Driveshaft Decision. I'm torn. Advice from experienced?

[suprarx7nut]

So my mk3 has a ton of slop in the stock 2-piece driveshaft. If the rear section hasn't already twisted, it can't be far off. I have the stock w58 DS with ~325k miles. The last 15k of which have been with a turbo motor tearing at the axles.

I need to replace the driveshaft with something new and I can't make up my mind. I keep going back and forth and then back again. One piece shafts are cheap, simple, light and have a much higher likelihood of failure/vibration/noise. Two piece are more complex, more expensive, but also much less likely to exhibit and noise or vibration. I want a 2-piece, but holy FUCK is it expensive to do it right.

Choices are:
1 piece 3.0" Aluminum from Driveshaft Shop ~$450
1 piece 3.5" Aluminum from Driveshaft Shop ~$500
1 piece 3.25" Carbon from Driveshaft Shop ~$1000
2 piece 3.5" Aluminum from Driveshaft Shop ~$1150
2 piece 3.0" half steel/half Aluminum from Shaftmasters ~$750


I side with Driveshaft Shop on the one piece options because they have a unique (from what I've been told) high speed balancer and can ensure a higher quality product. They're web presentation is also top notch and shows they mean business. The Shaftmasters 2-piece is the same~ish thing as what was previously shown on here. The price has gone up significantly and it still uses the steel front section. Driveshaft Shop can make an all original Aluminum tubed 2-piece and has estimated me a cost of just over double the standard or larger (3.5") aluminum.

My car and it's plans:
GT Cruiser. This means I value performance AND luxury. I dont want excessive noise, vibration, or weight.
-350whp MAX, likely less than 325. I have a boost controller and opt to keep it turned off because the stock ~6-7psi is plenty fun for normal driving.
-Raptor Racing exhaust. I have a fantastic 3" RR exhaust that's not obnoxiously loud, but it is louder than OEM. I'd prefer the DS to add as little noise as possible.
-Budget. Let's face it, I dont make 6 figures. I have student loans, I dont want to sink my savings into my ride. Money always matters.

I know about critical speeds and how a 2-piece is the obvious choice from a design/engineering perspective. HOWEVER, the one-piece may suit my needs well enough and the HUGE price difference is making me seriously question it's absolute necessity. My car is a constant work in progress and that extra $300-600 could go towards many other worthwhile restoration/upgrades.

Can anyone provide their experience from a noise/vibration standpoint with the one piece units? I dont want to hear about experience on a track or at the strip. I'm talking highway cruising with windows up and music turned down. Is it loud? Is there a constant whir? Can you tell any difference with the one piece?

I'll fill in a bunch of info I've received from Driveshaft Shop after I make my decision. They've been very responsive and pleasant to work with thus far. Pricing is high, but the quality looks excellent. And they actual have some good customer service which is certainly worth something. Anyways, my focus now is figuring out what the hell to do.

 

[emiliorescigno]

I'm definitely going to follow this thread and see what people have to say. It seems that all your plans/goals/budget are exactly the same as mine, so I might as well keep track of what you're up to. :icon_bigg

 

[MNBmk3T]

I have the DSS 1-Piece 3.5" in my car. My end goals with my 1JZ swap are ~750HP and it should be able to handle that easily.

 

[CyFi6]

How about have the driveshaft shop replace your center support bearing and ujoints, and fab a new solid rear section? Then you have the stock driveshaft with a new rear section that does not have the possibility of slipping.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I have the DSS 1-Piece 3.5" in my car. My end goals with my 1JZ swap are ~750HP and it should be able to handle that easily.

Have you driven your car with the one-piece? can you hear anything from it?

How about have the driveshaft shop replace your center support bearing and ujoints, and fab a new solid rear section? Then you have the stock driveshaft with a new rear section that does not have the possibility of slipping.

In talking with DSS, they seem to steer clear of any kind of OEM modification. I asked about it and they keep telling me they can do anything, but my impression has been that they would offer a 100% brand new 2-piece and not modify the OEM part.

 

[toyotanos]

I have a Dahn Automotive AL 3.5" driveshaft tht I'm in love with so far. My exhaust is too loud to hear anything else so I can't comment on the nose, but I haven't felt any vibration like my stocker had with the slipped rear joint. Best part is, it was only ~$600 for the shaft shipped. You may need to do something special since you're on a W58- not sure if he's made them for that trans- I was referred by Zerocool (now Clint) in Arizona and I couldn't be happier!

Prior, I had a Jawsgear 3" AL driveshaft and it was fine as well. I went to the 3.5" so I could have a little more safety running the 4.3 rear end.


Once I get the exhaust shut up, I'll report back with an update if any is needed!

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

if your looking for the cheapest route. i ran a ford ranger carrier bearing for the last 40k miles. while on the toyota DS(r154)

Did you say the DS was for a W58 behind a turbo? well the input shaft will break(w58) before you ever hurt a DS if you get into the upper 400hp area.
The 2 piece is more for the being able to sustain excessively high speeds for long periods of time. so if your looking to just get rid of the toyota ds i would get a steel one piece, its cheaper in buying and if anything happens its easier to balance because its steel and its easily weldeable.

