Finally installed the catch can, also pic of the new car (HQ pics)

IwantMKIII

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First, the new car all together :) Took two weeks to transfer everything into form the other car with help from GaboonViper85. Details in my build thread. This is my 3rd chassis with this engine/setup :aigo:

cimg0561.jpg


Now for the Catch install. I used dual JEGS oil separators. Two because they were only 3/8" input/output and the PCV is 5/8" at its largest, i didn't want to choke it. Yes i am aware i don't have all the clamps on yet. Didn't have enough. BTW, Advance now offers T-bolt style mini clamps!! you can see them on the oil separators!

Took about 3.5 hrs to do at advance auto parking lot lol! :aigo:

The return line is not readily viewable. It is run along the side parallel with the steering column and back up around the intake plenum.

cimg0557.jpg


Dual oil separators use 5 micron filters

cimg0558.jpg


I capped off the stock inputs on the hard line as they are no longer needed. Also there needs to be a slight arc on the passenger side soft line from the valve cover to prevent interference with the throttle linkage.

cimg0559t.jpg


To space the original inputs on the hardline to not interfere with the hose from the valve covers properly i had to displace the hardline some. I used a lug nut just shy of 1 inch and a 30 MM M8x1.25 bolt.

cimg0560c.jpg
 

jdub

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One question: The T you have between the hardline and the TB, does it route over to the PS reservoir side of the catch cans?
(looks like it does)
 

shaeff

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I see you still have the cap on your alternator stud, but for the love of your car, wrap that braided fuel return hose in a split rubber sheath (a hose split down the middle) and secure it with zip ties. That's wicked close to the alt. stud! (I'll give you one guess what happens when it grounds out...)

That bit of tape isn't enough.
 

jdub

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shaeff;1360695 said:
I see you still have the cap on your alternator stud, but for the love of your car, wrap that braided fuel return hose in a split rubber sheath (a hose split down the middle) and secure it with zip ties. That's wicked close to the alt. stud! (I'll give you one guess what happens when it grounds out...)

That bit of tape isn't enough.

LOL...took the words right out of my mouth Chris!
Isn't burning up one motor enough ;)


IJ.;1360696 said:
WTF is going on with the custom rad brackets?

He doesn't like that radiator and wants to make it leak ;)
 

IwantMKIII

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Jdub - Not sure which T you mean. There is one T rejoined the two catch cans and one T at the hardline to connect in with the TB as well. You can see both of them by enlarging the picture.

Shaeff - I know, i've been looking for a good insulator other than hose. I'm trying to find some foam insulator like on an AC compressor.

IJ - long story. I'm about to put up another thread and you'll see why. But long story short a Mishimoto blew out and i got a direct drop in replacement but didn't have stock mounts at the time. They work for now and is rather secure but still trying to get a hold of my stock ones but i have to have someone find them first and ship them :/
 

IwantMKIII

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And for the record it does not look like it but there is well over an inch of space with that SS line and alt contact. I check it OFTEN until i can find some good insulation.
 

jdub

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IwantMKIII;1360701 said:
Jdub - Not sure which T you mean. There is one T rejoined the two catch cans and one T at the hardline to connect in with the TB as well. You can see both of them by enlarging the picture.

Shaeff - I know, i've been looking for a good insulator other than hose. I'm trying to find some foam insulator like on an AC compressor.

IJ - long story. I'm about to put up another thread and you'll see why. But long story short a Mishimoto blew out and i got a direct drop in replacement but didn't have stock mounts at the time. They work for now and is rather secure but still trying to get a hold of my stock ones but i have to have someone find them first and ship them :/

Describe the hose routing from the T at the TB.

What IJ is getting at is those brackets are grounding the rad to the frame...not good. Ever heard of galvanic corrosion? What you've done is turn your rad into a sacrificial anode. The stock brackets and lower support are rubber for a reason...keep it like that for very long and you will blow another radiator.
 

IwantMKIII

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IJ.;1360707 said:
At least put some rubber under them for the time being ;)
(good to see you flushed the MishiMoto Turd)


You can't see but there is.

edit: actually mishimoto replaced it for free so didn't exactly get rid of it lol. So much for a new thread, i think my GF deleted the comparison pictures.
 

IwantMKIII

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jdub;1360708 said:
Describe the hose routing from the T at the TB.

What IJ is getting at is those brackets are grounding the rad to the frame...not good. Ever heard of galvanic corrosion? What you've done is turn your rad into a sacrificial anode. The stock brackets and lower support are rubber for a reason...keep it like that for very long and you will blow another radiator.

There is some rubber between. I will 2x check to make sure there is no contact.

Also. The T from the TB/hardline routes in a U-shape along the firewall under the brake booster down to the side with the driver side brake lines and along the shock mount area to where the PS res is where it meets another T.
 

jdub

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IwantMKIII;1360716 said:
There is some rubber between. I will 2x check to make sure there is no contact.

Also. The T from the TB/hardline routes in a U-shape along the firewall under the brake booster down to the side with the driver side brake lines and along the shock mount area to where the PS res is where it meets another T.


Rubber on the bottom rad support as well?

That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure...it should work the same as stock.
 

IwantMKIII

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jdub;1360722 said:
Rubber on the bottom rad support as well?

That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure...it should work the same as stock.

There is rubber for the bottom of the rad (the two bushing/mounts) and on the underside of the top supports. There is no rubber between the area of the top mounts with the bolt goes and the cross support though if thats what you mean. Never thought there was on stock mounts.
 

jdub

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Just so long there is no metal connection (including a bolt) between the frame and the rad that would provide a grounding source.
 

adampecush

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Use a socketless aeroquip line for the rail to the FPR. Sure the braided line looks great, but it is not at all practical there.