hard start, low idle, then it's fine?

reincaster

New Member
Dec 25, 2009
68
0
0
Guam
Usually I encounter threads on rough idle after warming up, or rough idle in the first place, but this is weird, and I'm not sure where to start.

When the car is cold, it takes about 15-20 seconds of cranking to get it started. and when it does stay alive, it only idles at 250-300 rpm. Giving it throttle bogs it out and sometimes dies. wait for about 30 seconds and the car smooths out and idles at about 1000 and goes down once the car warms up. After that, it's great!

I checked the CSI switch, and it checks out. The afm doesn't meets spec according to tsrm, but no codes are thrown for that. The only code is a code 22, water coolant temp, but would that affect starting? the tabs on the coolant sensor are broken off, and the parts store doesn't have any in stock, so I'm waiting for it in the mail, along with a working afm.

i'm thinking it has something to do with fuel in that starting sequence, and cold start injector checks out, like the switch.
 

nick88

JayHall's Hero
May 10, 2009
794
0
0
Des Moines, Iowa, United States
reincaster;1513979 said:
Usually I encounter threads on rough idle after warming up, or rough idle in the first place, but this is weird, and I'm not sure where to start.

When the car is cold, it takes about 15-20 seconds of cranking to get it started. and when it does stay alive, it only idles at 250-300 rpm. Giving it throttle bogs it out and sometimes dies. wait for about 30 seconds and the car smooths out and idles at about 1000 and goes down once the car warms up. After that, it's great!

I checked the CSI switch, and it checks out. The afm doesn't meets spec according to tsrm, but no codes are thrown for that. The only code is a code 22, water coolant temp, but would that affect starting? the tabs on the coolant sensor are broken off, and the parts store doesn't have any in stock, so I'm waiting for it in the mail, along with a working afm.

i'm thinking it has something to do with fuel in that starting sequence, and cold start injector checks out, like the switch.

That coolant sensor is what activates teh cold start switch, and injector, with it broken the ecu is in limp mode and always thinks that the motor is warmed up and doesn't richen up for cold starts, wait for the sensor and it will be running properly.
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
6,152
32
48
40
MA, 01440
Mine behaves the same way, except it's done on purpose. I unplugged my CSI Time Switch on the Thermo Housing.
I feel it's beneficial to the long term well being of the engine, it cranks for a little longer, giving it extra time to circulate oil through the system, and when it fires up, it kind of rolls slowly to life, instead of bursting to life.

If this made any sense at all...
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
0
0
Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Yes.

The code 22 is caused by a problem with the EFI coolant sensor/circuit which is not the same one that operates the temp gage. Neither actuate the cold start switch or cold start injector as those comprise an autonomous system. The rest of the diagnosis is correct: the engine is lacking cold start and warm up enrichment because of the code 22.

supra90turbo;1514000 said:
...I unplugged my CSI Time Switch on the Thermo Housing. I feel it's beneficial to the long term well being of the engine...

How's that?
 

reincaster

New Member
Dec 25, 2009
68
0
0
Guam
Hmm, makes sense, good info here!

So while the sensor itself does not activate the csi switch, the switch is dependent on the signal from the switch? Hopefully that little sensor is all I need!
 

reincaster

New Member
Dec 25, 2009
68
0
0
Guam
changed the sensor, starts better, but now when I let off the throttle after revving it in neutral, or after pushing in the clutch after keeping at 3000 or so rpms, the idle drops real low, ike 500, bogs and pops sometimes, and then comes back to regular idle.