Fix for dripping differential

[3p141592654]

I have been having a differential gear oil leak from my left oil seal. I replaced the seal twice, the second time being very careful to put it in straight but it still leaked.

So, I pulled the half shaft out once again and took a good look at it. It had a barely perceptible groove in it where the seal lip contacts the shaft. I had noticed it before, but I couldn't believe it could make a difference since it was so small.

Since replacing the seal wasn't working, I decide the groove had to be the problem. A new half shaft is $160 from Champion, so I decided to try something simpler first.

I measured the seal diameter, and found a washer at McMaster that was just a bit smaller and 1.2mm thick. I put the washer in the differential, and then put the seal on top. This pushed the seal lip out 1.2 mm onto a fresh part of the halfshaft. There is still plenty of clearance for the seal to fit, since it sits deeply recessed into the differential case. The washer is about as perfect a fit as you could imagine. If I was making a custom one I doubt the dimensions would be any different.

Problem solved. No more drips.

Mcmaster part: 3088A463 STEEL SHIM, W/O INTERNAL NOTCH, .047" THK, 2" ID, 2-3/4" OD

 

[kabanimk3supra]

nice work, i need to try that.

 

[Asterix]

Great idea!

Other options from McMaster are:
98126A724 2"ID 2-3/4"OD 0.048" thk, 18-8 stainless
97022A819 2"ID 2-3/4"OD 0.045" thk, 316 stainless
98089A962 55mmID 68mmOD 1mm thk, 18-8 stainless
98055A450 55mmID 68mmOD 1mm thk, spring steel

I'm going to get the 316 stainless ones, as they're slightly cheaper than 3088A463.

 

[IJ.]

Nice save for a very frustrating problem!!

I do something similar for rear mains when ever I build an Engine, I take a 1mm cut off the Seal housing where it mates to the block moving the seal back on the crank to virgin steel

Only "issue" I have with your mod is the material outside the seal may not be pristine if too thick a washer is used!

 

[Nyborg]

Just changed out my seals but only put the seals in until they were flush on the outer edge because that's where the oe ones were.I noticed a slot in the casing that looked like an oil return maybe and was afraid to block it with the seal just in case.Did i i screw up and should have driven the seals in until they bottomed out?

 

[Asterix]

Seems to me, Nyborg, that if your new seals aren't leaking, you're done. If they start leaking again, push the seal in one millimeter for the same effect.

 

[3p141592654]

Mine have run trouble free for 6 years now. I don't think there is any issue with lubrication. The point of making sure the new wipe area is pristine is important. There is a dust shield that helps. Mine were very clean, but I live in a benign climate.