clutch plate backwards

[lagged]

what happens when the clutch disk is installed backwards?

i just put in a new clutch along with a new PP and resurfaced flywheel, (along with my rebuild)

when i first pressed the pedal it stuck down to the floor, so i bled the system and it seemed functional, however the pedal is almost ZERO effort.

the car drives fine, except now that my break in is through, when i go WOT in 4th and 5th gear it slips bad.

i am running the w58 tranny and a stock disk with 10 pounds of boost.

now obviously it might not last too long at that boost level, but i would think brand new, after a proper break in that it would hold the power for at least a few hundred miles. (i went for 2000 miles on the stock w58 disk on 10 pounds before the rebuild with no slipping..)

so what do you guys think? what happens when the clutch plate is installed backwards? i am thinking its just not engaging fully.

i know the shoulder side is supposed to go towards the flywheel, but i didnt install the clutch, i had my builder bolt up the tranny beforei took everything home to put in the car so i didnt see how he installed it.

im just gonna pull the tranny on friday if i feel so inclined, but id rather not do it without having a new clutch if you guys think that my new clutch IS just toast.

im expecting to just flip the disk around.

 

[IJ.]

If the disc was in backwards you'd know !

It hits the flywheel bolts and makes a horrible noise!

 

[suprra_girl]

we had the same problem on our ute... i believe the clutch plate was in backwards hence the slipping
we fired the guy that did it not long after LOL

 

[gixxer750]

suprra_girl, I'm having the same problem but with my R154 clutch. I put a new disk and pressure plate in, drove about 500 miles, and it slips horribly at 10 psi of boost. It didn't slip at 6 psi at first, but the first time I hit the high button on the EBC, it slipped bad in 5th and 4th gears. I guess a stock disk can't hold the power increase. I also have full 3 inch exhaust and the stock elbow removed, a 50-1 upgraded turbo(I think), an intake, a ported exhaust manifold and the other goodies. I've heard a lot of people say that a stock disk can handle a lot, but I'm on my second brand new one. It still isn't holding it, so I'm just going to go with some race setup. I'd imagine that this would be much worse on that stock W58 Trans and clutch. I'm thinking hard about putting an auto in my car.

 

[suprra_girl]

i guess it could be a possibility... we made 265rwhp on 8psi with our ute.. stock w58 + clutch... we sold the ute with the clutch slipping like that so don't know the exact details on how they fixed it.. but i do believe they said the clutch was backwards

 

[Ckanderson]

Check this...........

Make sure your clutch fork is loose when the clutch is let out... For some reason mine wasnt and my spec was slipping hella easy.. I spaced out the slave with 3 washers... Worked perfect.

 

[Supra Blues]

I think you'd know right away if your clutch disc was in backwards. Noises, vibration etc.

Dr. Jonez, on his site, used the stock w58 clutch with his turbo setup and said it only lasted him a couple of weeks, which must mean that it slipped like crazy and burned up.

Time to upgrade I think.

 

[aye mate]

Someone on here is using a stock R-154 disc with a stronger PP and made 395ft.lbs been using that set-up for a while I believe. I just swapped in a Spec Stage 2. Have about 600 miles on it and went out last night to burn some old tires up and didn't slip at all. Its a good clutch.

 

[bigaaron]

I am running the stock disk and trd pp with an estimated 450hp at the crank and 395 ft lbs with drag radials and no slipping. WHEN YOU INSTALL A NEW CLUTCH YOU MUST ADJUST THE FREEPLAY ON THE PEDAL. DO NOT SPACE OUT THE SLAVE CYLINDER WITH A STOCK PP. (Some aftermarket pp are thinner which may require spacing the slave or shortening the pin between the slave and the fork.) There is no resistance because the clutch is always partially pushed in and that is why you are slipping. If the fork always has pressure on it then it has to be the freeplay adjustment is set wrong. You can push the pedal in by hand and there should be about 1/2 to 1" of down travel before it starts to push in the fork.You can tailor the freeplay feel to your liking. The online tsrm explains how to do this adjustment and it is very easy to do with 2 open end wrenches. You can adjust the stop point too so it matches the height of your brake pedal. Correctly adjusted pedals makes you faster.

