Can anyone help me diagnose my Altima problem?

ForcedTorque

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I have a 2000 Nissan Altima that I can't figure out. I was driving this car with no problems, and had to slam on brakes. At that time, the car went dead, and has never started again. When I turn the key, it sounds like a small electric motor is running, but doesn't even sound like a motor turning over. Here is a list of some of the things I have done, and been told.

The car does NOT have a fuel cut-off!

I first thought it was timing chain. I was told that it has 2 chains. A mechanic advised me to pull the valve cover and see if I see it. If it was in place, then start at the starter. I found the upper chain in place, and after replacing the valve cover noted that it does turn when the key is turned. The motor has a chain from the crank to an intermediate sprocket, which turns the upper chain. Seeing the top chain turn (through oil spout), tells me that both chains are good, because the lower turns the top.

I removed the starter, and took it to a starter repair shop. He tested it, and said it has plenty of life left in it.

I have replaced the battery for S&G's with my Optima Red Top at 13.5 Volts
It loses about a half of a volt between the battery and the starter, so the cable is good.

The crank is turning, as all of the belts turn when cranking.

Compression is somewhat a new thing for me to totally understand. I have a compression tester that was bought recently to test my car. I set out today to do a compression test on this car. The first two plugs I pulled had so much oil in the plug hole that it covered the entire spark plug socket. Could that be from not re-installing the valve cover right?

I did a compression test on one cylinder (other plug was put back in) , and got a bit confused. That cylinder showed a big fat 0. With the C/R's that I have seen on here, a BHG cylinder still shows 70-100 in the bad cylinder. What does "0" mean? There is no sound of any rod or piston trouble. It just sounds like there is no compression.

I also noticed today as I went to check the compression, that with the key in the on position, there is some sort of buzzing in the engine compartment. I started looking for the source, but could not locate it. Could it be some sort of coil or igniter problem? Does that car even have those? It was coming from somewhere near the air filter, but didn't seem to be coming from the distributor.

I'm almost ready to start a part out of this car. If I can fix it, it will keep me from having to find my son something to drive for a little while.

Thanks for reading this far! And, Thanks for any help you can be.
 

Setheroo

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No compression could mean a whole lot of things.

Could mean a hole in the piston in the cylinder that you tested.

It could also mean that your valves stay open for some reason [I have seen broken camshafts before].

The oil that you explained, is a bad sign, that much is for sure.

To have low compression is one thing - but to have none, is really bad.
 

toy fanatic78

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If you have no compression I would pull a valve cover(again) and check to make sure the cam isn't broke,or maybe even the locater pin in the cam gear (maybe it sheared the pin,chain & gears would turn,but not the cam)
The oil may just be a leak that was unnoticed before(valve covers,cam seals)
How well did the car run before?Stick or auto?
The buzzing sound,not sure,maybe stuck relay?It's not something dumb like the heater blower motor running or something is it?(hey it happens,especially when your frustrated)Maybe try turning off any accesories and seein if the sound goes away/changes.
 

ForcedTorque

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Setheroo;1225884 said:
Could mean a hole in the piston in the cylinder that you tested.

When I crank the car, it doesn't show any signs of any compression in any cylinder. I did notice one very faint backfire, but it really just sounds like an electric motor running when I turn the key.

Setheroo;1225884 said:
It could also mean that your valves stay open for some reason [I have seen broken camshafts before].

toy fanatic78;1225894 said:
If you have no compression I would pull a valve cover(again) and check to make sure the cam isn't broke,or maybe even the locater pin in the cam gear (maybe it sheared the pin,chain & gears would turn,but not the cam)

I will pull the valve cover again tomorrow, and check out the camshafts. That would be something that I could fix and save this car from the shredder (ME)

toy fanatic78;1225894 said:
How well did the car run before?Stick or auto?

Car is automatic. It ran pretty good before hand. It did have some rattles, but for 170,000 miles the car has been very little trouble. And, it has been maintained better than most.

toy fanatic78;1225894 said:
The buzzing sound,not sure,maybe stuck relay?It's not something dumb like the heater blower motor running or something is it?(hey it happens,especially when your frustrated)Maybe try turning off any accesories and seein if the sound goes away/changes.

