So my A/C quit working before I did my engine swap, the clutch quit engaging I didn't do much diagnosis back then. But now I've tested a few things, the 10A fuse is good. The one pin plug is plugged into the harness. The clutch piece spins freely no bearing noise. My A/C light stays on it does not flash indicating a bad amp or relay. I turn it on and off and hear a quiet click under the fuse box I'm assuming from the magnetic relay device but no engage. I'm thinking this is due to a low/no more charge or would the clutch just be bad? I have another unit I could take the clutch from. When the A/C did work like early last year it worked great was very cold. I didn't use it all year I tried once in summer but didn't really use it and that's where I think I messed it up by never using it lol. I'm moving south and I just like everything working correctly.
Dreaded A/C Not Working!
- Thread starter Emeraldage
- Start date
Okay well that valve on the A/C compressor itself, Ijust took a screw driver and pressed the valve in and there was no pressure, no air or anything coming out. So I'm guessing the electronic sensors don't detect and pressure so it won't turn the compressor on? I thought if that was true the a/c light would flash, at least the eclipse did so.
Time to not do that because big arse mishimoto radiator is more important to replace my rotting one lol.
You can't even do an r12 system anymore can you? Been reading about conversions and from what I've been reading it'll be like 150$ for conversion parts drier and all that.. 100-150 parallel flow condenser and whatever it costs a shop to vacuum my system and all that.
You can't even do an r12 system anymore can you? Been reading about conversions and from what I've been reading it'll be like 150$ for conversion parts drier and all that.. 100-150 parallel flow condenser and whatever it costs a shop to vacuum my system and all that.
You just need to r134a fittings and then to flush the system.
After that can run r134a instead if r12. R12 works better but harder to find.
After that can run r134a instead if r12. R12 works better but harder to find.
suprasick;2004949 said:
I can answer that one from here. Zero. If he had refrigerant, it would show a pressure equal to ambient temps.
Well it obviously leaked out so I would have to get it tested to possibly find where the leak is for one before I do anything. I don't want to just swap over to r134a without a parallel flow. But thanks for the info I guess I should first try to see if I can get it leak tested and recharged with r12 if I'm lucky. I honestly don't use a/c much unless it's like 90-95+ so it's not extremely important to me but when I'm really restoring a car I just want everything to work haha.
Thanks for the information I really don't' know much about a/c systems at all... Well at least working on them. I'll do some research, have a link of a good article?
For doing a conversion from r12 to r134a with a parallel flow, assuming my system leaked just because of a bad seal or oring somewhere, how much do you think it would cost me to do this conversion properly so I can have an idea of what I would be getting into? Also with a/c it's best to do everything at once correct? Not get it running, and then switch to a parallel flow later right?
For doing a conversion from r12 to r134a with a parallel flow, assuming my system leaked just because of a bad seal or oring somewhere, how much do you think it would cost me to do this conversion properly so I can have an idea of what I would be getting into? Also with a/c it's best to do everything at once correct? Not get it running, and then switch to a parallel flow later right?
Last edited:
Is it a bad idea to have the system checked for major leaks, and then have it charged with an r12 alternative? I do have a 2nd a/c compressor lol.. I feel like it'd be best to save money for a full rebuild new condensor with r134a sometime. Mine as well restore that while I'm going through the rest of the car.
if youre leaking refrigerant then youre also losing oil which is also not good. charging it is fine if you want to spend the money only to have it leak out again. by r12 alternative I assume you mean hydrocarbon gas. it works although it may not be legal where you are.
Moving to kentucky. I mean like freeze 12 and all that other stuff. Well that's why I meant to have ti vacuum tested to see how big it really is. I guess I'll wait and see if I can deal with the heat, I'm going to have to do the conversion at some point!