code31 & 51...cause motor to get hot under heavy boost?

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

heres my story....*grabs popcorn*

ok, went to the sacramento drags the past few fridays with a few buddies. (was my bachelor party) lol. ran the supra. did ok. first friday almost stuck it in the wall, not fun. now last friday, i got to playing with my aem boost controller, it was after 9 so they were winding down. so i made a pass, came around..made another right away, came around...aaaaand made another....when i came around again, (4th time) i sat for a second just before the staging area, i set my b/c, i got waved on again to run, now this was my forth pass basicly hot lapping, i lined up, hammered the throttle, got about halfway down and it started...idk...hesatating, crackling a little bit, looked at my temp, its passing halfway!!! so i back off a bit finish my run and shut it down in the pits...

now when i let off at the end of track, i got a cel, so i pull the codes, 31 and 51. ive never gotten those before. quick run down on a few mods, 60-1 ball bearing comp turbo, 550's with lex afm ams intercooler full 3" turbo back no cat fluidyne rad with twin fans with dakota digital fan controller on ported head stock block running an average of 17 psi. my afr's never went lean, its also idling at about 1200 rpm

i drove it today to work, and i punched it getting on 99, and the temp went up again and the cel came on again and went right back off like before. my ??? is could these codes be causing this hesatating? and if the sensor was malfunctioning wouldnt it stay on instead of the light going back off??? thanks for the help.

f.y.i, look up "cory supra" on youtube if u wanna see me smoke my clutch and get spanked by my buddies tempest!! lol and the official is yelling at me "next time you hit third gear and you almost spin it into the wall back off, if i gotta peel you and this zankoku supra off the wall im gonna be pissed" lmfao...

 

[IwantMKIII]

31 is an AFM issue which could cause some problems, but 51 won't. 51 is your TPS, it is not properly calibrated to let your ECU know your throttle plate is closed. Easiest way to adjust this is turn on the ign and have your codes flashing. Adjust your TPS very very slightly until 51 goes away, it is a real time code. If you want the more in depth way, refer to TSRM and be sure your TPS is within proper voltage range at the closed position (0-1V closed IIRC, my setting is about .555V before 51 goes away, it will vary on the TPS, .550 is out of range for me and 51 will come up again). This may be a good time to simply take off and make sure your TPS is still in good shape. If it hasn't been replaced before, it probably should be.

 

[hvyman]

Iirc both his afm and tps are brand new pretty recently so i doubt that's the problem but who knows.

I would get some better efans or go back to mech fan with the heat up there cory.

Also i remember you telling me that its gotten hot a while ago maybe the hg decided to go.

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

i totally re did the upper motor. hg was blown between all the cyl. as rookie as this is for me. the whole problem was that my tps came unplugged somehow, lol. i know i know, dumb ass. lol.

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

oh, and the elec fans with the dakota controller i have on there works amazing, when you shut the car off they come on to any amount of time you want so the turbo heat isnt cooking all your hard work under the hood, lol. mine run for 4 min. and cools the bay a considerable amount. one of my fav mods i did to it. that and the "stock looking" turbo, haha

oh and yes kyle EVERYTHING is new under the hood...dealer new, so i knew it couldnt be that. im suprised i didnt catch too much shit for my rookie oversite on the plug, lmao.