Code 51, runs the same without TPS plugged in

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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So my car all of a sudden started Idleing around 2k rpm. I redid all my IC piping, vacuum lines n everything. TPS tested good as per tsrm, afm is good idk what it could be. I have a code 51 right now (A/C button off, I dnt even have anymore)

When I pull the TPS plug out it stays the same at around 2k, isnt it supposed to run different with out it plugged in?

When I hit the gas real quick it sputters for a brief sec then revs up normal. If I give gas gradually it's normal too.

When I put in drive or reverse, it goes down to around 650, but that's because it's got load now. When I put back in park or neutral, it gies back up to 2k.

:1zhelp:
 

mk3-4-me

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i did do ALOT of searching all day and i havnt really understood anything new. Just stock 7mgte, i recalibrated my TPS as per tsrm about 2 months ago when it was doing the kinda the same thing. The OHM readings are still what i set it at and are still within spec closed and full throttle. Its just a constant high idle.
 

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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So you prob have a wiring issue. I had a n/a a few years ago with no a/c and i always had 51 cause there was no a/c. Never a prob so either your tps took a shit and you cant see it or your wiring did somewhere. My bets are on tps unless you harness has been hacked. Although only seen bad tps sensors with bad resistance specs. Usually if there good on the meter they usually run good.
 

mk3-4-me

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I dont have any A/C in my car either, the ohm tests all passed. Im goin out right now to do the tests again. IDK what it could be, im pretty sure i had a code 51 before when it was running fine. Idk though.

Well im goin out to test it right now, ill see what i come up with.
 

mk3-4-me

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so i checked my TPS according to this post

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?46793-Code-51

From VTA - E2, my readings were within 0.2 - 1.2 ohms. It was 0.9.
When i jumped the harness connector pins IDL and E2, there was a clicking noise and code 51 went away, which is said it should do if its good.

And the last test i did was between IDL & E2, with the throttle closed should be 2K Ohms or less. My multi meter read 0L, which is open loop i think.

So is that bad that i have an open loop from IDL to E2?

have any of you guys tested it like that?
 

hvyman

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Ol. like as if you had the test leads in your hands? Mine says like ofl or odl. MM say dfferent things but if its saying you got no readin your sensor is bad. Just like the book says if the specs are not within the book replace.
 

mk3-4-me

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well thats the only one that seems to be out of spec. Looks like im gunna have to take it off and see if i can reclibrate it, if not that suks.

So its not supposed to have an Open Loop from IDL to E2?

its just weird that the other plugs are all still within spec, and its not workin.... IDK
 

hvyman

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The entire component is not going to be out of spec always. One thing wrong can mess up the entire thing. Which for you would be the idle contacts which is why your idle is messed up and not your revving.
 

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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so i just recalibrated the TPS, put in on and it was still idling high, but maybe thats just cause it was cold?

i was able to actually time it to 10* now, i dont have code 51 anymore, just a code 52 now. Knock Sensor.

When i pulled the jumper wire out of the diagnostics box, it started to surge up and down. My tach wasnt working this time, so idk the exact rpms, but from the sound and oil pressure, it was between 1500 - 2500 im thinking.

When i put the jumper back in, it goes back to idling high.

i wish my tach was working! lol

any ideas on why this was happening?
 

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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What causes the engine to rev up and down? I just can't figure it out. It's pissin me off. Lol

I checked all my vacuum lines and Intercooler piping... It's all good.

I just don't know what would cause it to be idling up and down.

Could i have a bad ISCV and have no code? Cause thats what i was readin it could be, on a different website.

would that cause my idle issue? when i pull the ISCV hose out of the accordian and cover it up almost all the way, it idles alot better.
 
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mk3-4-me

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and is the ISCV supposed to be closed all the way when you pull it off? cause i took it off yesterday to check it out, and the valve wasnt closed all the way. Im jw if that has anything to do with it...
 

hvyman

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Try adjusting the tps. Loosen the screw and move it. Thats how your supposed to do but with a multimeter until its in spec. Ghetto way would be to move it until it idles at the right rpm and doesnt screw with revving.
 

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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i did just recalibrate the TPS. its all within spec and i dnt have a code 51 anymore. But i think i need another ISCV cause like i said when i cover the ISCV hose up it idles normal-er. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWs3S3I3x24 its just like whats goin on in this video.

I dnt think it clicks anymore when i shut it off. But idk for sure.

When i took it off the valve was still open, so idk what that means.
 

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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there isnt some kind of screw i have to adjust on my afm sensor is there? Cause my original one went faulty, so i bought a lexus AFM, and just swapped the sensor form the Lexus to the 7m stocker.

I keep reading how there is an adjustment screw on the lexus AFM, so im wondering if its idling high/surging becuase of that.

Probably not but im just looking at all the possibilities you know?
 

mk3-4-me

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May 19, 2010
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No I know that... I just swapped out the sensor from the Lexus to the stock 7m AFM... Still using the stock AFM, but with the Lexus sensor.

I'm just wondering if i need to adjust something on the sensor, because I read on different pages that's pol sah there is a screw to adjust the lexus AFM. I'm just wondering if that's why my car us surging up and down maybe...

Idk