general rebuild questions, crank scoring, etc.

[Clip]

in the middle of rebuilding my GE and i've run into a few questions.

1. using standard bearings, the manual says to match bearing numbers to the numbers on the crank and the block. am i able to order specifically numbered bearings to make a full set, or do i just order a full set of bearings and hope i get lucky?

2. i think i'll be able to get by without getting the head machined if i use razors and brake cleaner to get it as smooth as possible. it feels smoother than it looks pic:

can i get by with this, using a composite head gasket and arp studs?

3. my crank is slightly scored on the fifth journal, like this:

i can feel it with my fingernail and the bearing had a noticeable groove cut into it. will i have to get this machined, or will i be ok using fresh bearings?

 

[Facime]

Im not an expert on internals but let me offer this advise at least. Use a little wd40 and spray down your cylinder walls when the block is sitting around like that. It will inhibit the surface rust. Also if you get a big hefty trash bag, wrap up the block even while it sits on the stand. It will further inhibit moisture and keep dust out as well. I clean build is a successful one.


As for the crank scoring, get that turned or you will shorten the life of the rebuild. I personally would also have that block decked.

 

[CyFi6]

I dont see why you would not get both the block and the head machined if you have everything bare and apart, that is the hardest part. Even though it is a GE and a stock build, i would personally get everything machined as its not all that expensive and will further aid to making the engine stronger and more reliable/longer lasting.

 

[Clip]

Im not an expert on internals but let me offer this advise at least. Use a little wd40 and spray down your cylinder walls when the block is sitting around like that. It will inhibit the surface rust. Also if you get a big hefty trash bag, wrap up the block even while it sits on the stand. It will further inhibit moisture and keep dust out as well. I clean build is a successful one.


As for the crank scoring, get that turned or you will shorten the life of the rebuild. I personally would also have that block decked.

already sprayed it down with wd40 since i noticed it was rusting. thanks for the advice guys.

i've gotta get the front cover machined with the block, correct?

I dont see why you would not get both the block and the head machined if you have everything bare and apart, that is the hardest part. Even though it is a GE and a stock build, i would personally get everything machined as its not all that expensive and will further aid to making the engine stronger and more reliable/longer lasting.

i've got a rebuilt head on the way, ill call the machine shop and see what they say.

 

[7MsuprO]

Yup, make sure you machine the front cover with the block!

 

[sneakypete]

as far as the rebuild head, have a machinist measure to see how much it has been cut. i once bought a rebuilt head and it turned out that it was cut beyond toyotas specs and shouldnt have been used. and another time i bought a re manufactured motor where the block was overbored to the max and the head that came with it was also machined too much. thats why i would get it checked out
ill never buy either again
just my .02
-pete

 

[TroyC]

I dont see why you would not get both the block and the head machined if you have everything bare and apart, that is the hardest part. Even though it is a GE and a stock build, i would personally get everything machined as its not all that expensive and will further aid to making the engine stronger and more reliable/longer lasting.

I agree.

Although, when I did my HG a few years ago on my GTE, I used a stock HG without doing any machine work to the block and it held fine. But since you already have the block out, there's no reason why you shouldn't have it machined. You'll feel better about it in the long run. :icon_bigg

 

[Rennat]

we thought we could get away with not cutting the crank on a rebuild, started it up, rod knock. for the $85 it cost to cut the crank, it cost us over $200+ and not to mention we had to repull the engine and trans.

dont cut corners, do it the right way the first time.