Clunk sound from rear- Anyone ever had a bad half shaft?

[supraguy@aol]

I searched for 'clunk', but came up with nothing.
I've been getting a noise from the rear end for a little while now, noticeable when changing from reverse to first, or when shifting. I replaced the diff with another one(also because the pinion seal was leaking), but it didn't change the sound. So i'm wondering if anyone's ever had a bad half shaft-
The driveshaft is basically new, and all mounts to the diff are tight. Any ideas about this- please toss them out here.

Thanks.

 

[benchwarmer]

What kind of shaft are you running? The stock shaft uses non-rebuildable u-joints and they make a 'clunk' sound when wearing out.

 

[rakkasan]

sounds like drive shaft U-joints to me as well. Easy to check, grab the drive shaft and check for torsional play.

 

[Poodles]

The half-shafts (axles) usually don't wear unless the boots get torn. Check for torn boots

 

[metaphysico]

I had a very bad clunk noise in my turbo because the center support bearing was very bad. Besides that in half shaft do you mean one of the axles from diff to wheel or one of the two parts of the drive shaft.

In the case of the axles to wheels I have never seen them go bad on any car that has independent rear suspension but I have seen thousands of front wheel drive ones do that.

As for the drive shaft itself those u-joints can get worn and make a click or clunk sound, click at first then clunk later. If you need I have two rear sections of drive shafts and an extra set of drive axles if you want to swap them out and try.

The u-joints are pretty easy to test if you can get the car high enough. Just hold the shaft still while rotating the other side. Any play here means the u-joints need to be replaced.

For the axle shafts set the parking brake and rotate the axle where it comes out of the diff to see if there is play between the diff and the wheel to check the two joints.

If you need them I have a couple of axles and a few rear halves of the drive shaft. No front parts of the drive shafts for a 5 speed though. Just let me know if you want you can stop by and swap the stuff out and see what happens, or stop by my shop in Norcross and we can get it on a lift and test it out.

 

[supraguy@aol]

My driveshaft is a DSS (driveshaft shop) aluminum unit with HD u-joints.
And no- none of my boots are torn on the halfshafts, and that's why I'm perplexed.
In fact, the halfshafts look almost new, even though they have 326,000+ miles on them.
I guess I'll crawl under the car and try moving things around some more.

 

[supraguy@aol]

So, I jacked up the car and tried to flex everything.
First, I made sure I had no cracks in the subframe. Looks good.
Then I tried moving each halfshaft with the parking brake set. Not a mm of movement on either.
Then I tried the driveshaft. About 1mm, but i had to use a prybar to do it.
I made sure that all subframe and diff mounting bolts are tight as well.
I'm starting to think it might be gear lash in the differential.

Thoughts?

 

[rakkasan]

So, I jacked up the car and tried to flex everything.
First, I made sure I had no cracks in the subframe. Looks good.
Then I tried moving each halfshaft with the parking brake set. Not a mm of movement on either.
Then I tried the driveshaft. About 1mm, but i had to use a prybar to do it.
I made sure that all subframe and diff mounting bolts are tight as well.
I'm starting to think it might be gear lash in the differential.

Thoughts?

This is your 2nd differential with the same problem, right? I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the differential.

 

[metaphysico]

May want to check your rear arms, I remember I had some pretty bad noises from mine before I replaced them, also it was making it so that when I was driving and hit the brake hard at low speed the tire would buckle in. Maybe try that low speed hard braking to see if its suspension instead of drive train.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Well, it'l clunk before I even get the car moving- as soon as the clutch engages the drivetrain.

 

[BJ91T]

Subframe Bushings or a broken subframe would be my guess, Mine broke and I could not see the damage until it was removed from the car

 

[supraguy@aol]

I tried flexing the subframe from all angles, using a prybar.
The subframe bushings are brand new nylon units purchased from Becauseican.

 

[metaphysico]

Well if you have time tomorrow (Saturday), bring it up to my shop and we can get it up on a lift and test everything out. The inspection will be free so there is nothing to lose, just a drive to Norcross. Were at the corner of Spalding and Holcomb Bridge if your familiar with the area.

 

[Poodles]

Did you check the spherical joints in the hubs?

 

[supraguy@aol]

Can't, meta-
Just left town, and won't be back for a week.
Poodles- are those the bushings on the lower suspension arms?

 

[Poodles]

Yep, if they wear, they clunk. Seeing as you have a shitload of milage on the car...

 

[supra90turbo]

My Supra has 90k on it and it's doing exactly what supraguy's car is doing. I hope it's not the subframe, and I can't see anything wrong underneath...

Sub'd for answers!

 

[supraguy@aol]

Say Poodles- Do you(or anyone else) know if the Energy suspension kit includes the
#1 and #2 lower arm bushings in question?

 

[Poodles]

Nope, they don't. They're not bushings like what energy makes, they're closer to a ball joint and from what I understand, a royal pain to press out and in.

Gotta get em from the dealer.

 

[te72]

Just had my clutch replaced and now I'm getting the same clunk between shifts or whenever I go from no throttle to any throttle... This has given me lots of things to check out.