Chrsitmas travel emergency

[IwantMKIII]

Well a week and a half ago i did a boost leak test. We heard a POP noise during which and heard air leaking towards the front of the engine. We couldn't figure out what it was. People suggested it was the ISC valve but it didn't sound like it was coming from there.

Well i've noticed my oil levels drastically dropping. I went through almost 4 quarts of oil in a few days and about 50 miles tops. I went to the beer dristributor and noticed the drips. :cry: :cry: . Its leaking rather steadily out the front of the engine. Looks to be directly below the crank pulley, so i figure its the oil pan gasket or front main seal??

Either way, my engine has 4500miles on it! should this have happened during a boost leak test?! i used 15lbs during the test. The pop occured when i plugged up the PCV system house from the TB so i makes sense pressure was in the crankcase which caused the blow.

So now im donw a car during the most busy travel times of the year and lots of family to see.

Whats worst case scenario for a fix for this. Is main seal or oil pan gasket a good assumption? if so, how hard are these to fix. Must i remove engine to remove oil pan and replace gasket if its that? :1zhelp: how difficult is the front main seal to deal with?

 

[s383mmber1]

Don't jump too much to conclusions. Just because it started to leak oil after a boost leak test, doenst mean the leak was cause from the test. Its very possible it was, but get under the car and find out were its comming from.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Don't jump too much to conclusions. Just because it started to leak oil after a boost leak test, doenst mean the leak was cause from the test. Its very possible it was, but get under the car and find out were its comming from.

well, really though, where else could it be coming from? its directly under the crank? Also, would this be safe to drive for 20 minutes? i mean the car has traveled 400+ miles so far with this problem apparently...could this be a really destructive problem if i keep driving as long as i keep enough oil in it??

 

[st2b]

If you're losing oil pressure, and that much oil, defiantly don't drive it anytime soon.

When I turbo'ed my 5M, we blew the cam cover and the oil pan gasket. If you're leaking from the oil pan, you will be able to get under the car and see oil basically either squirting or leaking from the gasket. It's not really that hard to tell.

And to keep your motor, DON'T DRIVE IT UNTIL YOU GET IT FIXED!

Chances are, it's something simple you skimmed across and driving it on low oil can spin a bearing pretty bad.

Find out where the oil is leaking from, and make sure all oil lines are hooked up, and aren't leaking. Then we will be able to help you A WHOLE LOT MORE!

Just my 0.02

 

[MDCmotorsports]

Sounds like you blew the front main seal.

Its not hard, but its tedious work.

Replace the front main and rock on...

 

[GrimJack]

Sounds like you blew the front main seal.

Its not hard, but its tedious work.

Replace the front main and rock on...

x2.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Sounds like you blew the front main seal.

Its not hard, but its tedious work.

Replace the front main and rock on...

Well, my question is then...how much roughly? and any useful suggestions when doing it?? I've never done it before on any car

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Front seal is a dealer only item, never replaced it, can't tell you how much, but I can tell you its alot cheaper to buy and do it yourself than to have someone do it for you, like 20-50 times cheaper. You have to remove the crank pulley, timing belt, and crank timing gear and it will be staring you in the face. Some like the sheet rock screw method, some prefer a micro screwdriver or a pick, the choice is yours just don't touch that crankshaft. And you better have some big deep sockets to install it, something around 30-35mm should do.

I don't think the pcv system (including the air in the oil pan) should ever see 15psi, but hey what do I know!

 

[cuel]

O'Rielly's and such will carry a seal kit. Usually Timken. Check the timing belt, and make sure it hasn't become saturated with oil. It will start breaking down rapidly if it is. It's not the worst job, but not the easiest, either. Follow the TSRM for replacing a timing belt, and you'll have it licked.

Edit: This would take me maybe 4 hrs. in the shop(guesstimate). Make sure you have a full day to do this.

 

[IwantMKIII]

anyone give me some instructions on replacing the main seal? there don't appear to be instructions or useful info in the TSRM. From what i'm gathering here:

1. Remove lower pulley cover
2. remove timing belt
3. remove crank pulley
4. remove timing belt gear....are there bolts here? if so, any specific bolt torque spec?
5. ???????????

