When i rev the car in my driveway, after quite a few revs there is water and oil on the ground behind the car, obviously in small droplets. What could be causing this? Not sure if its only during warm up or at warm up and running temp. After 500 miles i would say it burns maybe 1/4-1/2quart of oil.
Burning oil
- Thread starter Fletch124
- Start date
it's winter so it cold out that shit just happens condesation
and runing tad rich will cause this as well
and runing tad rich will cause this as well
Mine did this when I started it up for the last drive of the season, temp was 42 degrees. Running a tad rich and it's just simply "cold" I don't think theres too much to worry about.
Manufactures state that burning 1 qt of oil every 500 miles is acceptable. I do not agree. My car neither burns nor leaks (finally) any oil.
But.....1/4 - 1/2 qt every 500 miles is pretty normal, cause I bet you also leak a little, too.
I always recommend 20w-50 oil for every vehicle/engine with over 100k miles on it.
This will fill clearance gaps internally, AND slow leaks and burning down.
Try this, then see if you still need to add oil between 3000 miles changes.:icon_bigg
But.....1/4 - 1/2 qt every 500 miles is pretty normal, cause I bet you also leak a little, too.
I always recommend 20w-50 oil for every vehicle/engine with over 100k miles on it.
This will fill clearance gaps internally, AND slow leaks and burning down.
Try this, then see if you still need to add oil between 3000 miles changes.:icon_bigg
mrnickleye said:
Especially on a turbo motor...a turbo does not have rubber seals like the crank or cam shafts. Some oil will get past this type of seal..."burning" a small amount of oil is normal for a turbo motor.
mrnickleye said:
:umno:
Do some research on oil film thickness under hydrodynamic conditions like those found in main and rod bearings. 20W-50 oil does not provide better oil film lubrication for bearings and can cause additional wear due to the inability of this weight oil to flow, especially at cold start. This is a myth...it is not based on the facts and continues due to hearsay...period. I've beat this to death the past couple of weeks...educate yourself on the facts concerning bearing lubrication and see the light.
mrnickleye said:
If you are changing your oil at less than 5,000 miles, you are just adding to the profit margins of the big oil companies. Modern dino oils have no problem providing full capability at this mileage on a modern motor. Synthetic oils will go 7-8,000 miles plus...I know guys who run syn oils, do a Blackstone oil analysis every 5,000 and run a true synthetic oil 15K miles and more. The key is good a good filter and keeping it changed.
^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrnickleye
Try this, then see if you still need to add oil between 3000 miles changes.
If you are changing your oil at less than 5,000 miles, you are just adding to the profit margins of the big oil companies. Modern dino oils have no problem providing full capability at this mileage on a modern motor. Synthetic oils will go 7-8,000 miles plus...I know guys who run syn oils, do a Blackstone oil analysis every 5,000 and run a true synthetic oil 15K miles and more. The key is get a good filter and keeping it changed.
----------------------------
Fact...
MOST people don't maintain their vehicles properly.
I see this every day, because I manage a smog & repair shop.
It's simply a matter of priorities. Car runs ok, gets from point A to point B...so they spend $$$ on other things (movies, games, restaraunts, BEER, etc). They are too busy...shopping at the mall...and they don't get some 'cool' new 'thing' in their hands if they get work done on the car.
Most people wait till it breaks before they spend $$$ on the car. If it weren't for the smog test every 2 years, they wouldn't even know that their V6 was running on 5 cylinders.
Many, many drive for months with a 'check engine' light on, because it still gets them from point A to point B.
They don't EVEN know that they could be getting MUCH better MPG if they just did the maintenance things.
When I change oil (other people's, not mine) and it's got 5000 miles on it (or MORE), and it comes out so thin it's running like hot coffee, and it smells like a gas tank,(because there ain't no stopping the unburned fuel in the combustion chamber from slipping past the rings and down into the oil)....and because most of their driving is short trips, with lots of cold starts.... well...
I just know it ain't doing a good job lubricating.
I've had cars fail a smog test because the PCV system pulled in so much hydrocarbons (gasoline) from saturated engine oil that had not been changed for 5-6k miles.
I recommend an oil change before a smog test.
But...it is true that I've always told my customers, that with today's quality oils, and filters, they can go 5000 miles if they need to (like they forgot to do it sooner).
Hey, and guess what, here's something else I could not believe, most owners manuals for newer cars say the transmission and differential, and power steering oil is lifetime. RRRRrrriiiggghhhtttt !!!:biglaugh:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrnickleye
Try this, then see if you still need to add oil between 3000 miles changes.
If you are changing your oil at less than 5,000 miles, you are just adding to the profit margins of the big oil companies. Modern dino oils have no problem providing full capability at this mileage on a modern motor. Synthetic oils will go 7-8,000 miles plus...I know guys who run syn oils, do a Blackstone oil analysis every 5,000 and run a true synthetic oil 15K miles and more. The key is get a good filter and keeping it changed.
----------------------------
Fact...
MOST people don't maintain their vehicles properly.
I see this every day, because I manage a smog & repair shop.
It's simply a matter of priorities. Car runs ok, gets from point A to point B...so they spend $$$ on other things (movies, games, restaraunts, BEER, etc). They are too busy...shopping at the mall...and they don't get some 'cool' new 'thing' in their hands if they get work done on the car.
Most people wait till it breaks before they spend $$$ on the car. If it weren't for the smog test every 2 years, they wouldn't even know that their V6 was running on 5 cylinders.
