Has anyone had codes 34 and/ or 71? I just did a diagnostic check and that's what came up. If you've had this problem, what did you do to fix it? Thanks. I'll try and start troubleshooting later on this afternoon if their are no suggestions. Mucho gracias for the spanish speaking amigos.
code 34 and 71?????????
- Thread starter suprahero
- Start date
I think (but I'm not positive) that I pulled a code 71 (and still have it) and it has something to do with the EGR, but don't quote me on that.
N
NDBoost
Guest
is your car a california car?
for code 34 you either have a boost leak or you hit fuel cut at a high enough boost the car freaked out and threw 34..
for code 34 you either have a boost leak or you hit fuel cut at a high enough boost the car freaked out and threw 34..
Seriously guys...the TSRM (under EFI System) tells you what the codes mean.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_026.html
It would really help if ya looked it up, post the discription of the code, and say what you've checked in the trouble area listed. A good discription of when and under what conditions the code popped up, plus what mods you've done to the affected parts would be extremely helpful. I'm not trying to be a dick...this info is really necessary to get a good answer to your problem and helps us help you.
Code 34 is Turbocharger pressure abnormal. Most common reason (if you have your turbo wastegate shimmed) is the system sees an over boost...guess what, you'll likely get fuel cut too. Boost leaks will have the same effect.
Edit: I just read your other post...the code 34 is very likely related to your BOV problem. You probably have a boost leak somewhere. Or (as NDBoost said) you may have a disconnected/bad wastegate actuator.
Code 71 is the EGR (it's on CA ECU's only). Since you've checked the hoses, I'd take a look at the VSV and circuit first, then the EGR gas sensor and circuit. The EGR cooler may have a leak too. The EGR valve is the last thing I'd check since it's such a pain to get off.
Edit: Since this is a "new" motor...the shop might have just left something disconnected (the sensor). Or mis-routed the vac hoses.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_026.html
It would really help if ya looked it up, post the discription of the code, and say what you've checked in the trouble area listed. A good discription of when and under what conditions the code popped up, plus what mods you've done to the affected parts would be extremely helpful. I'm not trying to be a dick...this info is really necessary to get a good answer to your problem and helps us help you.
Code 34 is Turbocharger pressure abnormal. Most common reason (if you have your turbo wastegate shimmed) is the system sees an over boost...guess what, you'll likely get fuel cut too. Boost leaks will have the same effect.
Edit: I just read your other post...the code 34 is very likely related to your BOV problem. You probably have a boost leak somewhere. Or (as NDBoost said) you may have a disconnected/bad wastegate actuator.
Code 71 is the EGR (it's on CA ECU's only). Since you've checked the hoses, I'd take a look at the VSV and circuit first, then the EGR gas sensor and circuit. The EGR cooler may have a leak too. The EGR valve is the last thing I'd check since it's such a pain to get off.
Edit: Since this is a "new" motor...the shop might have just left something disconnected (the sensor). Or mis-routed the vac hoses.
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Jdub, I appreciate your help, but I do have a print out of the codes and troubleshooting suggestions. I have also posted on two different cars. The code 71 and 34 are on my '91 turbo, and the other post about boosting is on my '89 turbo(actually my wifes).
My 91 was running perfectly until I installed the bicddp while replacing my headgasket. It hasn't run right since. It boggs down while under full throttle, but it doesn't feel like fuel cut. It also backfires. I think it has a boost leak somewhere, but I can't find it. I have checked all of my silicone couplings, and everything seems tight. Just thought I would ask on here and see if anyone else has had the same problems.
My wifes '89 has the new motor and it's pulling a code 52, but I just gave them a new knock sensor and they installed it on her new motor. The car runs good, it just has the check engine light on. I do not live in California. I live in Alabama. I read somewhere in yours or someone elses post about living in California.
I always search before I post a new thread or question. That doesn't mean that I always understand the answer. That's why I post here, so someone can try and explain it to me. Some people just have more patience than others. I truly appreciate everyones help, and I'm starting to be able to overlook sarcasm while being helped.
My 91 was running perfectly until I installed the bicddp while replacing my headgasket. It hasn't run right since. It boggs down while under full throttle, but it doesn't feel like fuel cut. It also backfires. I think it has a boost leak somewhere, but I can't find it. I have checked all of my silicone couplings, and everything seems tight. Just thought I would ask on here and see if anyone else has had the same problems.
My wifes '89 has the new motor and it's pulling a code 52, but I just gave them a new knock sensor and they installed it on her new motor. The car runs good, it just has the check engine light on. I do not live in California. I live in Alabama. I read somewhere in yours or someone elses post about living in California.
I always search before I post a new thread or question. That doesn't mean that I always understand the answer. That's why I post here, so someone can try and explain it to me. Some people just have more patience than others. I truly appreciate everyones help, and I'm starting to be able to overlook sarcasm while being helped.
N
NDBoost
Guest
Thanks NDBoost, I think........Are you calling me a pussy?.........Just kidding. I have my printout on the codes and whatnot, but I don't even know what the EGR does. I'm thinking it's a sensor. Apparently, you don't think I need it. As long as my car will start running better I don't care what the EGR does. My main concern is my boost leak, and I have checked everything. The only thing I have left to do is remove my accordian hose and upper ic pipes and try to redo my lower ic pipe to the turbo again. It feels tight, but that's the only place it can be leaking. I'm thinking that it might have got injured in the install. Crossing my fingers on it being something simple.
