options to go with ROSS,ATI,FLUIDAMPR,and a solid alum which is garbage.
What I have read is the OEM is fine for daily driving and life under 7500k and 700ish HP and lower.
The ati is 15% overdriven and requires a smaller belt? I would think if they made the pulley bigger(overdriven) that this would need a bigger belt? Ati may need machining to fit?
Fluiddampr is same pulley dia. As stock so uses the same belt.and uses fluid vs anti which is rubber bands. And ati is rebuildable.
Ross seems common with aussie's don't know a lot.
As of right now the OEM looks mighty good but I can get a ati today in my hands for $340 were as OEM is $330 maybe $300 if I can haggle parts and service. But I won't have it for 2 days. But the OEM doesn't need a special belt or special tool to remove. So is the ati truly better that stock Toyota enginered part?
Anyways the OEM one failed. Didn't know this until my water pump started leaking so anyways there are so many options to go with ROSS,ATI,FLUIDAMPR,and a solid alum which is garbage.
What I have read is the OEM is fine for daily driving and life under 7500k and 700ish HP and lower.
The ati is 15% overdriven and requires a smaller belt? I would think if they made the pulley bigger(overdriven) that this would need a bigger belt? Ati may need machining to fit?
Fluiddampr is same pulley dia. As stock so uses the same belt.and uses fluid vs anti which is rubber bands. And ati is rebuildable.
Ross seems common with aussie's don't know a lot.
As of right now the OEM looks mighty good but I can get a ati today in my hands for $340 were as OEM is $330 maybe $300 if I can haggle parts and service. But I won't have it for 2 days. But the OEM doesn't need a special belt or special tool to remove. So is the ati truly better that stock Toyota enginered part?