I assume you remove the main seal after that? any specific way....and specific thing i should do upon installation....im in the dark here....please inform me on this one. pics would be useful if they are out there.

 

[cuel]

Follow the TSRM for replacing a timing belt, and you'll have it licked.

Just add the step for removing the pulley on the crank(should be able to wiggle it off by hand. If not, it has screw holes in it for a puller. DO NOT try to pry it off by the front lip.), removing seal(get a big, cheap flat tip, cut a notch in one side, like a hook, and use that to pull the seal), install seal(lightly grease the inside lip of the seal, slide it on the crank, push it firmly in place, then tap it in with a 3" 3/8 extension and a hammer. Use light taps, and work your way around the seal gently pushing it in a little at a time. Should take 3 or 4 times around to get it set), install the t.b. pulley on the crank(should just wiggle right back on), and follow the TSRM for installing the timing belt. Yes, there are bolts in the covers. They're small, so if you try to over tighten them, they'll break.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Like I said, dealer only item. Unless you like installing inferior parts that you will have to replace again in 6 months anyways like most of the junk you buy at oreilys, advanced (I call it retarded), shitzone........

Sheet rock screws threaded into the seal exactly 180 degrees from each other and a claw hammer to grab the screw head, and I use a large deep socket to install the seal, but I already mentioned this and it fell on deaf ears so I might as well talk to a wall.

Removal goes:
1. crank pulley (which is the hardest part of this job) torque value 195ft/lbs good luck with this, only way to torque it is with the starter removed from the engine, yeah use your imagination if you have one.
2. lower timing cover I used 8ft/lbs or 96in/lbs, maybe less, can't remember.
3. timing belt tensioner torque value 36ft/lbs
4. crank timing pulley no torque value, it is keyed to the crank with a woodruff key, and it will slide off the crank by hand if its not damaged by bubba, the previous owner.

 

[cuel]

Really... I've used Timken and Felpro seals for many years, without problems. Even in my own cars. To be honest, I don't remember which one makes the seals for the 7m. It might have been Felpro. Either way, they're both quality seals, just as good as the stealer part.
Why does everyone think Toyota makes all their own seals, gaskets, etc.? More than likely Nippon Denso made the OEM seals. I have yet to see anyone post any factual proof that the OEM seals are better than Felpro. I have plenty of first hand experience to prove that the Felpro/Timkens do the job just as well.

I was only offering alternative methods. Not that your way is wrong, or my way anymore effective. I've used my method of installing seals for many years, and it works quite well. I own and use an actual seal puller, but the notched screw driver will work in a pinch. In tight places where I can't get the puller, most of the time I just use a flat tip. With any method, just be careful what you pry against.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Moral of this story is, on a healthy 7M there is no need to replace a front main seal.

Fords are a different story, actually any american made car for that matter.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Moral of this story is, on a healthy 7M there is no need to replace a front main seal.

Fords are a different story, actually any american made car for that matter.

This motor is healthy, obviously this was a defective part or it woulnd't have happened after 5K miles.

 

[jetjock]

How does stupidly pressurizing the crankcase through the PCV system during a mangled boost test lead to an "obviously defective" part? Sounds more like a defective owner...

 

[IwantMKIII]

How does stupidly pressurizing the crankcase through the PCV system during a mangled boost test lead to an "obviously defective" part? Sounds more like a defective owner...

Sorry if i don't know EVERY threshold number of the system. I figured it could handle a whopping 14/15lbs. So tell me all mighty one, how am i supposed to perform a proper boost test if air simply leaks out the PCV hose. After i plugged the hose even breifly i came across two or three other leaks, wouldn't have found them if i didn't....not that its a good tradeoff or anything. If i upped the PSI i may have heard them but the seal would've burst anyway since IT would then see more pressure, reguardless of me plugging that hose.

 

[jetjock]

Just trying to understand how you think Sparky. I'm not the one who broke my car but if I did I'd be taking responsibility for it rather than blaming parts. Not to mention the PCV system doesn't require pressure testing for what should be obvious reasons. Why you subjected it to such is beyond me.

Btw it's spelled "Christmas". Expect some sort of sign from the real Almighty One. Oops, too late...