Do you need to Prime the oil pump after a fresh rebuild?

arz

Arizona Performance
Nov 14, 2005
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Mesa, AZ
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Me, I made this mistake in the first motor I ever rebuilt, a Nissan/Datsun L28 but they have an external pump that NEEDS to be primed, (ie: filled with oil from the inside of the pump) this is easy to fix this problem. Drop the pump fill with oil turn with a screwdriver and make sure its full and reinstall, set the timing again and your done. Oil pressure builds quickly once the motor is started.

With a 7M I have always done the same (with respect to priming the pump) then before the front lower timing belt cover goes on and before the timing belt itself goes on I put a 14mm socket on a drill and run the oil pump and check the pressure with a mechanical gauge. Its usually less than 30 psi with my old cordless drill. Its better than 30 with the 3/8 drive impact.

Then at first start up pull the EFI fuze or yank the coilpack plug and run the starter and I always get oil pressure very early.

Now that you know what I do, you probably asking "Why am I asking?" I have a customer that installed my Oil Pump Supply Kit, and he is stating that he doesn't have oil pressure on his Greddy oil pressure gauge he didnt tell me if it was mechanical or electrical. He also didnt give me very many details in his original email.

Below are all the questions I asked him in an email, with his answers in red if he gave them.

"Did you build the motor? The oil pressure worked before, the motor was built 8 months earlier.
Did you prime the pump? (apparently he did with the ignition)
Did you fill the oil filter? (the oil filter had oil in it) He didn't really answer that one
Did you have empty Oil cooler lines? (no answer) I assume it did if it ran earlier.
Did you start the motor? (sounds like he used the starter)
If so how long? (he didn't really say)
Did you test the Greddy gauge, to make sure it works? (he said he suspects the gauge may have problems also)
Is the greddy gauge a mechanical gauge or electrical? (he didn't say)
I never trust electrical gauges. A cheap mechanical gauge is best for checking oil pressure on a new motor.

Every 7M motor I have built, I disconnected the timing belt and ran the oil pump drive with a drill and watched a mechanical gauge as it built pressure and I 100% was positive I had primed the pump before I installed it. Im not sure about the 7M but some oil pumps wont draw a vacuum if they are dry? I just did it on the 7M because I did it on all the other motors I had ever rebuilt.

How about a few more details.

Did you actually start it? (he didn't answer completely)
I always disconnect the ignition/coilpack and use the starter until I see oil pressure on the gauge. Then I re connect it and start so I know I have good oil pressure.

You can prime the pump while in the car but let me find out first if you have to."
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Ok YES you do need to prime it ;)

In the old days I had a primer for Chevs that I always used but the 7M is a PITA to do that way with all the crap in the way so my "method" while not "cool" works well.

Worst case scenario is a stock rebuild and a dry pump as it will start the second the key is turned and the pump is going to take time to create suction and fill all of the galleries in the block before the bearings see any pressure.
 

antman

Supramania Contributor
Apr 6, 2005
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TN
Yes, very cool!! :)

I would never install a pump without priming it. Can't say wether all of them require it, but logic tells me to..
 

arz

Arizona Performance
Nov 14, 2005
955
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Mesa, AZ
www.ArizonaPerformance.com
I actually had this idea of doing something similar to avoid all the accusump stuff. If you had a way to run that pump shaft before you started the motor you would be doing the same thing as the accusump without all the extra plumbing.

Dont count me out, I might just do it. LOL.
 

suprarich

Guest
Nov 9, 2005
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ohio
Electric external primer pump is used on several of my diesel motors to prevent dry start. Turn the key and a electric oil pump runs for 15 seconds, then you finish turning the key to the start position. After that the mechanical pump takes over.
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
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Macon, GA
I just took the efi fuse out and cranked it over a few times till I got pressure on the gauge.Thats about all the priming ive done.
 

tlo86

Ninja Editor 'Since 05'
Jul 24, 2005
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RedEj8;1127097 said:
I just took the efi fuse out and cranked it over a few times till I got pressure on the gauge.Thats about all the priming ive done.

same w/ taking the spark plugs out too. if the pump is out i would do what IJ did if its in your options are limited heh
 

83restomod

Bryan
Feb 11, 2008
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clinton NJ
put a drill on the drive gear and removed the valve covers. a falty gauge or whatever....i just dont trust electronics. if i see oil squirt up at the top of the motor then i know it got there since thats the last place oil goes before it droppes down to the pan. i learned this the hard way. had pressure at the sandwich plate for remote filter but none at the top of the motor. if you see it then its there. thats what i go by now.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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RedEj8;1127097 said:
I just took the efi fuse out and cranked it over a few times till I got pressure on the gauge.Thats about all the priming ive done.
With the plugs in you're still putting 150Psi of load across the piston crowns down onto the dry crank
bearings :( (this is why assembly lube is so important)
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
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lol forgot to say I took the plugs out too! I also used some good assembly lube..forget what brand it was but it was red.
I was studying for a test last night so had a fried brain.