Okay well let me start off by giving you some history on the car. It's an 89 Toyota Cressida with a 7mge mated to an automatic. I swapped the motor about 3 months ago with a motor from Japan because coolant was getting into the oil and I just kept driving not knowing because there was no overheating either so the bearings failed. The newer motor is a 7mge I put everything needed from my old motor onto the new one. It ran really good for the first 6000kms.
Now I keep getting code 22 for coolant temperature sensor. I tested the sensor with an ohm meter and got these results:
1873 ohms at 27 degrees cold startup
150 - 300 ohms at operating temperature. Kept going up and down as clutch fan kept going on and off.
So then I decided to check the resistance at the ecu and got 1881ohms at 27C degrees so that seems good and the extra 8ohms is wiring resistance.
Then I checked the output voltage to the sensor and got 4.97volts but I can't find a spec for this.
So I replaced the sensor with the one from my old motor anyways and it does the same thing. I clear the code and make sure it's gone and it will come back in like a 50km drive.
Now heres the real problem that's bugging me. I'm thinking that it's giving this code because of something else. My car stalls or seems like it misfires sometimes when coming to a stop, idling in any gear, basically anywhere when the rpms are dropping to idle speed below 1200rpm. When the car feels like it misfires the rpms drop to like 200-300 then I hear a click come from around the glovebox I'm assuming it's the ecu making the sound and the check engine light will blink once then the idle will come back up to 1500rpm and work it's way back to normal idle. And other times it will just die when coming to an idle or idling and I have to restart it. I've also noticed when the temperature is hot outside it doesn't doesn't do this but when it's cold it will do it more often. Like driving early in the morning going to school when the temperature is around 10 degrees celcius it will do it a few times on the way to school but coming home when the temperatures go back up to around 25 degrees celcius it will be fine and make it home without doing it once. And now that winter is getting closer and the temperatures are around 5 degrees celcius it does it even more. I've cleaned out the idle control valve when I swaped the motor but I took it out and cleaned it again just to make sure. And it can't be bad gas because it's been doing this for the past 2000kms.
Anyone have any ideas what to do?
When I did the motor swap I put new spark plugs, I reused me distributor cap and rotor and wires and my fuel filter because they had less then 30 000kms on them. I've been meaning to check my spark plug wires for resistance and check the spark plugs if they have any cracks or anything unusual.
And now I'm begining to think this motor has a bhg. No overheating yet or mixing of fluid just constant bubbles coming through the rad when I bleed the cooling system and getting gurgling dash sounds from heatcore. It does overheat but that's only if I drive it hard and go speeds above 130kmh on the highway. After getting off the highway and opening the rad cap coolant is low and overflow bottle is full right the top. And I usually get to it before it runs up 3/4 of the temp gauge.
Alright I know that's a lot to read but I wanted to give all the details I could.
Now I keep getting code 22 for coolant temperature sensor. I tested the sensor with an ohm meter and got these results:
1873 ohms at 27 degrees cold startup
150 - 300 ohms at operating temperature. Kept going up and down as clutch fan kept going on and off.
So then I decided to check the resistance at the ecu and got 1881ohms at 27C degrees so that seems good and the extra 8ohms is wiring resistance.
Then I checked the output voltage to the sensor and got 4.97volts but I can't find a spec for this.
So I replaced the sensor with the one from my old motor anyways and it does the same thing. I clear the code and make sure it's gone and it will come back in like a 50km drive.
Now heres the real problem that's bugging me. I'm thinking that it's giving this code because of something else. My car stalls or seems like it misfires sometimes when coming to a stop, idling in any gear, basically anywhere when the rpms are dropping to idle speed below 1200rpm. When the car feels like it misfires the rpms drop to like 200-300 then I hear a click come from around the glovebox I'm assuming it's the ecu making the sound and the check engine light will blink once then the idle will come back up to 1500rpm and work it's way back to normal idle. And other times it will just die when coming to an idle or idling and I have to restart it. I've also noticed when the temperature is hot outside it doesn't doesn't do this but when it's cold it will do it more often. Like driving early in the morning going to school when the temperature is around 10 degrees celcius it will do it a few times on the way to school but coming home when the temperatures go back up to around 25 degrees celcius it will be fine and make it home without doing it once. And now that winter is getting closer and the temperatures are around 5 degrees celcius it does it even more. I've cleaned out the idle control valve when I swaped the motor but I took it out and cleaned it again just to make sure. And it can't be bad gas because it's been doing this for the past 2000kms.
Anyone have any ideas what to do?
When I did the motor swap I put new spark plugs, I reused me distributor cap and rotor and wires and my fuel filter because they had less then 30 000kms on them. I've been meaning to check my spark plug wires for resistance and check the spark plugs if they have any cracks or anything unusual.
And now I'm begining to think this motor has a bhg. No overheating yet or mixing of fluid just constant bubbles coming through the rad when I bleed the cooling system and getting gurgling dash sounds from heatcore. It does overheat but that's only if I drive it hard and go speeds above 130kmh on the highway. After getting off the highway and opening the rad cap coolant is low and overflow bottle is full right the top. And I usually get to it before it runs up 3/4 of the temp gauge.
Alright I know that's a lot to read but I wanted to give all the details I could.
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