engine seized? na-t swap.

[luxbond]

background: long term na-gte swap. 88 jdm in 89 chassis.

so. finally got my battery installed, positive cables installed. got pwr to the dash, starter, etc. good grounds, all new 4 and 8g. have bad gas, but i just need to get this pig turning, im not looking to fire, just to turn.

jumped in, clutch went to the floor. tried to bleed the line. no go. bad slave cylinder or the fork is stuck, trans is fine. no big deal, ive still got neutral should be good enough to get it turning.

clutch goes to floor, clutch trigger is depressed, neutral, turn key. click, doesnt even turn just sounds like it locked up. starter is jammed it sounds like. w58 w/ centerforce to jdm gte. could turn crank pulley with socket this morning, now unable to rotate engine.

could half a crank cause my engine to lock the starter into the flywheel? any idea why i cant bleed fluid out of slave line?

any insight is appreciated.

 

[americanjebus]

take a long extension and hit the starter, mine locked up and i had to smack the sucker till the slenoid made contact. if its just a click could be bad starter, its what i'm dealing with. you got power? use another running car with jumpers and try again.
check ALL of your fuses. like ALL of them by the battery and kick panel pullem off one by one. check your ground wires again.
pull of connectors to starter and clean them and reattach and try again,
pull the alternator and test it. check the cables, do this with battery disconnected or your gonna be changing a 100amp fuse for the alt. (they suck)

then if you really want to try pop starting with a fresh battery.

let us know what you find.

 

[luxbond]

i forgot to try knocking the starter, good idea. i was gonna drop the car on the ground and push it back and forth a few feet try to knock the pinion gear (?) away from the starter. starter has a solid 'thud' like its jammed, its not bad, new optima, new wires, all fuses good.

what blocks do i jump on diag to catch codes? been a while since i worked on this project. :1zhelp:

 

[americanjebus]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/engineerrorcodes.html

check your grounds under the fuse box next to battery see if its not just corroded, turn on your lights and then do it see how low your lights get. take out your spark plugs since your not trying to fire it and put a something like a thing metal rod in there that will not break and see if it trys to go up or not.

i'd try to readjust your clutch take the fork out, what is most likely happening is that when you put your foot to the floor your clutch isnt releasing so that little rotation you made with your wrench is just fighting against your clutch. did it ever run before?? or is this your half completed install.

 

[GrimJack]

Just pull the starter off and see if the engine will turn from the front pulley then. Starter is only a 15 minute job with a buddy.

If that solves it, take the starter to a shop and have them beat it into submission.

 

[luxbond]

removed starter, no rotation.
dropped car off stands, no roll.

cannot move clutch fork. maybe 3/8" of play back and forth. how much should there be? with shifter in neutral should be pretty fluid movement, correct? no slave cylinder on car.

im going to get a pack of smokes, then i will work some more.

 

[GrimJack]

No, there shouldn't be much movement in the clutch fork, it doesn't matter what gear the tranny is in.

You mean that you can't roll the car with the tranny in neutral? Sounds like your tranny is FUBAR'd... or the EBrake is still on!

 

[luxbond]

some play in clutch fork. the brass retainer is still hooked on it. all looks good.

checked fluids, all good.

now im out of ideas other than the engine/trans is binding somewhere. still doesn't explain why the morning of, i could rotate the engine by hand. i can't do anymore work today without getting frustrated.

thanks for the input guys, any other explanations/ideas are welcome and appreciated.

 

[1TuffSupra]

Maybe your clutch is enganged. Ive never experienced anything like your describing, but a clutch as grippy as the centerforce, if it is in fact engaged, should cause enough friction to make your car terribly difficult to start. Did you try starting the motor before you put it in your car?

 

[luxbond]

nope never been started since i put it in.

trans can shift, but its rough. a stuck clutch would also explain why my pedal was sticking to the floor. but would that also prevent the car from rolling forward in neutral?

 

[GrimJack]

No.

If the car is in neutral without the ebrake on and doesn't want to roll, there is something wrong with the transmission - as in, it's not really in neutral, or the tranny is siezed, or something simlar.

 

[luxbond]

tranny seizures? never knew the w58 was epileptic.

im gonna have to drop that sumbitch, huh? cant diagnose it on the car to my knowledge, removing the inspection plate wont do anything for me.

 

[GrimJack]

Unfortunately, you are 110% right.

 

[americanjebus]

Just pull the starter off and see if the engine will turn from the front pulley then. Starter is only a 15 minute job with a buddy.

If that solves it, take the starter to a shop and have them beat it into submission.

im assuming your car wasnt assembled by a fartnocker like mine. OR you just took the starter SELENOID off not the entire bracekt on the bellhousing, my two 14 mm botls that hold the starter housing face in towards the car not outwards toward the alternator so i can loosen one but it its IMPOSSIBLE to take a wrecnch to the other support braket cus it sits directly against my transmission well. i spent from 5:30 pm this afternoon till 9:30 pm trying to get hte sucker off and ended up just taking the selenoid rods off and replacing the selenoid by itself. selenoid is a 15 minute job, starter housing is a days work of taking everthing off the car cus someone threaded my bolts in the wrong direction.

 

[GrimJack]

No, I'm talking about the entire starter - and mine has a nut and a bolt, thus the reason for a buddy to help.

One person crawls under the car and puts a box end wrench on the rear - in my case the nut. This person also guides the socket onto the other end, in my case the bolt.

The second person feeds the required socket on several extensions in from the front of the engine, adding extensions as required until the ratchet is in the narrow gap between the front of the engine and the radiator.

At this point, the first person holds on, the second person cranks the ratchet, repeat the whole process for the second bolt, pull the plug and the wires, and the person under the car pulls off the starter and hands it out to the other.

Easy! I'm not kidding when I say the starter comes off in 15 minutes. I swear I'm going to start doing demos at all the meets I go to.

 

[luxbond]

thats what i thought it was, the starter binding with the flywheel. starter took 30 mins to do by myself. 1/4" drive ratchet on the bolt, stubby wrench on the nut, and a led pen light.

 

[americanjebus]

see i dont have a bolt and nut, its just a bolt. facing the back. i managed to feel and look at the two bolts holding it and there is no nut facing the front, just threads. how did you reach the top bolt from the back.

crap i geuss i need a longer 14mm and another go.

 

[GrimJack]

Ratcheting box end wrench. Easily worth the cost to save hours of work.

 

[shaeff]

Ratcheting box end wrench. Easily worth the cost to save hours of work.

:bowdown:

-shaeff