Diff & Rollcage question

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
I was thinking about this on the ride home tonight, has anyone ever swapped over a MKIV 6Spd rear, and or axels into a MK3, kindof like how some of the 240SX guys swap to a 300ZX setup in the back?

Also, has anyone on here had any experience using one of Autopower's roll bars/cage, seems like a good deal?
 

funky_monkey58

Closing in on 200+MPH
Apr 3, 2006
1,307
0
36
St.cloud MN
TheNewRed;1224711 said:
I was thinking about this on the ride home tonight, has anyone ever swapped over a MKIV 6Spd rear, and or axels into a MK3, kindof like how some of the 240SX guys swap to a 300ZX setup in the back?

Also, has anyone on here had any experience using one of Autopower's roll bars/cage, seems like a good deal?

The MKIV rear has been done. There is a newer thread on sf about it right now.
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
0
0
41
Newington, CT
If you want the cage to be legal for drag racign purposes, by all means, avoid autopower. It might be legal in some lower SCCA classes, but you'd have to check. For drag, weld-in is the only way to go.
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
Slow66;1224787 said:
If you want the cage to be legal for drag racign purposes, by all means, avoid autopower. It might be legal in some lower SCCA classes, but you'd have to check. For drag, weld-in is the only way to go.

Good point, did you see the "u-weld" one? What about it? I think you combine it, with the "race roll bar", but i dont know if the roll bar is weld in?
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
jawsgear;1225415 said:
SW Cages suck ass. They do not fit right and have to be heavily modified to fit the car.

I take it you've had hands on experience with S&W? What would you suggest, making one?
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
Well come on guys, stop giving me these short undescribetive answers. I hear that they suck, have you installed one? What were the big issues?
 

landspeedrich

New Member
Nov 5, 2008
24
0
0
Chicagoland
I haven't installed any S&W cages personally( I build my own)But I suspect the two guys haven't alot of experience with fabricating and the proper fitting of joints to be welded.Especialy in a closed car,it can be trying at times.My suggestion would be to find a small chassis shop (drag) in your state,with you supplying the material and stripping out interior for them.In the long run,you'll have a much more rigid car and more importantly,if the need arises,a cage that does its job.Just my 2 cents Later Rich
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
landspeedrich;1226088 said:
My suggestion would be to find a small chassis shop (drag) in your state,with you supplying the material and stripping out interior for them.

Cool, thanks if i do it my friend and I will be doing it, we have access to tubing notchers, tig welders, ect... Im not really wanting do a cage, i just want to gather some more info. I wonder if S&W's 8 point would be ok?
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
0
0
41
Newington, CT
The S&W cage is an ok base if you want just a basic cage. The main hoop is decent, but could be tighter, door bars may need to be bent slightly to clear the armrest, many joints need to be notched, etc. Its a decent place to start from, but if you're going to make so many modifications to a "kit" cage, you might as well just buy a bunch of material and bend/notch one from scratch.
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
Slow66;1226307 said:
The S&W cage is an ok base if you want just a basic cage.

Thats what i was thinking, maybe snag it to have a basic starting point and work on it from there since its my first cage. I havent priced out some good tubing lately though, how much would modern prices be on a cage like yours Bryan? I dont want to use Moly BTW.
 

Slow66

I think with my dipstick
Apr 3, 2005
1,457
0
0
41
Newington, CT
At my local steelyard, 1.75 Mild steel DOM tubing goes for about $80 for a 20ft length. Certainly not the best pricing, but its close and convenient. Maybe a good option would be to just buy the main hoop and 6x6 floor plates from S&W, and source some tubing for the rest of the cage and cut/notch to your liking. This will save you a bunch of time on the main hoop, and still give you experience of the fitting process. Please refer to an NHRA rulebook about making yours legal for the times you want to run. Another thing i would do is overbuild it. If the rules call for your car to have a 6pt, build an 8pt, etc. The speed bug bites hard, and you'll be glad you did once you go past your original goal and don't have to be worried about being kicked off the track. If there's anythign else i can do to help or if you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask :)
 

jawsgear

Undergoing Construction
Jan 29, 2006
465
0
0
Sactown
www.jawsgear.com
TheNewRed;1226080 said:
Well come on guys, stop giving me these short undescribetive answers. I hear that they suck, have you installed one? What were the big issues?

You want descreptive answers you have to ask for them. I am giving you my personal opinion as I have personally put one in my car in the past. Too much modification if you ask me. I f I knew I had to modify as much as I did in the first place I would have just built it from scratch to begin with. Since that cage I have cut that whole POS out of the car and gone with an 8.5 Cert Chromoly cage. Again, I would not waste my time with the SW Cage. IT SUCKS ASS!

Jeff
 

TheNewRed

New Member
Oct 19, 2007
572
0
0
36
WA
Slow66;1226978 said:
If there's anythign else i can do to help or if you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask :)

Thanks Bryan, ill keep it in mind. I should start on this thing soon, b/f the season rolls around...
jawsgear said:
You want descreptive answers you have to ask for them
OK, exactly what where the major modifacations needed to fit it?