I'll turn everything off while I'm at it tomorrow. It doesn't sound like something trivial, but I guess it could be. Maybe I'll make a video of both that and the cranking.
 

toy fanatic78

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I was asking about stick or auto just cause the fact that a stick,when panic braking sends quite a shock through the drive train.
Seems weird that there is no compression on any cylinder,are you sure the tester is alright?Maybe the pressure release on the tester is stuck/open. Just a thought.Post some videos,it will be easier to help diagnose.
 

ForcedTorque

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toy fanatic78;1225989 said:
Seems weird that there is no compression on any cylinder,are you sure the tester is alright?Maybe the pressure release on the tester is stuck/open. Just a thought That went through my head TOO.

I'm gonna fire up the compressor, and see if I can get a reading on the gauge. That was the first thing I thought, and I quickly tried to see if I could dislodge it, but it seemed OK to me. I bought the tester a couple of months ago, and used it once. It should be OK, but you never know.
 

ForcedTorque

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OK, I have failed to keep promises with you guys. I appreciate the help though. I did the family thing all day yesterday, and didn't get a chance to touch it. Today, I went out and made a video of the car, and also made some pictures of some parts for sale. I came in to upload the video and start a for sale thread. I was called just before finishing the for sale ad, and told I needed to take my daughter to a clinic that my wife found open today. She has Bronchitis, so I got to make 2 Wally World trips to get an antibiotic.

VIDEO DESCRIPTION

The Video starts with the key in the on position. I tried to let the camera concentrate on the area it sounds like it is coming from. It sounds close to but not in the distributor. After that, my son turns the key to give a good look at what happens when you crank on it. Again, all belts turn, and I verified that at least one of the cams is turning through the oil fill spout. I wish I could have had time to pull the cover and verify the other cam. Maybe tomorrow evening right after work I can do that.

Turn up your volume a bit to hear the noise before the cranking. It's not really loud.

 

toy fanatic78

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Sounds like something timing belt/chain wise when it's cranking.Doesn't sound like it has any compression at all(like valve timing is way out.)Check your timing marks,when my 5M sheared the key in the crank,it would still turn the cams,they would just not stay in time.This would explain how a running motor went from OK to 0 compression in an instant,and on all cylinders.
Good luck,post up what you find please.
Best wishes with your daughter,sucks when kids are sick.
Oh,Happy Birthday too,IIRC it was this weekend(saw it in another thread)
 

ForcedTorque

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I got a chance to take the valve cover off today. The timing marks on the tiny little cam gears were lined up with each other. I don't know what else to line them up with. Would there be a rotor or something to also be in a certain position in the distributor? It did appear that the exhaust side was open, and intake side closed. Gears seemed tight, and the chain has got a normal amount of play. Other than that, there was a pretty good bit of sludge under there, but I didn't see anything alarming. I took a couple pics of the cam gears, but I haven't uploaded them yet. There wasn't a place to get a good picture, and I don't know what kind of pics I got.
 

ForcedTorque

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It's starting to give me the feeling that it will get parted out. I think the stereo is better than mine too!

Has anyone heard, or have an opinion on the noise when not cranking at the beginning of the video.
 

toy fanatic78

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Should be at "0" on the balancer timing mark (where you would shine a timing light to set timing)when the cam gears are aligned with their timing mark. I will check back when you post pics.
 

toy fanatic78

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ForcedTorque;1229857 said:
It's starting to give me the feeling that it will get parted out. I think the stereo is better than mine too!

Has anyone heard, or have an opinion on the noise when not cranking at the beginning of the video.

Not sure on the buzzing sound,IMO,I would be worried about why you have no compression first.
 

gtsfirefighter

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I have no idea what that buzzing could be but it sounds like the engine is toast!

It sounds like it jumped timing really bad, and if so probably bent some valves and ruined the pistons. It's just free spinning.

I'd either find a complete engine at the salvage and swap or part out and sell.
 

87nasupra

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gtsfirefighter;1230942 said:
I have no idea what that buzzing could be but it sounds like the engine is toast!

It sounds like it jumped timing really bad, and if so probably bent some valves and ruined the pistons. It's just free spinning.

I'd either find a complete engine at the salvage and swap or part out and sell.

Agreed, I had a 240sx in my shop 3 weeks ago that something happened just like that. Jumped time and bent 6 valves...no compression in 3 of 4 cyls. so he towed car home and sold it for parts. That really sucks man, but if yo uknow anybody wit ha mechanics scope have them look down into the cyls and see if anything is bent or broken.
 
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