Cam Cover Baffle Removal

streetracer_258

Powertrain Engineer
Sep 1, 2009
26
0
0
Nottingham
Hi Guys

Does anyone know how to remove the baffle plates inside the cam covers. I have a spare set that i want to sand blast and will need to remove them to clean out any sand.:1zhelp:
 

Flateric

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
946
0
0
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
This is a seriously bad idea, getting them back in correctly and properly would be a nightmare.

You can sand blast them with the baffles in. Once you are done blasting you just have to VERY VERY thourghly clean and re-clean them out until you are 100% certain you got every grain. Done it myself more than a few times.

Air blast, tons of water, air blast, tons of hot water, repeat. Hot water with a little soap gets all the old gunky oil outa there anyways which isn't such a bad things anyways.

A bigger concern is be sure you don't blast along the sealing edge too much. Depending on how powerful the sandblaster your using its. But it's still decently forgiving bacause the cam seal gasket is thick and forgiving if they are newish anyways.

I recommend the pure glass bead for blasting because is doesn't dig deep into the aluminium esily and it also seems to bring out the brightness of the aluminium (not true aluminium, I believe its a hybrid aluminium/magnesium casting)

Something I just discovered works really well today that I have not seen mentioned anywhere before is using shortening for blasting. Takes way longer but since shortening is essentially fossilized ground up shells almost the consistency of ising sugar it leaves the metal looking literally like it's brand new and never been installed.

Downsides are your blaster and air compressor have to really be able to put out the air and material. I sandblast in a sealed box and sorta reach into the box through rubber glove like access.

If you do try the shortening for blasting abrasive (and trust me it is really abrasive, just very fine) be certain you WEAR A DECENT BREATHING MASK! It's really bad for your lungs but other than that it's totally inert and harmless. In fact it is used for vetrenarian uses in animals to get rid of worms or other itestinal bugs. The bugs eat the shortening as it passes through the animals system and shreds and kills the worms or whatever and doesn't harm the animal.

I put a little bit on ant hills in the summer and the bugger take it down to the queen and within 2 days the ants are totally gone without any use of poison of anytype.

I just gave it a try today because I got a huge box of the food grade stuff in a auction I was the winner bidder of. I have 30Kg of the stuff now. I have also mixed it with water and soap when I have needed a slight abrasive action when hand cleaning parts.

It also has some kinda use for deep fat fryers but god if I know, but it may be cheaper to source through a kitchen of some type.

Good luck, there's my 10 cents worth though.
 

streetracer_258

Powertrain Engineer
Sep 1, 2009
26
0
0
Nottingham
Wow thanks for all the info:aigo:.
I kinda figgered they weren't gona come out but always worth checkin.
Any ideas on how to paint the recessed lettering without just masking it all off. I was thinking something like paint it white and then thin down some red hammerite and fill up the lettering with a syring. :naughty:
Think i saw that on how its made or somethin but they used epoxy.
 

Flateric

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
946
0
0
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
epoxy works excellent, as does brake caliper paint. I just kept goinjg until it was filled up lay after layer.

Epoxy works faster and less mess and chance of mistakes. I sorta just over filled mine and then sanded flat at the end. But I was going for a sorta polished smooth aluminium/chrome look on that pair.

Biggest advice I can give on coloring those letters and strips is to be patient and be absolutely certain your lettering and stripes are extra dry before sand or working on them at all. Because the aluminium tend to make everything black and if they are 1000% dry that blackness gets right into the paint/epoxy and you can't ever really get to "pure" brightness of the color back after that without a re-do.

It's a fun project though, if your weird and into the sorta thing like I am for sure, LOL.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
43
Fort Worth, TX
Easy, don't sandblast the inside. Sand inside the engine is bad mmmkay?

Also, sandblasting will ruin the finish on the casting (trust me, I know) it's better to clean with chemicals.
 

honestabe

Happy as hell :D
Jan 15, 2006
3,713
0
0
38
Mount Vernon, WA, USA
www.cardomain.com
I used simple brake cleaner and a scrub pad to clean the inside of my valve covers. Worked good. Common dish soap is also really good since it cuts through the grease really well. And screw sand blasting, use aircraft paint stripper. That stuff is seriously strong and fast acting, just don't get any on your skin or it will burn very badly (and don't breath while spraying it either, trust me).