coolant pushed out

[max-89supra(t)]

had problems with car overheating, so i:

-resurfaced block
-resurfaced head
-arp studs
-1,2mm hks mhg

so i started it today and it was running fine for about 10 min and then started pushing coolant out again!!:aigo:

the only thing that i am thinking that it could have been is that when i put sealant on the area where the block meets the front timing cover plate i put the heat on and didnt torque it down till the next day, do you guys think this would be a problem? what should i do now? im thinking take the head off and scrape off the old sealant, put new sealant on and torque the heat down immediatly, possibly spray on copper spray on the hg? i would really appreciate any help, thanks

 

[gaboonviper85]

When you say resurfaced do you mean you took it to a machine shop? Was the head inspected for cracks? Was the rear timing cover decked with the engine block? What do you mean by "put the heat on it"?

Your post is hard to understand.

 

[supraguy31]

I hope that he Decked the rear timing cover with the Block, If not then he might be out of luck... Dam RTV quick fixes....

More than likely Air bubbles in your cooling System.

When you first Initally start the car up, you should have the front end on a upward Slant with your Heater on. Let the car run at Idle until your Engine temps get to normal. Once your thermostat opens all that air that is trapped behind it will come out of the Radiator opening. Sometimes, It takes 5 minutes, others it takes 20.

add coolant throughout this process. Once the Air bubbles stop for the most part, Cap it, Fill the overflow and take it for a Drive....

If it starts to Blow out of the overflo bottle then yes you have a Problem there.

 

[max-89supra(t)]

yes the plate was resurfaced with the block at a machine shop, and i meant put the head on lol....i thought i did everything right

 

[TurboStreetCar]

push out were? push out the overflow or leaking somewhere else? Could just be because its fresh it will take some time for coolant to stabilize. When the engine heats up it will raise the level of coolant in the overflow to an extent but after then engine cools it will draw it back to the radiator.

 

[max-89supra(t)]

out of the over flow

 

[rayall01]

How much was in the overflow tank to begin with? Did you fill it higher than the max line? On first start up after rebuild, mine was pushing a little coolant until it stabilized, and all is fine now.

 

[mkIIIman089]

So, you did all that expensive work without 1st checking the radiator cap? Is that correct?

If you fill the overflow to the full line, the car should never push any coolant out of the tank unless the temp is catastrophically high.

 

[gtsfirefighter]

Thermostat?

Don't pull the head off until you've ruled out all the easily fixable problems. Go to NAPA and get that kit that tests for exhaust gases in your coolant.

 

[87M-GTE]

Thermostat?

Don't pull the head off until you've ruled out all the easily fixable problems. Go to NAPA and get that kit that tests for exhaust gases in your coolant.

Hydrocarbon test

What the hell, give it a compression test just for more reassurance

 

[supraguy31]

thats what Im talking about when I say once the motor is warm and you are driving it. If you look at the Overflow bottle and there is Consistant water being blown from it (wet frame all the time from the water shout) then you have a Problem with 1. Thermostat or radiator cap 2. you have having Excess gases in your Coolant system and the only way it can get out is through the overflow which means pushing whatever water you have out.

 

[easternguy2005]

I just resurfaced my block and head. Volume checked to match compression as stock with a 2.0 cometic HG. Running 8# boost. Finished last month. Started pushing coolant out the overflow after a month. This is the 3rd HG job for the same problem. Timing was perfect, new plugs. Car runs great. It pushes coolant at boost levels.

I'm at a loss. Going to do a compression test and have the fuel injectors tested. Starting to think the fuel pump or the injectors are at fault causing leaness. This shouldn't have blown.


Bubbles in your cooling system ? Everytime I put a new motor together it runs fine for a week or 2 (not beating on it) and there's none of this bubble or topping up bullshit. When I walk up to a cold radiator and have to put a qrt in the radiator and top off the overflow, just to do it again the nest time I know it's not needing bleeding.

 

[IJ.]

I just resurfaced my block and head. Volume checked to match compression as stock with a 2.0 cometic HG. Running 8# boost. Finished last month. Started pushing coolant out the overflow after a month. This is the 3rd HG job for the same problem. Timing was perfect, new plugs. Car runs great. It pushes coolant at boost levels.

I'm at a loss. Going to do a compression test and have the fuel injectors tested. Starting to think the fuel pump or the injectors are at fault causing leaness. This shouldn't have blown.


Bubbles in your cooling system ? Everytime I put a new motor together it runs fine for a week or 2 (not beating on it) and there's none of this bubble or topping up bullshit. When I walk up to a cold radiator and have to put a qrt in the radiator and top off the overflow, just to do it again the nest time I know it's not needing bleeding.

Time to swallow your pride and have someone that knows what they're talking about assemble an engine for you....

They might see whatever it is that you're missing each time.

 

[max-89supra(t)]

tomorrow ill check the radiator cap and thermostat, and do a compression test, but i just have this bad feeling that the gasket material got hard at the front of the engine before i torqued the head down, so if the compression is bad in cyl #1 then i think ill know for sure, dang i wanna start driving it already the weather is so so nice!! but also why i think the its pushing coolant out is cuz the radiator pipes got hard really fast, but ill double check everything tomorrow, thanks guys...ive done a hg job a few times on supras and never had a problem like this:nono:

 

[mkIIIman089]

So... you just think that ANY mechanical problem with a 7M means a BHG? Sure does seem like it. Your foolish decision to let the RTV dry before you bolted the head down will result in an oil leak from that area I really doubt it will do anything else.

Get a block tester from AutoZone (or whatever the local chain is) if you want to do a useful test after testing and/or replacing your radiator cap.

 

[max-89supra(t)]

hey guys guess what??!!

it was the thermostat-it was stuck closed:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_bigg

im so glad i didnt start taking the head off, oh and when i put the rtv on i put the head on right away, just didnt torque it down right away, i went with arp studs and had to shave off some alluminum in the back of the head to get the last two stud nuts to fit, i wanted to torque down the to whole head in sequence, i shaved off that part the next day and torqued it down, a really good mechanic at my job told me that the rtv should have only gotten hard around the edges, and not in the middle and it should be fine, anyway thanks for all the help guys