Car won't start after HG job, what can it be?

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Cedrock15

Cedrock15

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Hey guys I did a HG job this summer, and went to start it at the end of August when I finished....nothing, it just cranked and cranked and cranked. So I dropped it off @ a mechanic my dads been at a few times to find out why. Well they were on vacation for 2 weeks :3d_frown: , then finally started working on the car. They said they got it started once, but nothing since. It cranks, but just doesnt start! Theres also a moderate/large oil leak at the back of the head they said, and I also noticed it when I cranked it before I got it towed to mechanic. I personally spend alot of my summer fixing it and got pissed it didnt start so dropped it off the week before school started, Im a full time student so I can't be working on it to try fixing it, so 2 questions
1. What can be leaking oil at the back of the head (im thinking head gasket shifted but we checked it for a good 20 minutes all around to make sure it was flat and didnt shift) right above transmission and drips at/around the area of the tranny fluid pan?

2. What would cause the car to crank but not start (excluding timing, and spark and other stuff a regular mechanic would check at first)?
I know this could be a wide range of problems but any input/ or the most common mistakes would really help, because I want to give the mechanic any help and get my car outta there as fast as possible. They were saying they might need ot take it all apart again and i cant afford that at all.

Thanks,
 
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Cedrock15

Cedrock15

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huntin5L said:
well the oil could be from the valve cover gaskets, i had that problem. Also, did they check the compression?
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I dont think it was the valve cover gaskets, I hope thats it though, because iirc i checked theres since its the most accessible place to check for the leak. Im going to call and see if they did compression test and get back with an answer.


mattjk said:
oh, also, if the CPS is in correctly, loosen the adjustment bolt and try rotating the CPS while cranking. I had that problem when I did my HG. Timing was WAY off.
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Doesnt the cps only go in one way? I just put it back in the same way it came out but I'll have them take it out and flip it. But would it being 180 degrees off throw you off when you check the timing or would it not show? Also is it safe to try rotating the CPS while cranking and if so how would you go about doing that just lossening the bolt? The CPS is one of the few parts in my engine i didnt fully understand of fool around with
 
johnathan1

johnathan1

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If you didn't put RTV silicone on the Valve Cover Gaskets, then they are probably leaking, unless you used a torque-wrench to tighten the screws.

For the CPS, you have to line the drilled (concave) mark on the gear up with the notch on the housing, then slide it in with the bolt hole in the head aligned with the center of the CPS flange.

Also check your codes, and all intake hoses, gaskets. I am guessing you are probably having a wiring issue if the mechanic got it started once...
 
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SupraDread

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Johnathan1 took all the words right of my PC. Double check harness wiring and give all wires especially those on the drivers side a wiggle test while u are starting the car and also check your EFI fuse while your at it if u haven't done so already.
 
Cedrock15

Cedrock15

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YESS guys, i told mechanic to try it about 2 weeks ago on wednesday...since then they didnt do anything on the car until this past saturday where they finally got it started my adjusting the cps 90 degrees he said. So after a month & a half my car has started.

The bad news its leaking a shitload of oil, and its not from valve covers sadly but from the turbo oil line. He said he'll do it for about 75-100 and i dont want to touch that engine for a while so i gave him the go ahead. It was a pita to connect it in the first place for me siince i lifted out the head with the turbo and exhaust mani. attached. I had no access, or a way to get enough torque to get the turbo off unless i left it attached to the exhaust manifold and head. You guys have a easy way of changing the turbo oil line gasket that would be simple and fast. Please let me know,

thanks again so far guys for input, especially mattyjk who solved my problem and i repped you up.
 
Cedrock15

Cedrock15

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mattjk said:
sarcastic. :)

How's the oil leak?
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Haha i was hoping so, ddidnt think i was tipsy when I gave you rep, but I gave the mechanics the go ahead, but he wanted any ideas/advice to make changing the turbo oil pipe gasket easier, and faster. I took the turbo off with the head, exhaust mani, and lower intake all as one. Do you know of any way to change the turbo oil line gasket that wont take forever, and easy at the same time? (maybe without removing anything serious)
 
Cedrock15

Cedrock15

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JustAnotherVictim said:
Get stainless steel lines. lol
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haha, i was thinking more chrome. I havent worked in the past 4 months since my car has been down so im tight on money, and need it running as soon as possible, and as cheap (but efficient) as possible.
 
Cedrock15

Cedrock15

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Hey update, car was in mechanic for just about 2 months just got it back about a week ago. The bill was $415 , and said
"Dignostic did not start (after HG job) Checked timing belt alignment, spark, fuel pressure and power to injectors. Found camshaft sensor not timed correctly, R&R Sensor and shaft and installed. Set ignition timing, replaced turbo oil line gaskets (top and bottom, upper cooling pipes and gasket to turbo, cooling hose to turbo and throttle body gasket."
So the cps was the culprit, thank again guys!
 
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