I searched but couldnt find much info. I did the TSRM check on the coil pack and it turned up good besides the primary coil resistance, when i put my multimeter on it it jumps all the way to the other side of the scale, my dad says that this means there is no resistance between the 2. I havent checked the igniter yet. When I turn the key it will crank for a second then try to fire for like .2 of a second. I had my timing light hooked up earlier and the light would blink. I just tryed to do that same thing but nothing, no blink.
Code 14 help.
- Thread starter Fletch124
- Start date
sometimes there is a bad connection with cps or even on the coils. inspect the wires and the connection in both locations and give them both a little giggle and try starting the car
Code 14 is the ignitor and ignition coil or circuit...it's derived from the IGf signal. The ECU stops fuel injection with this code. Read this:
http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=868
Sounds like you have a bad coil pack.
http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=868
Sounds like you have a bad coil pack.
Huh. Based on the code it should have been the first place you looked. I'm guessing you guys don't have an ignition scope. Would've pinpointed the problem right away. No offense but how can you operate as a "performance shop" without the same tools found in an average gas station repair bay?
Well your practically saying they're worse than a gas station, and if you "observed" why not just keep it to yourself.jetjock said:
TrqMnstr said:
You have it all wrong. I know some pretty sharp guys who work at gas stations just as I know some real clowns who work at dealers. It was never my intent to offend Aaron or imply anything about the quality of his work. I've never met him and haven't visited his shop. I can only go by what others say and that's not enough to make a true judgment either way. In light of that I've deleted the comment. He has my apology.
Thing is my FPR says that i have fuel pressure but i guess the injectors just arent opening. How could I have a bad coil pack if there is supposedly no resistance?
Unless the ECU receives the IGf signal (the coils actually fire), it cuts off fuel injection. You may have fuel pressure, but no fuel is going to the cylinders.
I assume this is one of the older analog mutli-meters...sounds like resistance is off scale. Make sure it's set to "Ohms" and not "Kilo Ohms"
I assume this is one of the older analog mutli-meters...sounds like resistance is off scale. Make sure it's set to "Ohms" and not "Kilo Ohms"
Fletch buddy, I know this is all new to you but did you even read the link Jdub posted? Without spark the computer in your car won't allow the fuel injectors to work. Therefore verify you have spark first. It's bad to do but pull a plug wire or use a timing light to check for it while cranking the engine. If you don't have spark you probably have a CPS or a CPS connector problem. It'll usually set a different code but it can also set code 14 under certain circumstances. Also, every time you try something clear all codes and check them again afterwards.
As far as using your meter to check the coil pack's primary winding, set the meter to the lowest ohms scale it has and then short the test leads together. The meter should read zero (or a few) ohms. Connect each lead to the coil terminals and read what you have. It's going to be close to the same thing because the primary winding is going to read very low, only 2 ohms or so iirc. Look in the service maunal for the right value. Your dad is right in that's not very much but it's normal because the primary winding is not many turns of wire.
You need to set the meter to the lowest ohms scale you have and look closely at the difference between between when the meter leads are shorted together and when they're measuring the coil primary. If the meter has a function to subtract the resistance (called "delta") when the leads are shorted use it before checking the coil. If it's an analog meter it should have a knob to zero the pointer. Otherwise subtract the value when the leads are shorted from the value you get when measuring the coil.
The dubster beat me to it....
As far as using your meter to check the coil pack's primary winding, set the meter to the lowest ohms scale it has and then short the test leads together. The meter should read zero (or a few) ohms. Connect each lead to the coil terminals and read what you have. It's going to be close to the same thing because the primary winding is going to read very low, only 2 ohms or so iirc. Look in the service maunal for the right value. Your dad is right in that's not very much but it's normal because the primary winding is not many turns of wire.
You need to set the meter to the lowest ohms scale you have and look closely at the difference between between when the meter leads are shorted together and when they're measuring the coil primary. If the meter has a function to subtract the resistance (called "delta") when the leads are shorted use it before checking the coil. If it's an analog meter it should have a knob to zero the pointer. Otherwise subtract the value when the leads are shorted from the value you get when measuring the coil.
The dubster beat me to it....
To clean codes you pull the ECU fuse? Not sure if its the "ECU" fuse but yea you pull out and reinstall a fuse correct?
jetjock said:
Hey, if you can apologize so can I. So, sorry Jet. I didn't want to break balls or get all in your face about it, but I mean, come on cut him some slack. As long as he knows what he's doing it's all right in my book.::w00t::
Ok, it has spark via timing light. When the light blinks is when it fires #1 cylinder it seems like but i can't/ wont fire the others.
I did the check on the Coil pack again it turned up fine with primary resistance being .8-1.0.
My car has the CPS connector delete by the way.
A few days ago i tryed to check the codes but not even the light would come on, the smallest(with power feed) connector on the ECU was unplugged.
I did the check on the Coil pack again it turned up fine with primary resistance being .8-1.0.
My car has the CPS connector delete by the way.
A few days ago i tryed to check the codes but not even the light would come on, the smallest(with power feed) connector on the ECU was unplugged.
i was having annoying intermitent code 14 occurences a while back. it would randomly cut out and not want to start again. then all of a sudden it would fire and go for a while then die again. It turned out to be the alarm. It was a dealer fit alarm. it was spliced into the ignition system just by one of the wires to the ignitor. I found it quite by accident after replacing the ignitor coil and the ecu.
this was on an na with a scorpion alarm system btw
this was on an na with a scorpion alarm system btw