Does any igniter pass TSRM IG-15?
- Thread starter isnms
- Start date
I remember few years ago I did this test to my igniter, it did not pass. I tried another junkyard igniter, it did not pass as well.
it must be a fulty test and or your not doing it right but who know what are the odds off two people doing a test and all of them falling.
Can I ask why even bother with the test at all? Just try another ignitor and if there is a change the ignitor is probably bad and if no change the ignitor is probably good. I have yet to see an ignitor fail in service on a 7m-gte, and I have worked on a whole lot. Not that it is impossible, but not very common. The only way it would be damaged is if your coil wiring was shorted to ground or a coil somehow shorted internally. Ignitors are so easy to get and the outputs are so simple. Just check the dc resistance of the coils and make sure the wiring has no shorts in it. Problems with the ignition usually stem from the cps wiring at the cps connector.
Anyways, the output from the ecu to the ignitor is close to 5v and floating ground, I don't think a 3v battery would be enough voltage to trigger it. I looked at the ignitor signals on an oscilliscope a bit when I did my dual ignitor with 1jz coils setup.
Anyways, the output from the ecu to the ignitor is close to 5v and floating ground, I don't think a 3v battery would be enough voltage to trigger it. I looked at the ignitor signals on an oscilliscope a bit when I did my dual ignitor with 1jz coils setup.
I gave it a constant 3V from a benchtop power supply, didn't seem to be enough either.
I did the test because spare ignitors are NOT that easy to come by in all parts of the world. Took me a while to find a spare one in my city, and then it cost me a heap of money...
I did the test because spare ignitors are NOT that easy to come by in all parts of the world. Took me a while to find a spare one in my city, and then it cost me a heap of money...
I am trying to track down why my rpm graph and my dyno results are so jagged. Everyone says it is ignition related. I have changed plugs, wires, cps, coils and set timing per tsrm. I'm down to the igniter. The one I have failed two of the power transistor test. Two other ones I purchased also fail the same two power transistors. Only IG2 signal passes, IG1 & IG3 fail. On 3 igniters. That is using the tests on IG-15.bigaaron said:
So I go get an ignition module tester. An Actron CP9087:
and All Three fail the same two power transistors.
Yes the car runs with these igniters installed, but I am trying to track down an ignition problem.
Good to know others have had the same results with this test. How do you test the igniter reliably?
I don't have access to an O-scope.
I don't have a problem with mine, but I test with 4.5v instead of 3, for the reasons bigaaron mentioned 
Okay, I'll give 4.5v test signal a try.
But question; Why would 3v be enough to pass on IG2, on three units, and not the other two power transistors?
But question; Why would 3v be enough to pass on IG2, on three units, and not the other two power transistors?
isnms said:
Dude, it's not the ignitor if you tried 3. Jagged graphs would more likely be compressor surge or a boost leak or possibly loose wiring or poor connections somewhere in your engine harness. Have you gone to another dyno?
I've reworked the connections at the cps and coil. The ones at the igniter are fine.
But even if I had a wiring harness that is cut in two, I want to see the discrete device pass it's diagnostic test. Any valid test.
But even if I had a wiring harness that is cut in two, I want to see the discrete device pass it's diagnostic test. Any valid test.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
Call Toyota and ask them why their test sucks.
I never actually test them, just hook it up and go.
I never actually test them, just hook it up and go.
Believe Me, I won't use them again.
Number one had broken tip insulator. All of it was still attached to the plug. Nearly all had loose terminals, that I tightened before installing. I'll be going with the BCPR6ES now.
BKR7E = ISO
BCPR6ES = JIS
Number one had broken tip insulator. All of it was still attached to the plug. Nearly all had loose terminals, that I tightened before installing. I'll be going with the BCPR6ES now.
BKR7E = ISO
BCPR6ES = JIS
sparkplugs.com said:
NGK, Traditional spark plug, 2330, BCPR6ES, 0.032, TURBO, $2.24
^ $1.50 at O'Reilly
I tested my newest igniter with three D-cells. Test signal was 4.8 volts. Same results as before.
Other suggestion was to get the igniter up to operating temp and test :dunno:
Other suggestion was to get the igniter up to operating temp and test :dunno:
If you've gotten the same results as befere, then I'm willing to bet your ignitor is simply old and on it's way out.
The ignitor I had on my car would fail the TSRM, yet the car seemed fine.
Then about 6 months later, I noticed a very small miss - I picked up another ignitor off a 72k mile parts car, and tested it via TSRM and it checked out good @ 4.5 volts. Using it now, and the car runs very very smooth!
The one I have for sale came off a 101k mile car, and also passes TSRM.
Are you sure your meter responds quick enough? I mean, you're testing for momentary continuity!
My meter will show continuity, as well as resistance to said continuity.
Maybe I'll get bored and make a movie of testing the ignitor? :dunno:
The ignitor I had on my car would fail the TSRM, yet the car seemed fine.
Then about 6 months later, I noticed a very small miss - I picked up another ignitor off a 72k mile parts car, and tested it via TSRM and it checked out good @ 4.5 volts. Using it now, and the car runs very very smooth!
The one I have for sale came off a 101k mile car, and also passes TSRM.
Are you sure your meter responds quick enough? I mean, you're testing for momentary continuity!
My meter will show continuity, as well as resistance to said continuity.
Maybe I'll get bored and make a movie of testing the ignitor? :dunno: