clutch change
- Thread starter madseacow
- Start date
plenty of people use the stock PP with an upgraded clutch disk with good results.
ask drjonez what he thinks about after market pressure plates for the 7M.
ask drjonez what he thinks about after market pressure plates for the 7M.
It's odd when it comes to clutches, the less material the better they hold...A 6-puck will hold better than a full disc, same as a 4-puck will hold better than a 6.
Break-in will probably vary depending on the manufacturer. I personally just drive like I usually would.
Break-in will probably vary depending on the manufacturer. I personally just drive like I usually would.
oneandgone said:
its not the less material, its that instead of the clamping force being spread out evenly across the flywheel, more of the pressure is exerted on concentrated areas.
siman said:
yeah, THAT makes a ton of sense.
here you go: to take out the tranny you have 8 bolts around the bellhousing, four bolts for the tranny support, plus four more (6 if you have the stock DS with CB) bolts.
to pull the motor you have: two motor mount nuts, fuel lines, wireharness to take out, power steering lines to remove, intercooler piping to take out, youve got to pull the radiator, AND do all of the above.
it really isnt hard to drop the tranny. and to pull the motor+tranny is not simpler.
Agreed. I can drop the tranny with a buddy who knows what they are doing in under 3 hours.lagged said:
Pulling the engine takes nearly a day of prepwork and then an hour with the hoist.
I too can say that to pull a motor the fastest me and my mate have done it was in 4hrs.Putting it back in is something else.The hardest part of the clutch change (i have only just installed mine after filling and sanding the gunk off the inputshaft) and it is to line it up and push in the inputshaft.The top bellhousing bolts are not so hard to get to.Just think of happy thoughts while ur turning the bolt "an ants dick at a time" or drop the tranny n go over the top.(havnt tried but may in the future)
i droped the trans with a friend without pulling the motor. if i can do it than so could you. just angle the tranny to get at the top bolt and the starter bolt and the rest is cake. gettig the input shaft into the pilot bearing wasnt too hard for me, i just lined it up and it was in, maybe a lucky shot.
I pulled the tranny with car on jack stands.. I must say, the harder part was dropping the tranny with two floor jacks, and hardest was lifting the tranny back in with two floor jacks.. but doable.. with a buddy (a must!). I installed ClutchMaster Stage I (stock disk with modified PP .. it works flawless... kinda expensive to go with CM.. but good quality.. no chattering..good pedal feel.. etc).
ok, I finally got 'er off and the clutch looks... ok... but there are heat discolorations on the flywheel (recently resurfaced) and pressure plate (was new) what does this tell me since my clutch still has ribs and looks ok? is it ok to go ahead and put the new disc in? or should I get a new PP and resurface the flywheel?
PP is cheap enough to replace, and you should always resurface the flywheel. if you are that tight on cash you can get the PP resurfaced as well instead of replacing it.
Heat is usually from riding the clutch. Either that or your pedal is adjusted so that the clutch cannot fully engage. Did you pedal affect the clutch at the top or the bottom of it's throw?