Since you're not electrically inclined I'll try and keep it simple.
As IJ pointed out, it's tough to get 18 volts in a 14 volt system so you likely have a meter issue. And as Shaeff said, the FP jumper wire will get hot. It's because the connector only allows the use of a small wire and it's why something like a paper clip works best. The jumper getting hot proves the wiring to the pump is OK but doesn't nesscesarily prove the pump is running. In fact, if it gets hot too quickly it may indicate the pump is stalled or restricted.
Put you multimeter across the battery for a quick check...see if you get 12 volts. Then, if the meter measures DC current (most do), set it to a range above 6 amps and use it in place of the FP jumper. A healthy FP in an unrestricted system will draw between 4 and 6 amps. (If your meter can't measure that high don't try this or you'll blow the fuse inside the meter). This is better and easier than measuring across the FP terminals for voltage, something that doesn't tell you anything about the pump other than it's receiving power.
While the pump is running a quick way to check for fuel pressure is to look at the small bolt in the center of the cover on the fuel dampener on the fuel rail. If fuel pressure exists the bolt will "stand up" in the cover.
On a turbo car, when you turn the key to start the FP should run. The ignition switch supplies power to the FP relay (called the "circuit opening relay or COR") while the starter supplies a signal (STA) to the ecu. The ecu sees the STA signal and the signal coming from the CPS and realizes the engine is being cranked. (It's a bit more complicated than this but I'm keeping it simple).
The ecu then sends a signal to the COR to keep the FP on when you release the key after the engine starts. It's the same on a N/A car except the COR is kept on by a switch inside the AFM. The metering plate moves with airflow and hits this switch, keeping the COR (and FP) alive as long as the engine is sucking air. The ecu must have a way to shut the FP off when the engine isn't running (say in the event of an accident) and these two methods are how it's accomplished.
Try starting the car with the jumper in there so as to bypass the COR or AFM switch. Lastly, you could give the engine a shot of starting fluid to confim you have spark and that it's really a fuel problem. Since it wants to fire it sounds like you have spark though. Whether that spark is occuring at the correct time is another matter.
