I've heard around that it has taken people 8 years to do a 1jz swap on an MK3 supra. Can this really be possible? I have an 86.5 N/A 7mge that I want to swap to a 1JZ so that I can do "skids" a little easier. It's a DD atm but I plan on taking it to the track and going pro. But hearing that it takes a whole 8 years JUST to do a motor swap is turning me away. Around $5,000 for the motor, tranny, aswell as odds and ends. I can have 5k saved in 6+ months. I don't see how it takes 8 years, unless you're cranking that ratchet like a 90 y/o granny with arthritis...
Does it really take 8 years?
- Thread starter MKIII × Murdock
- Start date
I think a lot of people underestimate their budget. I have my 2j swap budget set to 8k and I several things already like rear sump oil pan set up and intercooler for 2j front facing intake and r154 trans already. If I was looking for easier "skids" I would go 2 j.
2j engine $2- 2500 will cost more based on tear down. min plan is all seals including valve stem and probably headgasket also
bell housing, flywheel and clutch $1000- 1500 or more.
ecu and wire harness $2200 to $5000 pro EFI
turbo and manifold and waste gate set up. $3000 I want SP torque monster setup.
tuning $500 to 1000.
intercooler, piping and blow off valve.$500 to 1200.
marvin crawler upgrades $500 -1200
a lot of misc not in list $1500-2500.
I figure that with the parts I have and I plan to do my own harness and run ECU Masters it will cost about $8000 to have car rolling out the door . I would like 650 at the wheels with lots of midrange power. My plans include 2jzgte vvti and maybe quick spool valve also.
My cars suspension and brakes and other systems are already good to go. That is a whole other game by itself.
Most long builds are caused by underfunding or life changing events. IE getting married having kids or job change.
Some builds start with engine only upgrades then they figure out the rest of package is not up to the power they are planning. Then once again they are under funded.
This my thoughts on the subject.
2j engine $2- 2500 will cost more based on tear down. min plan is all seals including valve stem and probably headgasket also
bell housing, flywheel and clutch $1000- 1500 or more.
ecu and wire harness $2200 to $5000 pro EFI
turbo and manifold and waste gate set up. $3000 I want SP torque monster setup.
tuning $500 to 1000.
intercooler, piping and blow off valve.$500 to 1200.
marvin crawler upgrades $500 -1200
a lot of misc not in list $1500-2500.
I figure that with the parts I have and I plan to do my own harness and run ECU Masters it will cost about $8000 to have car rolling out the door . I would like 650 at the wheels with lots of midrange power. My plans include 2jzgte vvti and maybe quick spool valve also.
My cars suspension and brakes and other systems are already good to go. That is a whole other game by itself.
Most long builds are caused by underfunding or life changing events. IE getting married having kids or job change.
Some builds start with engine only upgrades then they figure out the rest of package is not up to the power they are planning. Then once again they are under funded.
This my thoughts on the subject.
These cars are old, I would imagine many underestimate the amount of neglect their chassis received over the past 25 years.
I've spent 4+ years 2 weekends a month, over-restoring an 87 chassis.
Costs add up quick. I'm into Fr-S money territory.
But no, a straight motor swap... 40 hours should be plenty of time, if your drinking and working slow
I've spent 4+ years 2 weekends a month, over-restoring an 87 chassis.
Costs add up quick. I'm into Fr-S money territory.
But no, a straight motor swap... 40 hours should be plenty of time, if your drinking and working slow
Driftmotion said they would finish in a month, It shouldn't cost you more than 7k on a basic swap for a 1 or 2 j, with a used single setup
Took me a year and about 6k. I estimate 80 to 100 hours, but it was my first swap so there's a lot of learning experiences. A lot of little things you don't expect cause issues. So you end up waiting for parts you didn't know you needed a lot.
And my swap doesn't even look good. But hey, it runs. Looks can come later.
And my swap doesn't even look good. But hey, it runs. Looks can come later.
my 1J swap, with a nonstandard transmission, fuel system mods, and the poorly-documented JZX100 engine that required switching sumps and rerouting oil drains and all kinds of shit...
I have worked on it basically 1 day a month or less, for a couple years now, and while it's not all done, It's in the bay and I've had it running.
so no, not 8 years, unless you did 1 minute a day like demon said.
I have worked on it basically 1 day a month or less, for a couple years now, and while it's not all done, It's in the bay and I've had it running.
so no, not 8 years, unless you did 1 minute a day like demon said.
Alright, I'm feeling a little better about it. It'll be my first swap, just like rhs. But im expecting that and I want to do as much research as possible on the mk3 1jz swap and everything I need so I don't run into too many problems and give myself a bigger headache than I already know I'm getting myself into.
Personally I would go 2jz... unless you already have the engine. For swaps (from my understanding) the 2JZ is the most common, and therefore, has the largest support base. Plus... 1jz has a smaller displacement. 2jz is the "ultimate" swap for a MK3, although rebuilding the 7M isn't all that bad. Both are not cheap.
I think that 8 years would be more of an overall build than a swap itself. The swap is just like any other swap. No rocket science here really, however there are little "things" that one can run into and that's where research can be key. Talking to someone who has already gone the path is probably the best you can do.
From experience, I will say this... do NOT cut corners on whatever you do. These cars will spank you for it. Every corner I have cut (or attempted to) has cost me more than if I had done it properly in the first place. Its an over 20 year old car that is a bit grouchy when it comes to how you paw its innards...
Research
Plan
Discuss said plan and revisit any areas you are missing
Budget and slap money in the cookie jar
Purchase
Build
The first four steps can take you a long time if your planning on being meticulous (spelling?). But it will save you a lot of headache to have the map drawn properly before you setoff with cash in hand.
I think that 8 years would be more of an overall build than a swap itself. The swap is just like any other swap. No rocket science here really, however there are little "things" that one can run into and that's where research can be key. Talking to someone who has already gone the path is probably the best you can do.
From experience, I will say this... do NOT cut corners on whatever you do. These cars will spank you for it. Every corner I have cut (or attempted to) has cost me more than if I had done it properly in the first place. Its an over 20 year old car that is a bit grouchy when it comes to how you paw its innards...
Research
Plan
Discuss said plan and revisit any areas you are missing
Budget and slap money in the cookie jar
Purchase
Build
The first four steps can take you a long time if your planning on being meticulous (spelling?). But it will save you a lot of headache to have the map drawn properly before you setoff with cash in hand.
Or you could just buy my 1jz car, swapped, single, fuel, ready to go! Made 540whp last spring in a dynojet with tons of room to go up!
I bought a complete jza70 5 speed clip to do my swap. It took me 3 months while i was in college taking 5 courses, working part time, drinking malt and banging bitches with no rubbers.
Still drivng it and enjoying it to this day, and it has been 8 or 9 years!
Still drivng it and enjoying it to this day, and it has been 8 or 9 years!
Does anyone know what the two things above are? They were found just sitting in the engine bay after I bought it off the previous owner.
I had also bought a new radiator to help with overheating issues on the current engine.[emoji8]
It's the VSV assy for the Heater Core. See #87240 on http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8716&P=1
This mounts up on the firewall by the charcoal canister. Looking at your engine bay pic, it looks like the bolts for it are threaded into the firewall.
This mounts up on the firewall by the charcoal canister. Looking at your engine bay pic, it looks like the bolts for it are threaded into the firewall.
Ah, I see. Thanks for the heads up. I had someone tell me it was a vacuum but I decided to post pics here just to be sure since everyone here (should) own an MK3 and have more experience with 7M's.