Finally decided to replace my fuel filter on my 89 7mgte. Doesnt look like its ever been done with this car. Any precautions I should take before doing this with this car? Can anyone post a pic what theirs looks like once its on. Thanks.
Fuel Filter
- Thread starter xXxICExXx
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Its a major pain in the arse. Its right by the differential.
You might as well drop your gas tank and put in a WALBRO or something.
:icon_mrgr
If you do the tank as well it doesn't hurt to have a friend or a floor jack or something.
You might as well drop your gas tank and put in a WALBRO or something.
:icon_mrgr
If you do the tank as well it doesn't hurt to have a friend or a floor jack or something.
it doesnt take very long and its pretty easy. Me and Hellslegion did his just awhile ago, should take around an hour if you drop the tank.
xXxICExXx said:
Idealsupra did my walbro. You can drop the tank by yourself he did. Its putting it back with no help thats a bit of a pain. Only thing I can tell you about the fuel filter if its never been out, it may be a pain to break it loose, get something to spray on there to help loosen it.
I still think you should drop the tank.
Good luck!
Get a jack to hold the tank. If you have a motorccle jack or an ATV jack that would be ideal. It isnt very hard. Just time consuming
Dropped the tank myself, not once, twice, but 3 times. it's real easy, do it like this: remove gas cap. Next, find the 3/8" pipe plug (just shove a 3/8" extension into it) and remove it. Place a bucket under there to catch the gas, which you can use as a parts washer. Third (i think), get that same ratchet, a long (6-10", depending on how high you have the rear of the car jacked up and secured) extension, and a 17mm deep socket. remove the two strap nuts and support the tank with a floor jack at this time. Next you'll need a 19mm and 14mm wrenches. hold the smaller hex w/the 14, and try to turn the 19mm hex. It should crack loose if you have any kind of arm strength. Next remove the spring clamps that hold the return line (larger of the two) and EVAP line to the tank. SLOWLY (and I can't stress that enough) let the tank down, after removing a series of 10mm bolts that hold the (useless) plastic shield on. replace if you want to, i leave mine off. now, continue letting the tank down and you'll see two connectors. one is a 4-pin connector that goes to the pump. the other is a 2-pin connector that goes to the level sending unit. they have release tabs, good luck releasing them. if you use a calibrated tug on them, they'll come loose. Now continue dropping the tank and pull the jack out from underneath with the tank on it. The filter, like the previous posters have said, is on the rear subframe (IIRC) and is now easily accessed. You should see how it comes off. Reassembly can be explained in another post, as this is the longest post I have personally made on SM. Otherwise, it's the reverse of removal, except you'll want a buddy to help guide the filler neck into its hole. Tilting the tank up slightly to the passenger side while you lift up on the jack will help this process. Hope this very winded reply post helps.
or you could just pop the hatch lift the carpet and wood. and pull off the cover with three screws in it. then pull the connectors off. its much easier like that :biglaugh:
Just be careful that you don't twist and crimp the fuel lines when you try to break the fittings. Ask me how I know.....
Very true. never thought of "the cover". BTW, while you have your tank down, check the contacts on the sending unit. Go ahead and get a 3 for 1 
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I spent 5 hours under the car and didnt get passed the first screw. I used WD-40 to loosen it up and eliminate the rust but to no avail. Of course after 5 hours of trying the bolt is stripped. I'm gonna buy a pair of really small vise grips tomorrow and clamp that on to torque it off, should work.
dropping the tank is not a move for novices. If it is empty it might go by smoothly, but if it is full of fuel it will be a pain in the ass for you. I did it a long time ago when I first got the car and the stock fuel pump sucked. I replaced it with a walbro, but it definitely sucked like hell doing it. Just take your time and use a jack like the rest said and it might go ok
im gonan pay a shop to do my fuel pump (a reputable shop which my dad has been goign ot for 30+ years) and fuel filter. forget doing it myself!
I'm at best, an average DIYer. I dropped/installed the tank, replaced the pump, and fuel filter by myself. I dropped it with 5 gallons of gas in there. Use a jack to remove/install. It was not very hard. xXxICExXx, u gotta use PB Blaster, not WD40. That's the first thing I learned while I was searching here before attempting the work. U also need a 14mm flare nut. Don't use regular wrenches. The filter came out relatively easy, but I did break the line that goes to the pump. I then needed a new fuel pump bracket assembly, (unless you go SS), but if u break the line going under the car, u'll need new ones, or again go SS. If u've successfully worked on your engine before, and don't strip bolts frequently, you should be okay, but these cars are very old, and many parts have corroded. An expert I know had to rip his lines to get the fuel filter free. Use PB Blaster, work carefully, and sensibly. IF u get frustrated, step back, take a break, and try it again. Just my thoughts. good luck!
SupraShy
SupraShy
thats weird, it took me 20 minutes. no tank dropping just some wrenching, slip out slip in, and tighten...
I just dropped the tank for the first time yesterday. Put in a new walbro and new filter. It was quite a bit easier than I had expected, but I also looked like I had been on a mining expedition after I was done. Its not that difficult of a task and was very satisfying to know I had done it myself. My wallet can appreciate that, and I have peace of mind knowing it was done right.
I am not messing around with this thing a second longer. I'm going to buy a fuel line crimping kit and tomorrow morning im just cutting the line to get it off. I have boughten all the best rusted bolt removing solvents i can find and it wont move. The rust is so bad its basically welded itself on. Im just gonna cut the line and drop the whole thing out and stick the filter in a vise and work from there. Can't get any leverage laying down working like a monkey around the diff.
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