Supra needs a new rear main seal. Ordered one from Toyota, it was almost $50. I've done clutch jobs before. After taking off the flywheel do I have to take the retainer off with the 5 bolts? Should I put any sealant on then put the seal in?
Correct way to replace rear main seal.
- Thread starter Fletch124
- Start date
You can go either way - pull off the retainer and replace the seal on the bench, or leave it on and replace it under the car. If the retainer is still nicely sealed against the block, I'd likely leave it on and deal with the pain of replacing the seal while under the car.
The only thing I put on the seal itself was a fine coating of engine oil.
The retainer needs to be cleaned up, then apply a fine layer of FIPG before bolting it back in, if you go that route.
The only thing I put on the seal itself was a fine coating of engine oil.
The retainer needs to be cleaned up, then apply a fine layer of FIPG before bolting it back in, if you go that route.
The oil pan bolts thread into the retainer as well.
I would leave the retainer attached to the motor, and just pull the seal with a puller.
I would leave the retainer attached to the motor, and just pull the seal with a puller.
we did mine with the motor pulled. had to set it down tho after we had my other gaskets/seals replaced because it is very hard/not impossible wiht it on an engine stand.
Mostly likely I will just replace it while its still in the car because I didnt order a retainer gasket. So just pull the old one off somehow, clean up the surface the seal mates too and put the new one in and coat it with lots of engine oil.
well good luck i have gone through 4 rear mains now in about a month. No damage to the crank, my catch can is attached to a vacum source and the seals all fit very well in the housing and yes i oiled them all I give up. plus its such a PITA to pull a trans from the bottom so my motor is coming out and getting some forged internals ..yes i know this car has a 300 mile motor in it i just finished it. Not sure what the deal is my catch can is about the size of a soda can not sure if that has anything to do with it though
To remove the seal you can screw in a screw through the seal and pull with vice-grips.
I had minor grove in the crank and installed a speedie sleeve + the new main seal (cheaper from parts store with discount) and so far so good.
sleeve kit # 99315 Dura sleeve and costs about 35$ at a BEARING supply shop NOT an automotive parts store they sell the same thing but costs double. The part # i got covered almost all of the rear main where as the one they actually list for the supra is not going to cover as much of the rear main width.
It is a bitch to install the sleeve on the car however i did it with much difficulty because the tool used to hammer the sleeve on was stuck on after and i had to cut it off in pieces and tearing it diagonally until it broke off. Then after that you need to tear off the lip of the sleeve. My tip is you MUST cut the lip prior to installing so you can tear it off after installing the sleeve.
I had minor grove in the crank and installed a speedie sleeve + the new main seal (cheaper from parts store with discount) and so far so good.
sleeve kit # 99315 Dura sleeve and costs about 35$ at a BEARING supply shop NOT an automotive parts store they sell the same thing but costs double. The part # i got covered almost all of the rear main where as the one they actually list for the supra is not going to cover as much of the rear main width.
It is a bitch to install the sleeve on the car however i did it with much difficulty because the tool used to hammer the sleeve on was stuck on after and i had to cut it off in pieces and tearing it diagonally until it broke off. Then after that you need to tear off the lip of the sleeve. My tip is you MUST cut the lip prior to installing so you can tear it off after installing the sleeve.
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I installed mine, no marks at all on the crank. My old on I got out with a screwdriver in like 30 seconds. Cleaned the surfaces really well with Q-tips and paper towels.
I machine 1mm off the Seal Housing/Cover whenever I have a new build using an old crank so the seal lip isn't in the old groove in the crank.
when I remove the trans from the engine The seal looks fine no rips tears or any other damage to the seal. The new seals that I used all fit very snug into the housing and I always lubed the lip of the seal and made sure to install it properly. I have used fel-pro toyota and victor reinz seals all do the same thing. The car just puked its 4th one in less than a month the motor is brand new (re ringed and new bearings). I am lost as why it does this. The bell housing is filled with oil right now (not gear lube either). I run a catch can that is vented back into the accordian pipe. I am ready to quit almost.its hard to say just where the seal leaks from since it has no damage
thanks
BJ
thanks
BJ