 

[lagged]

I am running the stock disk and trd pp with an estimated 450hp at the crank and 395 ft lbs with drag radials and no slipping. WHEN YOU INSTALL A NEW CLUTCH YOU MUST ADJUST THE FREEPLAY ON THE PEDAL. DO NOT SPACE OUT THE SLAVE CYLINDER. There is no resistance because the clutch is always partially pushed in and that is why you are slipping. If the fork always has pressure on it then it has to be the freeplay adjustment is set wrong. You can push the pedal in by hand and there should be about 1/2 to 1" of down travel before it starts to push in the fork.You can tailor the freeplay feel to your liking. The online tsrm explains how to do this adjustment and it is very easy to do with 2 open end wrenches.

i think this is my problem.

i used the stock disk before and i never got to the point where it started to slip. this is a new clutch disk so i think it should hold up for at least a few hundred miles.

i just checked before and the fork does always have pressure on it. will set the clutch freeplay tomorrow.

thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Blue87T(Dan)]

Nice answer Aaron.

Lagged-Please post and let everyone know if this fixes the issue.

 

[lagged]

well i adjusted it but to no avail.

the pedal still is zero effort. it feels a little spongy still so i will bleed it some more, but i am starting to think that i have a defective pressure plate. my clutch kit came from NAPA.

ill probably get a new PP from toyota and a SPEC disk to throw in there sometime before june 11.

 

[MisterTurbineTwister]

It could be that you killed it driving it unadjusted too. I would just tell the guy that put the pressure plate in that he owes you a new one and a new throw out bearing for having it improperly bled and adjusted.

Make sure you resurface your flywheel when you get a new kit with a new throw out bearing, as a slipping clutch will create mass amounts of heat and could have warped, glazed or even cracked your flywheel along with the pressure plate and could have destroyed the throwout bearing, always having pressure on it like that.

Just get rid of the bad stuff and start over. You'll nail it.

 

[bigaaron]

Well I don't know what else could be causing this but if it was a problem with bleeding the line then you would have problems shifting into gear because the clutch would not disengage fully, you would not have a clutch slipping issue from that. Good luck.

 

[lagged]

yeah thats the thing, the car drives exactly as it should. it really just feels like theres nothing there.

ive bled through two bottles of brake fluid, adjusted the freeplay (which wasnt that bad to begin with) and there still is zero resistance in the pedal.

i dont know for sure but i am starting to think i just installed shitty parts.

any body have any experience with NAPA clutch components?

 

[gotboost$]

yeah thats the thing, the car drives exactly as it should. it really just feels like theres nothing there.

ive bled through two bottles of brake fluid, adjusted the freeplay (which wasnt that bad to begin with) and there still is zero resistance in the pedal.

i dont know for sure but i am starting to think i just installed shitty parts.

any body have any experience with NAPA clutch components?

Brake fluid??? :wuteva: I thought our cars used reguar 50w90 gear/clutch oil for the hydraulic clutch engagement system? I'm converting from an auto to a R154 right now so I don't know for sure.

But i have never heard of using brake fluid in a hydraulic clutch system.
If I'm right this might be youre problem because brake fluid is much more fluid than clutch oil to acheive a high boiling point... thus making it a lot less pedal effort to force it through the lines

Again "IF" i'm right about the brake fluid thing, you might have destroyed youre clutch lines, master and slave cylinders. Brake fluid is some nasty ass shit. Wouldn't be too expencive to replace all of that... less than $200 for stock parts Like $250 if you go with SS lines.

Guys Am I crazy thinkin this?? :eek2:

 

[gotboost$]

Napa is usually really good shit. Except their "GOLD" brake pads, the ones that have a lifetime replacement warrenty. They eat the fuck out of you're rotors, because of their super-harsh pad material.

cute huh?

Thats why they have a lifetime guarentee, they figure if you wear them out, you're allready gone thorugh 5 sets of rotors because of the cock-suckers, the only humane thing would be to give you more "GOLD" rated pads so you can fuck up another 5 sets...

 

[Boostedstr8six]

Brake fluid??? :wuteva: I thought our cars used reguar 50w90 gear/clutch oil for the hydraulic clutch engagement system? I'm converting from an auto to a R154 right now so I don't know for sure.

But i have never heard of using brake fluid in a hydraulic clutch system.
If I'm right this might be youre problem because brake fluid is much more fluid than clutch oil to acheive a high boiling point... thus making it a lot less pedal effort to force it through the lines

:umno:

 

[lagged]

Guys Am I crazy thinkin this??

yes.

it says use DOT 3 brake fluid right on the cap for the clutch master cylinder.

 

[bigaaron]

Use brake fluid.