Many, many drive for months with a 'check engine' light on, because it still gets them from point A to point B.
They don't EVEN know that they could be getting MUCH better MPG if they just did the maintenance things.
When I change oil (other people's, not mine) and it's got 5000 miles on it (or MORE), and it comes out so thin it's running like hot coffee, and it smells like a gas tank,(because there ain't no stopping the unburned fuel in the combustion chamber from slipping past the rings and down into the oil)....and because most of their driving is short trips, with lots of cold starts.... well...
I just know it ain't doing a good job lubricating.
I've had cars fail a smog test because the PCV system pulled in so much hydrocarbons (gasoline) from saturated engine oil that had not been changed for 5-6k miles.
I recommend an oil change before a smog test.
But...it is true that I've always told my customers, that with today's quality oils, and filters, they can go 5000 miles if they need to (like they forgot to do it sooner).
Hey, and guess what, here's something else I could not believe, most owners manuals for newer cars say the transmission and differential, and power steering oil is lifetime. RRRRrrriiiggghhhtttt !!!:biglaugh:
I've heard that AMSOIL has some oils out that let you go 25K between oil changes? Is this really true or just some BS marketing ploy? Does anyone have any experience with this kind?
oil change interval depends on engine, some engines can go up to 15 000miles without oilchange and others need oil change every 2 500miles (like our's) 
4 stroke combustion will burn oil if it works normally. Turbo or not. No drop on the dipstick is an indicator of contamination.
Nick M said:
Do you mean, if no oil is present on the dipstick, its an indicator of contamination?
Just trying to clarify
hottscennessey said:
I think he meant that if the oil level did not drop , something else must be mixing causing the contamination. Something else is replacing the burnt / used up oil...
ViR2 said:oil change interval depends on engine, some engines can go up to 15 000miles without oilchange and others need oil change every 2 500miles (like our's)
You seriously don't need to change the oil that often...if your motor is in decent shape, 5000 miles on dino oil is often enough. You can go longer on a syn oil.
Amsoil can go a very long time...I would not run over 7-8000 miles without doing oil analysis.
jdub, it was written in Toyota's maintenance schedule that for a heavy loaded engine oil change is needed every 2500miles. Normal oil change period is 5000miles.
BTW, Dino oil is mineral oil, right?
BTW, Dino oil is mineral oil, right?
A "heavy loaded engine" means one driven under repeated, severe conditions: Towing a trailer, dusty roads, short trips (< 5 miles) w/ temps less than freezing outside, extensive idling or low speed driving (taxi, delivery, etc).
This applies to maybe 1% of the owners out there (who tows a trailer w/ a MK III :eek3. If you go to the track or autocross every week, you may want to decrease the interval. Other things like oil contamination (gasoline/coolant) will necessitate frequent oil changes, but you got a heck of a lot bigger problems if that's happening.
Yes...dino oil = mineral oil.
Mike - Nick is correct...all 4 stroke motors use some oil. A turbo motor will use a bit more due to the way the turbo seals work (as you observed)...it's the nature of the beast. Also points out why you should check your oil at least once a week
This applies to maybe 1% of the owners out there (who tows a trailer w/ a MK III :eek3
. If you go to the track or autocross every week, you may want to decrease the interval. Other things like oil contamination (gasoline/coolant) will necessitate frequent oil changes, but you got a heck of a lot bigger problems if that's happening.Yes...dino oil = mineral oil.
Mike - Nick is correct...all 4 stroke motors use some oil. A turbo motor will use a bit more due to the way the turbo seals work (as you observed)...it's the nature of the beast. Also points out why you should check your oil at least once a week
ViR2 said:
What you don't have with the repair manual is the TSB's. That is technical service bulletin. It lists recalls and changes that is needed. So if the repair manual changes and you don't know why it would be in the TSB.
Here is the correct maintenance schedule for all 7M's.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23917
I will use an analogy for the dipstick. Take a 5 gallon bucket, and put 4 gallons of water in it. The level will go 4/5 the way up. Then add another gallon of liquid, like coolant. You have 5 gallons of liquid, but not 5 gallons of water.
This is why your dispstick shows full, but you go on a long trip, where you drive 350 miles, and now your disptick shows low, when it never did before. There is nothing wrong with the car, the contaminents were not burned off and removed by the additives in the oil yet. They have to get hot. When they do, the diluting substances are removed, and the dipstick level goes down.
The connecting rod squirts oil on the cylinder wall to lubricate the piston when sliding. The oil control ring takes most of the oil, but not all. The cross hatch holds oil in suspension. The combustion process burns that oil. All 4 stroke engines burn some oil.
This is why your dispstick shows full, but you go on a long trip, where you drive 350 miles, and now your disptick shows low, when it never did before. There is nothing wrong with the car, the contaminents were not burned off and removed by the additives in the oil yet. They have to get hot. When they do, the diluting substances are removed, and the dipstick level goes down.
The connecting rod squirts oil on the cylinder wall to lubricate the piston when sliding. The oil control ring takes most of the oil, but not all. The cross hatch holds oil in suspension. The combustion process burns that oil. All 4 stroke engines burn some oil.
what color is the liquid comming out of your tail pipe? my moms cressida sprays brown peices of crap out when you rev to high, im guessing its rusted metal in the exhaust. something is wrong with the cressida =\ 189k miles i just found out last night it was running on about two quarts of oil :nono: