help!!! my car is slower on boost than it is off boost! I swear it pulls harder before the turbo spools. I am throwing no codes at all!!!! It has 93 octane in it, and it does this at stock boost or 12 psi. Everything under the hood is connected, both knock sensors are hooked up, no boost leaks, its not pinging that I can hear. It just started this today. Any ideas? When the turbo spools, it will pull hard for just a second, and then the ECU pulls the crap out of the timing. I threw a timing light on it at work, and its at 10 degrees btdc...
ECU pulling my timing
- Thread starter gixxer750
- Start date
are you on a lex afm or the stocker ( modded stocker afm maybe?)
If my memory serves me right, the stock timing is around 12-13 degrees BTDC.
so you are a little retarded (LOL). :biglaugh: ....anywho....you having the stock or the lex afm at 12lbs might tell us ALOT.
When I hit fuel cut for the first time today....it EASED into FC....it felt like the timing was EXTREMELY retarded......but then it rained and got cooler ( denser air charge equalling in more PSI ) and I reallly hit fuel cut HARD...through me and the friend into the dash!
So you might be running into a SLIGHT fuel cut....depending on what your answer is to my question above....stock afm at 12lbs or lex afm.?
-Jonathan
If my memory serves me right, the stock timing is around 12-13 degrees BTDC.
so you are a little retarded (LOL). :biglaugh: ....anywho....you having the stock or the lex afm at 12lbs might tell us ALOT.
When I hit fuel cut for the first time today....it EASED into FC....it felt like the timing was EXTREMELY retarded......but then it rained and got cooler ( denser air charge equalling in more PSI ) and I reallly hit fuel cut HARD...through me and the friend into the dash!
So you might be running into a SLIGHT fuel cut....depending on what your answer is to my question above....stock afm at 12lbs or lex afm.?
-Jonathan
running the stock afm, but it will do it at stock boost just the same. The screw is backed all the way out of the afm, and I usually hit FC around 15 psi.
maybe your CPS moved? seriously..check the CPS position...maybe the bolt jumped out? LOL...but really.
I would check the CPS and well check the o2 sensor, FPR, and the AFM.
All in all, it could be signs of your ECU falling apart....ECU's do go out, and when they do they can do all sorts of weird things.....like throw NO codes but cause the timing ( firing) to be off.....
that COULD be it.
-Jonathan
I would check the CPS and well check the o2 sensor, FPR, and the AFM.
All in all, it could be signs of your ECU falling apart....ECU's do go out, and when they do they can do all sorts of weird things.....like throw NO codes but cause the timing ( firing) to be off.....
that COULD be it.
-Jonathan
gixxer750 said:
On a side note gixxer, you said you screw is backed all the way out.....now how STIFF is the screw in the AFM body? can it jibble around in there.....could it come LOOSE?
I am just worried when I do mine today ( 1:03am right now lol) I want to make sure I back the screw out all the way but make sure the screw doesnt slide around or fall out!!!!
.......or that could be your problem...the screw screwed itself back in causing an enormous restriction but not FC....
CHECK THE SCREW!!!! :icon_surp
-Jonathan
timing should be set to 10 degrees, with t1 and e1 jumpered.
reset the ECU and drive the car. boost on it do whatever. see if it keeps doing it. then check the codes.
id say boost leak however, since you say no codes were thrown. DOUBLE check your IC pipes.
reset the ECU and drive the car. boost on it do whatever. see if it keeps doing it. then check the codes.
id say boost leak however, since you say no codes were thrown. DOUBLE check your IC pipes.
yeah that too lagged.
His intercooler could be clogged with oil from the PCV system....
could of blew a IC pipe running 15lbs with a clogged intercooler...the pressure has to escape somewhere, which is the weakest point....which is probaly the piping at the couplers...
Good call.
My car ( when my IC piping blew off) ran really rich and felt like it was hitting fuel cut stumbling at 4K rpm....almost like hitting a rev limiter...it would not go any further in the RPM range.
-Jonathan
His intercooler could be clogged with oil from the PCV system....
could of blew a IC pipe running 15lbs with a clogged intercooler...the pressure has to escape somewhere, which is the weakest point....which is probaly the piping at the couplers...
Good call.
My car ( when my IC piping blew off) ran really rich and felt like it was hitting fuel cut stumbling at 4K rpm....almost like hitting a rev limiter...it would not go any further in the RPM range.
-Jonathan
I've blown IC pipes off, my car will just barely run. The screw is still in the afm, and I'd think if I had a boost leak, I would hit fuel cut. If I turn the greddy profec b up to 15 lbs, I still hit fuel cut. I am not running the stock pcv system anymore, I have a k&n breather filter on the strut tower for the pcv. The intercooler was flushed with gasoline several times when I did my rebuild and blown out with compressed air. This wasn't a gradual thing, it was all at once, at it feels like the timing being pulled. On occasion, it will pull hard all the way through one gear. The timing is set at 10 degrees BTDC, and the cps hasn't moved, because the timing would be off. I cleared the ECU and ran it again, still no codes, other than FC, because I tried to turn the boost up to make sure it wasn't a boost leak. I double checked the wires on the KS's... they are ok. The ECU is about 6 months old, it came from toyota(they actually had a new one on the shelf they had ordered for a guy. He paid for it, two years ago and never came back??? They sold it to me for $100)
Hey Jonathan - if you're worried about the screw falling out, just get a rubber plug and pound that into the hole after you back it out. 
GrimJack said:Hey Jonathan - if you're worried about the screw falling out, just get a rubber plug and pound that into the hole after you back it out.
We think alike! That was exactly what I was thinking of doing. I will see exactly what size tommorw. If anything I will just put some JB weld in there to secure the backed out screw, LOL
-Jonathan
What i did was drilled a small hole through the alluminum cap and then backed the screw all the way out till it is tight against the aluminum cap. no need to completely drill the cap out and screw will not call out.
and have you hit fuel cut yet? I am at 12+lbs right now on the MDC washers....hit fuel cut yesterday....have you on the mod?
-Jonathan
-Jonathan
group a supra
SPAWNING AN INTERCEPTOR
check the back of the cam pullies about 5 yr ago mine was set on 10 degrees perfect then i would go no problems hit boost and same problem as you took me ages to find out what it was
turns out the pulley had worn away on the bolt holes and when boosting was retarding the timing as it moved
but you couldnt see it with out taking it of
might just be that
turns out the pulley had worn away on the bolt holes and when boosting was retarding the timing as it moved
but you couldnt see it with out taking it of
might just be that
siman said:
that's a common problem.
He saying check the bolt holes of the cam gears for elongation.
Thanks for the translation LOL.
This kind of relates to my friends rebuilt LS B18 motor in his DA integra.
He rebuild the whole motor and head...though he re-used 260K mile old cam gears and cams......
IDIOT ALERT went off in my mind when he told me this.....now after 1000miles on the rebuild the car makes a HUGE clicking noise becuase the spacing b/t the cams and the shims are too great....LOL He didnt space the shims right!!! UGH.
and on start up since the timing gets thrown off because of the cam gears being so warn on the cams keys and such that the timing is off at low rpms and it sputters and nearly stalls.....no codes...no nothing, its all mechanical LOL
But hey, its his first rebuild, and he never called me to come over and help him.....and now look where he is.
Driving a ricer honda that clacks louder than a grandfather clock!
-Jonathan
This kind of relates to my friends rebuilt LS B18 motor in his DA integra.
He rebuild the whole motor and head...though he re-used 260K mile old cam gears and cams......
IDIOT ALERT went off in my mind when he told me this.....now after 1000miles on the rebuild the car makes a HUGE clicking noise becuase the spacing b/t the cams and the shims are too great....LOL He didnt space the shims right!!! UGH.
and on start up since the timing gets thrown off because of the cam gears being so warn on the cams keys and such that the timing is off at low rpms and it sputters and nearly stalls.....no codes...no nothing, its all mechanical LOL
But hey, its his first rebuild, and he never called me to come over and help him.....and now look where he is.
Driving a ricer honda that clacks louder than a grandfather clock!
-Jonathan
I pulled my timing cover, all appears well. My cams are new, but my cam gears are not. They seem to be just fine.
mine did this when i first put the Cold air intake on it. but what i found was there wasnt a good solid connection between the intercooler piping and the pipe that goes to the intake manifold itself, once i got that fixed, i was fine. you might have a "small leak" there. all it was for me was a gap that you couldnt even slide a piece of paper in. but it was enofe air to mess it up under boost.