Would benefit you to learn about the EGR, even if you think its useless. Also, make a boost leak detection device, read: pressure tester, and find the leak that way. You'd be surprised where you'll get leaks.
suprahero said:
I didn't realize we were talking about two different cars...my apologizes.
suprahero said:
Test your AFM electronics...did you clean the sensor in the AFM by any chance when you had all the parts off? Sounds like the ECU is retarding timing for some reason. Could be the water temp sensor causing the ECU to use the default value...check the connection. Boost leaks can be a real pain to find.
suprahero said:
If your '91 is throwing a code 71...it's a CA ECU. Is your name Scott? I saw you live in sweet home Alabama. Code 52 is a knock sensor...since you replaced it, you may be able to do the knock sensor re-wire and make it go away.
suprahero said:I always search before I post a new thread or question. That doesn't mean that I always understand the answer. That's why I post here, so someone can try and explain it to me. Some people just have more patience than others. I truly appreciate everyones help, and I'm starting to be able to overlook sarcasm while being helped.
I really was not trying to be sarcastic...or a smartass. I promise. :icon_bigg
Going to clean the afm connections right now. Could it be my timing thats making it bogg down at wot? I was kind of wondering if my timing was correct even though we used a timing light to get it set.
Never thought you were being a smartass, sarcastic maybe, smartass never........lol, you've been very helpful. I'm going outside to work and I'll check both cars this evening when their cooler. Hope everyone has a good day.
Never thought you were being a smartass, sarcastic maybe, smartass never........lol, you've been very helpful. I'm going outside to work and I'll check both cars this evening when their cooler. Hope everyone has a good day.
suprahero said:
The only reason I mentioned about cleaning the AFM sensor is I know several guys that did when they swapped to a Lex housing. Cleaning the sensor with carb cleaner kinda makes sense while you got it out...it's really not a good idea. Everyone I know that did this started getting weirdness from the AFM...some threw a code right away...some took a couple of months. All that did trashed the electronic module.
The ECU will retard timing on you even though you've set the timing correctly with a light. If the green connector for the ECU water temp is not connected or if the sensor is bad, the ECU goes to a default value and will retard timing on you...you see the most effect at high boost. The knock sensors will do the same thing if they detect knock...or if the connection is not good. The SOGI re-wire helps get a good connection to the ECU. Gas octane and plug gap affect knock at high boost too. I was getting cut-out like you described approching 18 psi (just not as bad). My iridium plugs were gapped at .030...I changed it to .028 and the problem went away.
Concerning your code 71...you could always get a JDM ECU :naughty:
They don't have any stinkin EGR's!
I feel really stupid when I read some of these posts. I don't know what the ECU is or where it is located, and every time I try to pull up the tsrm, it saids that the page is gone. I will take my plugs out, because I think I remember Tim saying that he gapped them to .040, I told him that I thought it was suppose to be .028- .030, but I didn't feel like taking it back apart, to regap them. I know I'm lazy, but that's the only excuse I have. I'll also try and find my supra manual and check the wiring of the ECU, and see if anything is not connected correctly. Thanks.
The abbreviations were a big problem for me also.. Here is the page that explains them
http://groundsky.co.nz/techinfo/TSRM/01_IN.pdf
The TRSM is now downloadable in PDF that is now searchable. There is a new thread in here somewhere.
http://groundsky.co.nz/techinfo/TSRM/01_IN.pdf
The TRSM is now downloadable in PDF that is now searchable. There is a new thread in here somewhere.
Now back to my wifes 89 turbo problem. Ndboost told me to see if I could move the actuator arm on the wastegate. I tried and I cannot move it not even a little. I'm also stronger than the average bear, since I do construction work everyday. Well everyday that I'm not playing golf. Anyways, does that mean that it is broke, or that it is o.k.? Just wondering. To recap, her car has a new motor. I gave her my turbo which ran perfect when removed from my 91. The motor runs and sounds perfect, but the turbo isn't spooling up good. I removed the stock bov, which was broke, and replaced it with a new aftermarket bov. I can make it discharge, but not like mine. My car does it with very little throttle. Hers takes a second or two to spool up enough to discharge.(ppsssshhhhh!) Does the bov need to be adjusted. I seen it my instructions(the piece of paper that came with it with all of those words and such on it) that it has an adjustment. I've never adjusted a bov before. Huh, imagine that, a carpenter that doesn't know how to work on cars very well. Still accepting any suggestions and / or criticism. Thanks.
Thanks for the link Joel. I printed out the page of abbreviations, so I would have them next time.
Thanks for the link Joel. I printed out the page of abbreviations, so I would have them next time.
The waistgate sounds like maybe something is wrong. It should only take 6.8lbs to open the stock actuator spring that controls the waistgate.
If you have access to an air compressor you can dial it down to 10-20 psi and blow into the vacuum line that connects to the actuator and watch it move. It may be hung up or not letting the swing valve shut inside the waistgate. This should be in your other thread. LOL
If you have access to an air compressor you can dial it down to 10-20 psi and blow into the vacuum line that connects to the actuator and watch it move. It may be hung up or not letting the swing valve shut inside the waistgate. This should be in your other thread. LOL
Thanks AGAIN. If there's one thing I have it is an aircompressor. I have four of them. If anyone ever needs any framing help, let me know. JK. I doubt anyone asks framing questions in here unless it's off topic, but at least it would make me feel smarter. I'll do anything to stroke my own ego. I feel like the dumbest supra owner on here at times, but I do try to help when possible. lol.