Just as the title states, im trying to figure out how much i will need to save all together and i have no idea how much it would cost to have the machining done. I know i won't get exacts i just need good estimates. Not in quid or pounds either, i am american and have no idea how they translate to the american dollar. Thanks everyone who chimes in, SUPRAMANIA ROCKS:icon_surp!
cost for machining
- Thread starter supramk3speed
- Start date
what exactly are you asking? there's no such thing as a set price for "machining" unless you know what exactly it is you want done...
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I payed just under $500 for the machine shop to build the bottom end. That included .020" pistons. The head was another $350, but i cheaped out on the head and used a much cheaper, smaller shop... Prices didnt include parts.
I just wanted to get the head machined, blown headgaskets are probably the number one problem these cars have, i figured you would get what i mean. I know i wont get an exact price as i stated above, i just want an estimate. I don't have a home phone or else i would call for pricing myself. There are reasons for everything you know, my reason for asking you guys is because this is the quickest form i could retrieve that kind of information from. I just need a rough estimate so i can save up, plus what a shop quotes you isn't always what you will pay. You can quote me on that.
My recent bill for my new head swap...
Valve Grind - $345
Resurface for Metal Head gasket - $85
Valve Adjustments, Polish Cams, Machine Valve Shims, Machine buckets (for comp cams springs) - 3 hours @ General Labour rate of $82/hr ($246)
Not too terrible in my opinion. I did my own porting and polishing, and they cleaned it up just a touch for me for free with all the work getting done.
Valve Grind - $345
Resurface for Metal Head gasket - $85
Valve Adjustments, Polish Cams, Machine Valve Shims, Machine buckets (for comp cams springs) - 3 hours @ General Labour rate of $82/hr ($246)
Not too terrible in my opinion. I did my own porting and polishing, and they cleaned it up just a touch for me for free with all the work getting done.
Please realize that any answers you get will be very rough. I've paid $250 for standard (but quality) machinework (resurfacing head, block, crank, boring cylinders). I've also paid over $1000 for that same work (same quality, just was living in an area with little/no competition and high cost of living).
That's just machinework. If you're not an idiot and can follow the detailed instructions both here, and in the TSRM -- you should be able to tear down and reassemble everything yourself (verifying proper clearances). You could also pay a machineshop anywhere from $250-$1000+ to tear down, clean, and reassemble for you.
Here's my tip for getting good quality work at the best price:
Start off with something fairly small. Rotors, a flywheel, etc. When you go in to pick it up, bring in a case of cold microbrew (or if they're non-drinkers pizza etc) and pay your bill in cash.
When you go back in for more substantial machinework (head/block), you'll often find that you either get a better deal or the guys pay much closer attention when working on your stuff (or both). Don't be just another customer
That's just machinework. If you're not an idiot and can follow the detailed instructions both here, and in the TSRM -- you should be able to tear down and reassemble everything yourself (verifying proper clearances). You could also pay a machineshop anywhere from $250-$1000+ to tear down, clean, and reassemble for you.
Here's my tip for getting good quality work at the best price:
Start off with something fairly small. Rotors, a flywheel, etc. When you go in to pick it up, bring in a case of cold microbrew (or if they're non-drinkers pizza etc) and pay your bill in cash.
When you go back in for more substantial machinework (head/block), you'll often find that you either get a better deal or the guys pay much closer attention when working on your stuff (or both). Don't be just another customer
Koenigturbo;1391794 said:
That is why I paid $20 for the special tools (2 from snap-on) to do my own.
Local Toyota dealer wanted an arm & a leg to do a simple job,
plus $15 per shim.
So I started collecting used shims, and hit the snap-on guy up.
By the way, the snap-on tools were better quality, and cheaper than buying them from Toyota.
Wow, pricing really varies from place to place. I hope its on the cheaper end since i live in a smaller town, but im sure it will be pretty spendy considering i would like for them to do the valves as well. If it really isn't that bad maybe i will do the valves, the TSRM makes it seem like it could be a pretty exacting procedure thats why i haven't thought of doing it myself. Looks like i gotta save a lot more than i planned for, not just for what the machine shop is going to do but for all the other things i have decided to do since the motor is apart. Gonna give the 7m a good ole' freshening up, and of course slap on a few performance related parts. Still, this is very helpfull for me. I will just save for the higher end of pricing then spend the rest on go-fast goodies.
supramk3speed;1392025 said:
You don't NEED any special tools to set the valve lash (something that machineshops tend to charge a lot to do).
After you've had the valve seats ground (or lapped), install the valvetrain exactly as it was when you took it apart (so when you disassemble, mark each shim "I1, I2, E1 E2" so you can put it back in its place).
Use some blocks to elevate the head while leaving room for the valves to open, then measure the clearance with a feeler gauge (a set is what $5 from Autozone?). Mark down the clearance at each location (I1, I2, E1, E2...)
Then pull the cams out, and remove the shims. Measure their thickness with a caliper (~$55 from Autozone -- but something you'll need for the rest of your build and for the future). Then do some basic math and figure out what size shims you need for each hole. Usually you'll be able to swap a number of shims from their current locations to another location -- and just end up needing to order 3-6 new shims.
If you want a valvejob (I'd recommend it), you will need to have the machineshop do the cutting, but you'll still save more than $60 by setting the valve lash yourself afterwards.
Thanks for all the info ma71, is your avatar your car getting it sideways? Thats cool to see someone use what they build, thats what i fully intend to do. Im gonna lay waste to the tires when i get her broke in!
First, and for most, you have to trust the machine shop and what they are doing well before the cost comes into play. Talk to others that have had the shop work on there engines. Check there references.
To answer your question, my bottom end cost me IIRC $860 and the head was (730+40) $770.
At first the head was $1030, but my builder forgot he was going to cut me a deal If I have him do everything.
So by all means, expect to be around $2k for labor. Also the above prices dose NOT include any parts (cams, valves, pistons, rods, bearings, ect.). I bought them my self, this is just labor that is showen
To answer your question, my bottom end cost me IIRC $860 and the head was (730+40) $770.
At first the head was $1030, but my builder forgot he was going to cut me a deal If I have him do everything.
So by all means, expect to be around $2k for labor. Also the above prices dose NOT include any parts (cams, valves, pistons, rods, bearings, ect.). I bought them my self, this is just labor that is showen
92nsx;1392742 said:So by all means, expect to be around $2k for labor. Also the above prices dose NOT include any parts (cams, valves, pistons, rods, bearings, ect.). I bought them my self, this is just labor that is showen
Awesome! I get to throw a crap load more money then i thought at it! Maybe i should just buy a new head? On HPF they want 1,500 for one brand new. Nah i will just check the pricing around here, South East Texas is a cheap area to live in, gotta love it! My house is a 1400 suare foot home with an acre and a half for 74,000 grand and it is beautifull and that is normal pricing for housing around here. My father in law had a 1200 square foot manufactured home ( nice trailer ) in washington worth 187,000 and it was on 2 acre's. Not much more land then ours to pay that much, oh and don't believe me just check the housing market in Beamont then check in Everett.