Every now and then...usually once or twice a day, my car will just shut off at a traffic light or something. If I pull up to a stop light or parking lot it will just quit. Has anyone else had this problem? The rpms will go from around a 1100 just creeping along to about 530 when sitting, but if I'm driving and then slow down or stop sometimes it will shut off. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Car quitting at low idle????
- Thread starter suprahero
- Start date
It could be several things, first does it accel. any different than normal? If it is then it could possibly be your ISC valve, another option is if your alternator is going bad that is possible too, because the engine is not making a good spark like normal. Do you have any other info that would help narrow it down???
I have the same problem, narrowed it down to the brake booster. Mine just went bad. There's a leak in it (when I push the brake just right I can hear the hissing sound), so when I push the brakes a lot of the air in the vacuum line running between the booster and the engine leaks out and the engine idles out. I got a new booster...but I live 300 miles away from my supra and haven't been able to work on it yet...so I can't tell you if that'll definitely fix it, but I speculate it will. Good luck.
You probably have a bad O2 sensor, when the car doesn't get an oxygen reading, the fuel leans out at idle, it'll drop drastically at idle but at open throttle it'll be fine, if its fine at open throttle, check that because its a simple $35-50 fix.
I'm leaning towards NA87SUPRA's answer because it does run good at full throttle. It only quits at low idle. I really dont want to sound like a complete idiot, but how would I check my o2 sensor, and how many do I have? Thanks guys.
suprahero said:
Sounds like a problem with the compubar. Try applying inverse reactive current to the unilateral phase detractors. If that doesn't do it try automatically synchronizing the sensor mount's cardinal gram meters. Toyota originally used a retro-encabulator that employed remodial magneto reluctance combined with capacitive deractance. The original O2 sensor setup used a base plate of prefamulated amulite surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two sperving bearings were in a direct line with the panametric fam.
The sensor backplate consists of 6 hygroscopic margil vanes so fitted to the ambol-centric lunar wing shaft that side fumbling is effectively prevented. The mani winding is of the normal lotus deltoid type placed in panadermic semiboloid slots of the stator. Every seventh conductor is connected to a non-reversible tremmy pipe and then to a differential girdle spring at the up end of the gram meters.
Whenever fluorescent score motion is required it's used in conjunction with a drawn reciprocating ding alarm so as to reduce sinusoidal depleneration in the sensor. They later replaced it with a milford trunnion. Your probem could lie in that area so check that out first.
^^^lol, no thats over complicating the situation...
Replace your vacuum lines and reset the idle at the dashpot.
Your idle is too high. If its too high, when you left off the gas, say to cruise to a stop, your engine dies because the ecu thinks your letting off the gas to coast downhill, thus pulling fuel, and killing your engine.
Idle should be at 650rpm. You'll also see improved throttle response... HTH
-Dave
Replace your vacuum lines and reset the idle at the dashpot.
Your idle is too high. If its too high, when you left off the gas, say to cruise to a stop, your engine dies because the ecu thinks your letting off the gas to coast downhill, thus pulling fuel, and killing your engine.
Idle should be at 650rpm. You'll also see improved throttle response... HTH
-Dave
I have the same problem, exactly, and I know my o2 sensor is bad.
I have several in the mail on the way to me. I know because I'm getting
MAYBE 150 miles to the tank on my 7M MKII, I should get 300+
I'll sell you one if you need $35 shipped.
Jeff
I have several in the mail on the way to me. I know because I'm getting
MAYBE 150 miles to the tank on my 7M MKII, I should get 300+
I'll sell you one if you need $35 shipped.
Jeff
Thanks for everyones help. Jetjock, I especially want to thank you, because I should have thought of that first. Always start with the simplest solution........... I just bought an O2 sensor and I'm going to go put it on and cross my fingers and hope that it fixes the problem. Wish me luck.thanks theDave, if the O2 sensor doesnt work then I'll try to replace all my hoses, but I'm not sure how to reset my idle. Maybe I want have too. For the record I think my car is idling at about 650 rpm. according to my SAFCII.
N
NDBoost
Guest
i actually got a headache from attempting to comprehend this..jetjock said:
So the problem lies within the flux capacitor doodadd?
Did you check the starter fluid?
suprahero said:
Sorry, just wanted to find out for myself what a complete idiot sounds like. Much of that is taken from here: http://media.ebaumsworld.com/retro.wmv . How the guy can keep a straight face is beyond me.
Fwiw, throwing parts at a problem and crossing your fingers is a poor way to do things. I'd be surprised if your problem is O2 sensor related as it could be any number of other things and your other comments point to a good sensor.
Do this: Connect a high impedance voltmeter across the O2 and E1 terminals in the diagnostic connector. Either that or connect any kind of voltmeter across the E1 and VF terminals with a jumper placed across T and E1. Run the engine at 2500 rpm for at least 30 seconds. Hold it there and count the number of times the meter delfects. Should be more than 8 deflections in 10 seconds.
That'll give you a basic check and proves the sensor is switching. You'll need a scope to check the amplitude but the odds are if it's switching it's working OK. All this is in the manul btw. Don't have one? Get one, it'll make life much easier. It's online too as I recall.
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yeah, that sounds more like a TPS problem to me. i havent heard of any cases where the o2 sensor causes stalling...
TPS:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_100.html
-shaeff
TPS:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_100.html
-shaeff
Alright, I think I've fixed my problem and the only thing it cost me is.....my humility. After having three college professors try and translate jetjocks simple solution, I canceled the order on my O2 sensor and found a vacuum hose loose. I hooked it back up and the car idles perfect. It did cut off one time after pulling up my sisters driveway(real steep) but it crancked right back up and hasnt quit since. Thanks to everyone for their help. Hopefully one day one of you will have a question about building a house or deck and I can be of some assistance. Keep it between the ditches.