PS!! get standard yokes if you do go aftermarket!! metric u joints are twice the price of standard!!

I had a industrial manufacture build a DS for my car and it was $340 total, new standard yokes,high quality joints, steel w/deadener, precision balance and tested.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I have a Dahn Automotive AL 3.5" driveshaft tht I'm in love with so far. My exhaust is too loud to hear anything else so I can't comment on the nose, but I haven't felt any vibration like my stocker had with the slipped rear joint. Best part is, it was only ~$600 for the shaft shipped. You may need to do something special since you're on a W58- not sure if he's made them for that trans- I was referred by Zerocool (now Clint) in Arizona and I couldn't be happier!

Prior, I had a Jawsgear 3" AL driveshaft and it was fine as well. I went to the 3.5" so I could have a little more safety running the 4.3 rear end.


Once I get the exhaust shut up, I'll report back with an update if any is needed!

That'd be good if you can update the noise factor with a quiet exhaust. My big concern with the onepeice right now is noise.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

 

[jake8790]

I have a shaftmasters 1 piece aluminum. Perfect fit, and it's very light. I took it up to 120 with 4.30 gears, with no vibration or noise. If I was you, I'd go with the 1 piece 3.5" aluminum.

 

[MNBmk3T]

I can't comment no the noise either because of my exhaust, but there is no vibration on my DSS AL 3.5" driveshaft. And I've taken mine upto 120mph.

 

[Turbo Habanero]

I have a Dahn Automotive AL 3.5" driveshaft tht I'm in love with so far. My exhaust is too loud to hear anything else so I can't comment on the nose, but I haven't felt any vibration like my stocker had with the slipped rear joint. Best part is, it was only ~$600 for the shaft shipped. You may need to do something special since you're on a W58- not sure if he's made them for that trans- I was referred by Zerocool (now Clint) in Arizona and I couldn't be happier!

Prior, I had a Jawsgear 3" AL driveshaft and it was fine as well. I went to the 3.5" so I could have a little more safety running the 4.3 rear end.


Once I get the exhaust shut up, I'll report back with an update if any is needed!

I've seen Dahn's work and have driven a car with one of his drive shafts and it feels great and didn't here any noise

 

[Nick M]

Not to make you feel bad, but I paid under $200 for my SVO aluminum drive shaft back in the day.

 

[CyFi6]

Cant tell you if mine was a fluke but I had a 1 piece aluminum shaft from shaftmasters and had some pretty bad vibration around 110 to 120... Went back to stock with anew ujoints and new center bearing and its smoother than ever.

 

[te72]

Not t make you feel bad, but I paid under $200 for my SVO aluminum drive shaft back in the day.

Bigger market, lower prices? Or just a matter of what year you bought it... Gas itself was probably a lot cheaper when you had that car too.

To the OP, who have you been working with at the Driveshaft Shop? I was planning on getting the Titan carbon driveshaft, but it may prove hard to find, so it is good to know DS can make them too.

 

[SideWinderGX]

How about have the driveshaft shop replace your center support bearing and ujoints, and fab a new solid rear section? Then you have the stock driveshaft with a new rear section that does not have the possibility of slipping.

Except that's a pointless thing to do. There's some horsepower you can free up by going to a lighter driveshaft, no reason to stick with the stock two piece today.

I've had mine into the triple digits multiple times and the only problem I had was when I didn't torque the diff bolts (first test drive out), I just used some open end wrenches and 'assumed'. Vibrated a little bit. Went back, torqued them, no vibration at all and smooth as silk. Accelerates quicker as well.

 

[Nick M]

Bigger market, lower prices?

Market forces is the correct answer. Aluminum is cheap. Soda cans aren't aluminum because it is convenient to you. People paying those absurd prices is the reason for the absurd prices. They still aren't very much money. Just a sec....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4602-J/

Still only $300.00

 

[Poodles]

Except that's a pointless thing to do. There's some horsepower you can free up by going to a lighter driveshaft, no reason to stick with the stock two piece today.

I've had mine into the triple digits multiple times and the only problem I had was when I didn't torque the diff bolts (first test drive out), I just used some open end wrenches and 'assumed'. Vibrated a little bit. Went back, torqued them, no vibration at all and smooth as silk. Accelerates quicker as well.

Except you're ignoring why they went with a 2 piece in the first place. Which do you think would have been cheaper?

 

[figgie]

Except you're ignoring why they went with a 2 piece in the first place. Which do you think would have been cheaper?

Here I'll take a stab

CRITICAL SPEED.

but beyond me explaining... read up

http://www.krugerfan.com/brochure/publications/Tbn017.pdf

 

[tlo86]

i'd replace the bearing, the cheapest alternative

 

[Quin]

I had a ~3" one piece aluminum in one of my Supras. Didn't notice any addition n/v/h with it at all at any speed. Exhaust was louder than OEM but not as loud as my other Supras have been. I had no complaints.

Word to the wise though, make sure your trans mounts are in good shape and tight. Sold it to Matt (~700whp na-t 2j swapped car) and we grenaded his trans on the first pull. lol