Crank Wobble

[MadCow23]

ughhhh...

i just got done rebuilding my 7mgte out of my MkIII targa turbo, and of course i have some problems.
First off i have some gnarly crank pulley wobble. my torque bar only goes to 170 ft pounds, and i gave it a little extra with a cheater bar after that. my guess is its at least 185 out of the 195 pounds. I'm working on getting it tighter once i fix the E-Brake.

** pay no attention to the massive exhaust leak {downpipe cracked getting it back on the turbo} and shes in need of a knock sensor + rewire, and a TPS bad. do you guys think it would be bad to get one from a Pull and pay?
[video=youtube;_8R2Tmh64O8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8R2Tmh64O8&feature=youtu.be[/video]

i took the pulley off and it looks pretty okay to my semi novice eye, maybe just a small part of the rubber is missing on the back of the pulley.

Basically what I'm asking you guys is if i should replace it, or try to tighten it with a pulley tool?

and i know the whole anti under drive pulley community on here because it doesn't dampen? but i don't see how such a small piece of rubber would dampen much, let alone if the vibrations it needs to dampen are so severe i think such a little amount of rubber wouldn't do much to help.

 

[hvyman]

First I'd replace the crank pulley. After 20+ years the rubber part tends to come apart. It's some what common.


Also it's not the rubber that dampens. It's the weight. The stock pulley is balanced and is a counter weight. Using a cheap light weight pulley is going to give a knock.

Use a ati or fluidampner.

 

[MadCow23]

OHHH yeah the whole counterweight part of it didn't even click with me, thanks man

il order one with this next pay check

 

[supraguy@aol]

Also, make sure the woodruff key didn't move out of its slot.
This happened to me in my MR2, and I had a bad wobble, thought it needed more tightening.
Tightened it more, still wobbled. Decided the pulley was bent. Took it off, found the key crushed beyond recognition into the timing gear,
the crank pulley was cracked, and had to replace it all.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

I've heard of the ATI, but not the fluidampner. Where would I buy one of those?

My 7M-GTE is still on the engine stand, with no crank pulley. I've been waiting to see what I can do for replacing it. The ATI is a little spendy, but currently that's the goal.

 

[MadCow23]

The key on the crankshaft?

I looked at it and measured it with a caliper to make sure it was squared and even. It looked fine.
I was thinking maybe it could be the bolt? I didn't replace it durring the rebuild, but I probably should anyway :icon_surp

 

[supraguy@aol]

If it looked normal, then it probably is. Also, check your keyway slot inside the pulley.
Make sure it's not worn, or widened out.

 

[MadCow23]

So I've tried tightening it down even more but it's not really working.
Does the pulley look bad to anyone? In my opinion the rubber looks kinda worn out but would that cause a wobble?

 

[supraguy@aol]

Looks good to me.
You have a pic of the crank snout?

 

[MadCow23]

Il take one when I get home, but in all honesty I think it might be the pully. I made a rookie mistake when I was stsrting the rebuild . taking it off and hit it from behind with a hammer cuz it wouldn't budge, and I'm thinking that could have messed up the rubber.

If its not that do you think it could be the bolt?

 

[hvyman]

Hard to tell from the pic but the bonded section looks like its coming out at the bottom.

 

[MadCow23]

Okay I think I got this figured out.
I took the bolt off and idk how I didn't notice this before but it's warped.

Sad part is my dealership won't have one till next week so I have to wait. But it gives me time for body work so Il live:biglaugh:

Thank you guys for you help!