Gotta change the clutch

ts_MKIII

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Aug 8, 2005
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Well quick ?. ive noticed even beofre that ive had to give a little more gas to get into fitst gear, and it was a little jumpy if i didnt ride it slightly when changing gears.

No i just want to mak shure that it is the CLUTCH so i do it right the first time.

What happened is i can drive it, but i have to drive very sslow, if i try to acceralte, all that happenes is that my rpms increase but no i dont get any speed increase.. thats the clutch right?
Well the clutch stareted to really slip earlier today, so now i gotta change it.

Now its been a while since ive chenge a clutch on thsi car with out taking out the motor so im gonna need a little help.

Haha ive changed the clutch when im sawpping a motor..

ive done it like 3 times.


Thanks in advance i really would like to chane it tomorow morning.,. and bee done by that after nooon.


Possible??
 
Last edited:

NATAN666

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Apr 4, 2005
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Remove the shifter.
you'll need a 14mm socket (and possibly a wrench) a ratchet and a 3 foot drive extension (to reach over the tranny while its lowered from the back.
get a jack, any good floor jack will do. support the weight of the transmission with the jack, unbolt the 4 transmission crossmember to chassis bolts, lower the tranny (watch for some fluid leaking out and the drivshaft might slip out and bonk you on the head. sometimes its easier to unbolt the driveshaft's center carrier bearing and lower the driveshaft completely.

once the transmission is lowered and supported by the jack, disconnect all wiring and remove the slave cylinder. unbolt the starter and bellhousing to engine bolts. there are 4 going from engine to bellhousing, 4 going from bellhousing to lower support wings, and two going to the starter. two bolts on the very top of the bellhousing on each side. the starter bolts are the next two bolts dwon from there on the driver's side. then the "middle" bolt then one that goes in from the other direction going from the wings to the bellhousing, and another.

the bolts are mirrored on each side save for the starter. to get the starter bolts off you may need a wrench to hold the nuts still if you have a pre-89 starter.
there are ten bolts total

once you have everything unhooked and unbolted, take off the inspection cover (the little black panel on the driver's side) and remove the clutch fork. its a little hard to wiggle it out but it just pops out dont be shy to try. now comes the tough part. its pretty hard to wrestle the transmission loose. youll need a friend. you guys will just need to rock back and forth slightly while pulling back and down and may even need to use a prybar or a long screwdriver to pry ut off.

once you get the transmission out its pretty straight forward.
 

souprat

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Mar 30, 2005
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well shure, if you floor it and you motor revs and you dont speed up then your clutch is slipping. along with what NATAN666 said above there is a good write up on pulling the tranny in the referance section, titled something like "tranny removal in 20 steps". with a friend its possible to pull the tranny out and put it back in in a day, personally i pull it out in a day and put it back in the next, leave yourself some time. AND REPLACE YOUR REAR MAIN SEAL WHILE YOU ARE THERE! its alotta pain and hassle when the damn thing blows and shoots oil all over your brand new clutch so you can pull the trany for the second time in 4 months to replace this $15 part. go ahead, ask me how i know how much that sucks. other things you can replace as a precaution while you have the transmission out:

transmission front/rear main seal

EGR cooler gasket

that coolant hose above the starter that goes into the firewall next to the master cylender

pressure plate bolts

flywheel bolts

good luck
 

NATAN666

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i proabbly should have replaced my seals heh.. but i figure im gonna be pullin the motor next fall for a full build so meh... ill take my chances.
 

ts_MKIII

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Aug 8, 2005
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well same thingy with me, my supra is my daily as well, so ill be doing all that wen i pull the motor for a full build etc, all the ups, turbo manifold, pistons MHG all that.
 

NATAN666

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Apr 4, 2005
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did our advice help or you need anything more? basically, just start working your ass off and you should be able to get it done in one day, although i agree with the other guy, get it out and the clutch instealld (on the transmission i might add, do not put the clutch and pressure plate on the flywheel before you install it, slide the pressure plate assembly onto the input shaft of the tranny, then put the trasnny up and in position, then bolt the pressure plarte to the flywheel or youll never have room to clear the throw out bearing.
 

billspreston01

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Jun 2, 2005
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WAAAIIIITT!!!! haha

after 3k miles on my clutch it started slipping. I thought it was the clutch but I was wrong. Check these 4 things before you go tearing into it

Pedal height and freeplay
master cylinder
slave cylinder
clutch fluid (bleed the line and fill)

I was slipping under boost in all gears, I put a new slave clyinder in it and it still slipped, I put a new master in, bled the line, adjusted the height and now I'm doing burnouts dropping the clutch at 3k.
 

ts_MKIII

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Aug 8, 2005
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SO i went to change the clutch when we got half way thru and we realized that niether of our hands could get to the the top 2 bolts of the tranny, and the top starter bOLT what do we DO!?
 

souprat

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Mar 30, 2005
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those are always the hardest. i have some pretty skinny arms and i can just bairly get my fingertips to those bolts. you can put a floor jack under the front of the engine and tip the whole engine and transmission assembaly back. then you get 3 feet of extentions, go back to the output of the tranny, and reach all the way from the tranny output along the top of the trans to the top starter and top bellhousing bolts. tipping the engine helps alot, just be carful how much you tip it. and when i say 3 feet of extentions i mean 3 feet. good luck.