DIY headgasket questions..again

[xzeror]

so after letting my dads "mechanic" friend do my last headgasket job and spending tons of money i have a BHG again. What i really want to know is how difficult would a headgasket job be for two people who are somewhat mechanically inclined. The reason why I think my headgasket blew again was the reuse of the stock headbolts, the head was resurfaced but the block was not. Any tips and what tools i would need and how difficult would this be and what should the head be torqued down to. Also would a gte oem work on a 7mge?(http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7mgtestockheadgasket.php) I also plan to get some arp headbolts. Thanks.

 

[CyFi6]

Head gasket job is not too difficult just label everything and make sure you buy a complete top end gasket set as you are going to end up destroying most of the gaskets when you take everything apart. Make sure you torque everything to specs. Make sure you replace the EGR cooler gasket while the head is off with an OEM gasket. Aftermarket ones are crap and have been known to blow out, which requires pulling the head to replace. Make sure the block is not only perfectly clean but completely flat, you will need a machinists strait edge, not a ruler. Re-using stock head bolts is not a problem as they are not torque to yield, but ARP head studs are much beefier. Whatever bolts/studs you decide to go with, if they are ARP you need to use ARP specs which should come with the bolts/studs. If you use stock, 75 ft lbs is what you need to use. Make sure with the ARP's you lube the threads with whatever they ask you to which is usually a moly lube that they supply with them. That gasket will work fine since the 7mge/7mgte head gaskets are identical. Just take your time and follow every step in the TSRM so you don't leave anything out.

 

[xzeror]

okay thank you, and where do you recommend getting the top end gasket set from?

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

Ebay.. 46.00 Just throw the head gasket away that comes in the kit, it will blow! Buy a OEM gasket or a felpro and MAKE SURE to take the head bolts out in the proper sequence shown in the tsrm or that perfect straight head you just got machined will be warped again! Did you do a retorque procedure to let the gasket settle? Probably why it blew again so soon, make sure you also whipe the block and head off with alcohol before laying the head gasket down to get a perfect sealing clean surface

Yes that head gasket is fine for the GE its the same...

 

[xzeror]

thank you and no retorque was done either i was actually gonna message u lmao =] tyy

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

yeah, get a head gasket set off ebay and you'll be set.. Its what I have used 3 times and they are great just toss the head gaskets that come with the kits in the trash.. Dont even look at it and think about using it otherwise you'll be doing it AGAIN!!

Get your head off and all cleaned up, put the head back on with the new bolts and torque them down to 85 ft lbs... make sure you coat everything with moly lube "comes with all ARP's".. All the head stud washers and threads..

Once it is torqued down in the proper sequence shown in the TSRM let it sit over night, don't do anything else to it.. The next morning torque everything to 90 ft lbs in the same sequence.. Then throw it all back together and should be good to go.. I can't stress enough about the clean surfaces it will really take into account on how long it will last.. Also on removing the head like I said and cant stress enough on it, you take the bolts out wrong and you end up with a warped head that wont seal!

Do it right once and not have to worry about it.. I have 9,000 miles on my head gasket and push it every day 10 PSI of boost now and upping it to 12 lbs this week! If its done right it will last you!

 

[miko20]

What kind of mechanic did your job?

 

[xzeror]

one from the hialeah area lol

 

[miko20]

That's common lol thats y i dont take mines to no mechanic lol I Do it myself instead

 

[Jimbo]

I might also make it easier if you put as much nuts and bolts back where they came from after you remove a part.
For example: after you take off the exhaust manifold, you can screw in all the nuts and bolts back on the head to have less of a mess afterwards.

 

[Needboost]

yeah, get a head gasket set off ebay and you'll be set.. Its what I have used 3 times and they are great just toss the head gaskets that come with the kits in the trash.. Dont even look at it and think about using it otherwise you'll be doing it AGAIN!!

Get your head off and all cleaned up, put the head back on with the new bolts and torque them down to 85 ft lbs... make sure you coat everything with moly lube "comes with all ARP's".. All the head stud washers and threads..

Once it is torqued down in the proper sequence shown in the TSRM let it sit over night, don't do anything else to it.. The next morning torque everything to 90 ft lbs in the same sequence.. Then throw it all back together and should be good to go.. I can't stress enough about the clean surfaces it will really take into account on how long it will last.. Also on removing the head like I said and cant stress enough on it, you take the bolts out wrong and you end up with a warped head that wont seal!

Do it right once and not have to worry about it.. I have 9,000 miles on my head gasket and push it every day 10 PSI of boost now and upping it to 12 lbs this week! If its done right it will last you!

when yo say proper sequence when taking the bolts out just wondering how could taking them out cause a problem planning on taking my 7mge out soon and freshing it up just making sure i do everything right the first time. also ive been looking at a rebuild ki on ebay jsut wondering if you think it would be good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-9...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb68ad51f

 

[lewis15498]

when yo say proper sequence when taking the bolts out just wondering how could taking them out cause a problem planning on taking my 7mge out soon and freshing it up just making sure i do everything right the first time. also ive been looking at a rebuild ki on ebay jsut wondering if you think it would be good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-9...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb68ad51f

Torquing or loosening head bolts out of sequence can warp the head. The sequence was determined for a reason, don't deviate from it.

 

[IJ.]

when yo say proper sequence when taking the bolts out just wondering how could taking them out cause a problem planning on taking my 7mge out soon and freshing it up just making sure i do everything right the first time. also ive been looking at a rebuild ki on ebay jsut wondering if you think it would be good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-9...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb68ad51f

The head is machined while hard so it's flat, in use the exhaust side anneals (softens) in normal running (only needs 400c for this to happen), if you just unbolt the head the hard side relaxes at a different rate to the soft side and you get a banana, unbolting in reverse sequence lessens this effect.

This is also why heads "should" be straightened BEFORE machining, if not the head is cut flat on the deck but the Cam tunnels are warped when it's bolted done next.