Developed Rod Knock Today....

[Syris]

Today as i was coming home i started noticing a light clicking noise as i barely was on the gas and would disappear as i let off. I pulled into the driveway and nothing at idle but at 2500 clunk,clunk,and more clunk and then goes away at about 3k.

What are my options here?

What all am i going to need to fix this?

 

[NDBoost]

depending upon how bad the bearings are you could get away with pulling the oil pan off and replacing each bearing one at a time. worst case scenario is you need a new crank new rods and new bearings.

 

[rakkasan]

Damn, I hate that for you.....

 

[IJ.]

.

 

[jimi87-t]

Sorry to hear that, I know your pain.
Just to get to the root of all the rod knock issues, let us know if you were running a little low on oil at any point or saw a drop in oil psi, ect.
We have to figure out what is going on with all these knock issues to help others prevent it.
Also what are your driving habits? Are you putting the car threw hard cornering often or anything else that would move the oil hard to one side and lead to starving the pump? ANY info will be helpful to the community, and not grounds to flame you.

 

[mazzer]

ouch.

 

[Briskie]

depending upon how bad the bearings are you could get away with pulling the oil pan off and replacing each bearing one at a time. worst case scenario is you need a new crank new rods and new bearings.

I have a similar noise, almost sounds like valves taping except it comes from the lower half of the engine. Is this rod bearing noise?
Thanks for any info.
TB

 

[jetjock]

I'm curious. Are these rod knock issues only on rebuilt or JDM motors? I'm unaware of a single instance of it on a motor built by Toyota, including mine and I've never run more that 4.2 quarts in it since it was new. I've always driven like I stole it too. All of this doesn't mean anything of course, just that I've personally never heard of this issue before coming here. Then again, I never had the stock HG blow either. Went to 110K, at which point I rebuilt the motor out of sheer boredom.

In fact, at 78K miles I had an incident where I drove the car on the freeway without any oil (a drain plug problem) until it seized. After it cooled down and I added oil I drove it for another 32K miles. The only problem it suffered from was a slight noise where the cam rides in the head. The front as I recall.

 

[jimi87-t]

I'm curious. Are these rod knock issues only on rebuilt or JDM motors? I'm unaware of a single instance of it on a motor built by Toyota, including mine and I've never run more that 4.2 quarts in it since it was new. I've always driven like I stole it too. All of this doesn't mean anything of course, just that I've personally never heard of this issue before coming here. Then again, I never had the stock HG blow either. Went to 110K, at which point I rebuilt the motor out of sheer boredom.

In fact, at 78K miles I had an incident where I drove the car on the freeway without any oil (a drain plug problem) until it seized. After it cooled down and I added oil I drove it for another 32K miles. The only problem it suffered from was a slight noise where the cam rides in the head. The front as I recall.

I know, this is very strange, I just made a suggestion in the "suggestion" forum to do a sticky LINK. My knock was from a piss poor rebuild where they turned the crank too much (knocked just after start up). I have never seen so many cases of knock before in my life.

 

[Syris]

Sorry to hear that, I know your pain.
Just to get to the root of all the rod knock issues, let us know if you were running a little low on oil at any point or saw a drop in oil psi, ect.
We have to figure out what is going on with all these knock issues to help others prevent it.
Also what are your driving habits? Are you putting the car threw hard cornering often or anything else that would move the oil hard to one side and lead to starving the pump? ANY info will be helpful to the community, and not grounds to flame you.

well i wasnt low on oil for i had checked it before driving it. Now i didnt happen to see any drops in the oil psi that i had noticed. My driving habits have been very slow and careful for i just got my tranny in and have been driving easy for its case. I also dont think it couldve been oil to one side for i started hearing it as i was just driving down a straight road.

The thing that is getting to me about this is i just got that tranny from Rak and had that goin and making progress for i was sourcing another turbo to replace my blown seals one. The fact that now i would have to buy a bottom end and noowhere to install it around here is really makin me think about moving on from the supras to something newer and more reliable. I really dont want to give my supra up but its really hard for me to afford it with time, money, space most of the time.

Thanks for the support guys

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

How much you want for the car if you sell? Any pics?

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

Damn... leave it to me to be the only inconsiderate asshole of the bunch. I just noticed that.

 

[Syris]

every supra owner is a vulture in a way

 

[TONY!]

depending upon how bad the bearings are you could get away with pulling the oil pan off and replacing each bearing one at a time. worst case scenario is you need a new crank new rods and new bearings.

Sorry, but no wonder why so many Supra owners keep having problems over and over again--because they don't do thing the right way the first time.


http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/showpost.php?p=17257&postcount=4
&
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/showpost.php?p=17274&postcount=6

The oil clearance between the bearings and the crank is ideally at .0015"
As I keep using as a reference, typical white envelop paper is about .0040"
With such a precise clearance needed, any wear on the crank and rod would throw the clearance way out of specs.
Toyota bearings come in steps of .0002"
That is 1/20 the thickness of paper (the kind I mentioned).

If you do have rod knock, that motor should come out.
And you definitely need a connecting rod for where you had it and your crank inspected.

I will post pictures of what a rod should look like and how it looks like after rod knock tomorrow.

 

[Syris]

man it sounds to me like im going to have to find some close, experienced supra owners to help me out then

 

[jimi87-t]

They / we are trying to help, Also, because this topic comes up so often, the info is already here.

But you few options, if it truly is knock, you will have to pull it and rebuild it. As Tony pointed out, you can't just throw new bearings in it. You have to do it right. Running it with knock will not lead to good things, once I noticed knock on mine, it was pulled with in two days.

A rebuild shop is the only one that can tell you what needs to be fixed, we have no way of telling the extent of the damage.

You, could always try to find an already rebuilt bottom end in the for sale section, or get ahold of a company such as Jarco.

 

[Syris]

Well after reading my post it kinda sounds different than what i meant. I meant by i need to find some fellow supra owners in my area to possibly help me with pulling the engine.

 

[jimi87-t]

Ok, now I see what you were saying.

 

[TONY!]

...
I will post pictures of what a rod should look like and how it looks like after rod knock tomorrow.

Eh, better late than never.
Here is what I intended on showing you all.

Here are two rods: One in good shape and one that is not good.

Compare the difference:

More comparo pics:

& More comparo pics:

I would conclude that if one were to have rod knock, they need to get that whole motor out and fix it that way. I can't see how just changing bearings will fix the problem.

Hope that helps people. :1zhelp:

 

[rakkasan]

Damn Terry, that really sucks ass. Go ahead & pull the motor if you have the time & funds. You be glad you did after all is said & done. If you have any questions, give me a call & I'll help you the best I can. PM me if you lost my number.