Does your temp rise at all when you get on in hard?

[Doward]

For you turbo guys out there.. I fixed a couple leaking hoses, and my coolant seems to hold good now (i'm going to test it again tomorrow, but the system held 16psi with no leakage, but the engine was warm still)

The thing is, if I get on the car really hard, like WOT for 2-3 gears straight, the temp will rise almost directly to the middle, my electric fans kick on, and after a minute the temps drop back down to 'normal' (just under 1/2 way).

Brand new water pump
Brand new single 1" core aluminum radiator
Brand new DSM fans, wired to a 190º probe
Brand new upper and lower hoses
Brand new thermostat (180º) and seal.

Just wondering if you guys notice this on your turbo motors, as well?

 

[Joel W.]

My coolant system is completely stock and once it is up to temp it does not move at all.. Just under half way with 180' tstat

 

[87CandyBlueT]

Same here mine goes almost half way and never drops or rises while driving, idle, or my favorite WOT 1st- 5th =] I would definately check your setup, maybe change the temp. sending unit. My cooling system is stock too.

 

[Shawndude]

The stock gauge will sit in the middle through a very wide temperature range (from about 180 F to 220 F). It needs to get above about 220 F for it to start creeping higher than the mid point.

It usually takes a while of beating on the car, before you can see it in the coolant temperature.

Edit:
Looking at your description closer, I'd say it's perfectly normal for your setup. Can you raise the fan temperature a little higher? 190 F is fairly low and is probably why you're seeing the slight swing of the gauge. The switch won't turn off till about 180 F.

 

[robeats91t]

It seems like e-fans tend to create this type of temp swing more than the stock clutch-fan setup. Especially e-fans that only kick on 100% at a single set temp.

My cooling system is in good shape (new rad, new pump, ALL new hoses, recent hg/arp's) with a set of FAL dual fans wired into the a/c fan control circuit, with a GReddy electric temp gauge, temp sensor installed in t-stat housing on the radiator side of the thermostat.

In this setup, once the engine's up to operating temps, the temp will sit around 94C, and on a 30C day on the highway--even at 90+mph in and out of boost for an hour trip--the temp readout on the GReddy will rise up to 102-103C and the fans kick on, then the temp drops back to 94-95C in a minute. 5-10 mins later, the cycle repeats. However, on the stock temp gauge, the needle never moves; it stays rock solid just under the halfway mark.

I'm planning on getting a SPAL PWM fan controller to try and help stabilize the temp and try to keep it under 100C consistently. The SPAL can use the signal from one of the factory temp sensors, and has two user-configurable temp points--a 60% fan speed kick-on temp and a 100% fan speed kick-on temp. Plus you can find them for under 70 bucks on eBay. The FAL kit is a little more configurable, and from what I remember about it will slowly spin up the e-fans with regards to your temp setting. Either setup would seem to smooth out the peaks in temperature as you drive hard, given that the fan kick-on and shut-off temps are set properly.

 

[koulee]

Yeah stock conditions:

190 deg tstat
.9 bar rad cap
fan, fan clutch, radiator

Temps never rise above 40-45%. Of course, I haven't owned the car long enough to see what the summer will do to it.

 

[JonnyRedline]

mine does the same, temp goes from 88-92C crusin around town to almost 105C under WOT depending on outside temp...i think its due to 3 factors...

1- air in cooling system(i burped my system many times and i still have waterfall and no its not bhg)

2- small, poor cooling radiator

3- a small leak in the cooling system

 

[NDBoost]

mine does the same, temp goes from 88-92C crusin around town to almost 105C under WOT depending on outside temp...i think its due to 3 factors...

1- air in cooling system(i burped my system many times and i still have waterfall and no its not bhg)

2- small, poor cooling radiator

3- a small leak in the cooling system

same here. Although im pushing coolant... on a practically new MHG..

 

[mkIIIman089]

Hmm... interesting to hear what each cars setup does.

I'm running a PWR rad with Blitz cap (don't remember the exact pressure right now) stock fan setup with shroud. I can go WOT as long as I want it seems and I barely hit 100* water temp. (right now ~.8 kg/cm^2 stock turbo... and fuel cut)

For its the oil temp climb rate thats concerning.

 

[Doward]

Good to hear feedback on all of this... here's another question - after the car is fully heated up, and then you let it sit overnight, is your radiator completely full, or just slightly under full?

 

[NDBoost]

totally empty and my overflow tanks (yes i have 2) are totally full.

 

[koulee]

Good to hear feedback on all of this... here's another question - after the car is fully heated up, and then you let it sit overnight, is your radiator completely full, or just slightly under full?

Radiator should be completely full and some will actually squirt out when you open it when its cold.

 

[robeats91t]

The radiator is totally full, and once the air bubbles are purged (caused by changing coolant or sometimes just by breaking the rad cap seal), the coolant in the reservoir should always be at the same level when the car is cool.

On a well working cooling system the reservoir tank will allow for a small amount of coolant past the rad cap into the reservoir due to heat expansion, and allow for the vacuum created due to cool-down without having to worry about air getting sucked into the system.

mkIIIman089: how long have you had the PWR? I'm thinking about getting the CSF 54mm thick aluminum radiator and wanted to get an idea of how much people's operating temps dropped by going for a fatter rad.

 

[Doward]

I burped it 3 times... finally just added some Bar's Leak, and seems to have fixed it.

Dammit, I'm going to be pissed if I have to do the head job again... fucking machine shop... I asked for 10RA, they said no problem, then when I pick it up, no guarantee what RA it is because 'oh, the needle broke'.

You must be kidding me.

The Supra's gotta last me until I can fix the clutch in the Honda Hopefully this weekend