Engine feels like it shuts off, then turns back on - Code 14, 31, and 52

Doward

Banned
Jan 11, 2006
4,245
0
36
Alachua, FL
Ok, the car had the Code 52 when I got it... bad knock sensor. I'll get around to checking that out, but I've only had the car 2 days.

I degreased the engine bay, and now get a code 31 - Open or Shorted AFM. Any way to check that?

I also get a Code 14... and it's really strange. The car has run fine for the past 2 days, but now if you're driving along, the engine feels like it dies, but if I slide it into neutral, the rpms just drop to about 500, and then come back up to around 900 (where it has been)... I'm thinking (according to the TSRM) maybe a bad ignitor?

*sigh*

Anyone have a good ignitor and stock AFM electronics for sale?
 

Doward

Banned
Jan 11, 2006
4,245
0
36
Alachua, FL
omfg. The AFM connector was full of water. Freakin' A, I'm an idiot. I pulled the electronics out, used some QD Electronics Cleaner to blow it all clean, and have it air drying right now, while I go ahead and ohm test teh coils.
 

Doward

Banned
Jan 11, 2006
4,245
0
36
Alachua, FL
Coils came out (primary resistance) at .4 across the board. Nice :)

I tested the 12v to the coils, all good - as well as power to the ignitor, full juice there.

The TSRM says I have to apply 3v across some of the terminals, and check for momentary continuity.

I think I'll just replace it anyway :)

I need to get my hands on a good AFM, too, or a used MAF-T (I have a spare LT1 MAF here - GM 3" - lol)

BTW, the AFM is toast now - code 24 and 31... no more 14 though. I think I want to change the AFM before I change the ignitor.