Engine runs but lacks power after idle

[supra153624]

ok so my 7mgte runs, but when i apply gas to it, it boggs out n sputters, the turbo spools up but no power at all, its like it just chokes and dies, ive played with the timeing, the cams, the intake and the cam censor, nothing seems to work, can anyone help?

 

[subjug4tor]

Have you checked the diagnostic codes?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23

 

[supra153624]

Have you checked the diagnostic codes?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23

yeah i get 12 24 and 51

 

[subjug4tor]

51 is a throttle position sensor error signal, check to make sure that it is adjusted correctly. Also, check your wiring for cracks or breaks on your cam position sensor and air flow meter, thats where the codes 12 and 24 will come from, respectively. sometimes the CPS wires will get brittle and not work all the time, try jiggling the plug and wires and seeing if it helps at all. If so, you have a problem with the cps wires. Do the same with the air flow meter harness, its possible you have a bad wiring harness that may need some fixing.

 

[supra153624]

51 is a throttle position sensor error signal, check to make sure that it is adjusted correctly. Also, check your wiring for cracks or breaks on your cam position sensor and air flow meter, thats where the codes 12 and 24 will come from, respectively. sometimes the CPS wires will get brittle and not work all the time, try jiggling the plug and wires and seeing if it helps at all. If so, you have a problem with the cps wires. Do the same with the air flow meter harness, its possible you have a bad wiring harness that may need some fixing.

hmmm i had a feeling that it was the camm positioning sencor, altho my book indicates that the codes i got are something totaly difrent, 12 says rpm signal(crank angle pulse) 42 vehicle speed sencor 51 ac switch

 

[Angry7M]

In your second post you said you had code 24 not code 42......so it code 24 or 42?

 

[supra153624]

In your second post you said you had code 24 not code 42......so it code 24 or 42?

oh my bad, its code (42) not 24 i was in a hurry and typed it in wrong, i had also gone back in and repositioned the cam position sencor as well, i havnt had time to drive it, but from what i gather the engine runs a little better, i was also reading in another post that it could posible be in the fuel presure, maybe i dont know at this point, the engine will run normal and hit 7k rpm with little hesitation now, but as far as driving up the street it will idle and drive fine until i give it more gas and the turbo spools up

 

[Supraboy89]

oh my bad, its code (42) not 24 i was in a hurry and typed it in wrong, i had also gone back in and repositioned the cam position sencor as well, i havnt had time to drive it, but from what i gather the engine runs a little better, i was also reading in another post that it could posible be in the fuel presure, maybe i dont know at this point, the engine will run normal and hit 7k rpm with little hesitation now, but as far as driving up the street it will idle and drive fine until i give it more gas and the turbo spools up

check for a boost leak

 

[supra153624]

check for a boost leak

ive gone over the intake a few times, at first the stearing rack was knocking the intake off the mass air flow meter, i corected that by mounting the intake 2 inches higher to avoid that problem, but my intake from the throttle body to the turbo doesnt have any leaks, im starting to think its an ignition problem in the coil pack or maybe the spark plugs need to be swaped out, when my car is in the shop just running and idleing i can rev the motor up to redline with no problem and the bov goes off at peak rpm, as soon as i get it on the road and give it more gas it lacks power and stutters and cuts out, but still it will drive normal up and down the street

 

[pparrigo]

I had a similar (?) problem recently. Car ran perfectly normal under a vacuum, but hit a wall at 0 psi... I was confused for a few minutes, but then i knew it was a boost leak. I didn't see any obvious cracks, so I started to swap the plugs out. Then I noticed that the hose from the 3000 pipe to the intake was blown open on the back.
Turns out that weekend, i had three separate problems kick me in the face at once- Intake leak, old plugs, and real bad wires (All problems had existed when I bought the car, this was just the first time they had gotten bad enough at the same time for me to notice). Car runs better than I have ever seen it with them fixed, obviously. MPG went up by 33% as well.

I would double and triple check all of your intake plumbing, plugs, and plug wires. Like I said, I would never have noticed my broken hose without pulling it off to get at the plugs. I never did get codes like you did though.

 

[supra153624]

I had a similar (?) problem recently. Car ran perfectly normal under a vacuum, but hit a wall at 0 psi... I was confused for a few minutes, but then i knew it was a boost leak. I didn't see any obvious cracks, so I started to swap the plugs out. Then I noticed that the hose from the 3000 pipe to the intake was blown open on the back.
Turns out that weekend, i had three separate problems kick me in the face at once- Intake leak, old plugs, and real bad wires (All problems had existed when I bought the car, this was just the first time they had gotten bad enough at the same time for me to notice). Car runs better than I have ever seen it with them fixed, obviously. MPG went up by 33% as well.

I would double and triple check all of your intake plumbing, plugs, and plug wires. Like I said, I would never have noticed my broken hose without pulling it off to get at the plugs. I never did get codes like you did though.

well today i plan to pull the coil pack plugs and wires out and check umm for electrical defaults, maybe its just something so small that i wont have to pay out the ass for new parts if i can figure it out, everyones been a big help so far keepin me in check for things i need to check n recheck, i just cant understand it at all as to why my car will run fine one minute and as soon as i spool it up and run it , it looses all power and cuts out, would the neutral start swicth have anything to do with it? or that my indash boost gauge reads +8 lbs before start up and after? also i will upload a video for everyone to see so u can see first hand what im working with.