Built Autos

born2drv

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Nov 1, 2005
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Anyone had experience with either IPT or SP Performance's Auto Rebuilds?

I'm considering one of them (or open to other suggestions) for getting a complete overhaul done and I'd like to hear other people's experiences with these????

PLEASE - If you're not a fan of the auto tranny or beat the shit out of your stock unit, I'd rather not get your feedback ;) Anyone can complain about something breaking that was abused, neglected or pushed outside it's abilities. I'm curious to know how well others have faired with BUILT units, which ones they had, how well it performed, reliability, etc.

Thank you :)
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
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Aug 26, 2005
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I've also been looking for an upgraded rebuild kit for my auto. Can't wait to hear some feedback. I did read another thread about two months ago about this, but can't remember the company that made the rebuild kits.
 

born2drv

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Nov 1, 2005
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Syris said:
i had a "built" auto and it didnt last for what it was worth.......

Cool, but can you be more specific though? Who made it? Whas it a complete overhaul or just upgraded components? ... or just the valve body upgraded or torque converter, etc?

Thank you.
 

toyman1987

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Apr 2, 2005
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born2drv said:
Cool, but can you be more specific though? Who made it? Whas it a complete overhaul or just upgraded components? ... or just the valve body upgraded or torque converter, etc?

Thank you.
You can get a A340 performance kit from Transtar, it has the raysbestos blue clutches, kolene steels, and a kevlar band, gaskets, seals. this is just the OH kit for the tranny, no VB upgrades. if you have a reputable trans shop in your town it would be cheaper than buying a complete unit. they can drill the feed holes in the seperator plate and shim the accumulators.
mine has held up so far 460-470 RWHP I'm going to push it over 550 this year and will see what happens:naughty:
 

jdub

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I have an auto built by IPT w/ a 3000 rpm stall. It's holding up very good...but, you can kiss your feather smooth shifts goodbye, especially in the low gears. Don't get me wrong...the valve body modification causes shifts to be "firm" and distinct. When I had my old sawblades on (before I put 275's on the rear), it would bark the tires on the shift to 2nd at about 10 psi of boost. I had a definite traction problem under boost in the low gears on sawblades :naughty:

I chose the 3000 rpm stall to retain drivability...plus, my SP61GT Turbo comes on boost at about 3000 rpm. I can hold the car w/ brake, get it to 3000 rpm, then release brake and come on boost almost immediately. It happens so fast I have to be very careful w/ the gas or I'll hit fuel cut (happens at about 18 psi w/ the Lex mod)

Overall, I'm happy with the work IPT did...no sign of slip at all. It did highlight other problems I had with the drive train...the center bearing went out (again) and my old LSD started clattering. I don't think the IPT tranny caused it, but just made it worse due to the power it was transferring to the drive train. I replaced the driveshaft w/ an aluminum single piece and re-built a 3.90 rear end with a TRD LSD.

I highly recommend you use a separate tranny cooler from that in the radiator...I used a Long Tru-Cool with a 7.5" Spal fan under the drivers side area behind the foglight.
 

89Turbo

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Oct 22, 2005
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jdub said:
I have an auto built by IPT w/ a 3000 rpm stall. It's holding up very good...but, you can kiss your feather smooth shifts goodbye, especially in the low gears. Don't get me wrong...the valve body modification causes shifts to be "firm" and distinct. When I had my old sawblades on (before I put 275's on the rear), it would bark the tires on the shift to 2nd at about 10 psi of boost. I had a definite traction problem under boost in the low gears on sawblades :naughty:

I chose the 3000 rpm stall to retain drivability...plus, my SP61GT Turbo comes on boost at about 3000 rpm. I can hold the car w/ brake, get it to 3000 rpm, then release brake and come on boost almost immediately. It happens so fast I have to be very careful w/ the gas or I'll hit fuel cut (happens at about 18 psi w/ the Lex mod)

Overall, I'm happy with the work IPT did...no sign of slip at all. It did highlight other problems I had with the drive train...the center bearing went out (again) and my old LSD started clattering. I don't think the IPT tranny caused it, but just made it worse due to the power it was transferring to the drive train. I replaced the driveshaft w/ an aluminum single piece and re-built a 3.90 rear end with a TRD LSD.

I highly recommend you use a separate tranny cooler from that in the radiator...I used a Long Tru-Cool with a 7.5" Spal fan under the drivers side area behind the foglight.

very nice write up, did you send your tranny in and they rebuilt it or did you buy a built one? what was the turnaround time? cost?
 

jdub

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89Turbo said:
very nice write up, did you send your tranny in and they rebuilt it or did you buy a built one? what was the turnaround time? cost?

Thanks! It was about $3K including the converter. Had to ship IPT a tranny...turn around was 10 days after it got there. Had to ship freight due to the weight of the tranny.

There are other auto options...if this one craps out, I'm thinking about using a Turbo 400 w/ an overdrive unit.
 

born2drv

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thanks guys for the feedback.... i'm leaning more towards IPT myself.... i just wish there was a shop somewhere in socal that I could get it done in.

i'm getting my tranny cooler installed mon/tues ... its a B&M 8x11x1.5" cooler, getting that installed with custom hard lines and SS-braided lines.

if i do get a built auto, i'll probably just buy one from ebay or something and have it shipped to the shop doing the build. i'm also getting the suprastick v4 so i can control the tranny shifting points better.

if anyone else has any experiences with getting their autos built, please reply!
 

Jetfixr757

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Mar 30, 2005
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I talked to a local tranny builder in my area and described to him what i wanted, he built it with the kolene steels and blue clutches, also did a mod to the valve body and the pump, the 1st to 2nd shift is quite firm, total rebuild with new converter was close to 7 and change. If i get on it in 2nd at low speed it shifts back to 1st and barks the tires to 2nd, i am running MKIV TT 17's, i am quite pleased with it and no slip, i have dragged it several times and the shifts are quick and crisp, instead of a big intercooler i am planning a 'big' transmission cooler, heat kills transmissions, besides my goal will be met with my turbo upgrade. 400+ RWH with daily driver option.
Jet
 

americanjebus

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Mar 30, 2005
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toyman1987 said:
if you have a reputable trans shop in your town it would be cheaper than buying a complete unit. they can drill the feed holes in the seperator plate and shim the accumulators.
QUOTE]

could you explain about the feed holes in the seperator plate, i already shimmed my accumulators but i havent heard of the seperator plate feed holes, what do they do??

im suprised to see this many upgraded/modded autos on here usually no one speeks up about it.
 

suprageezer

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Aug 27, 2005
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Give Bill at Cres-O-Matic in Hawaiian Gardens a call (714-995-6814) he can fill you in on what you need. If your engine has 1000hp forget it, but if it's anywhere near stock and you don't abuse your auto he can do an awesome job with a great warranty.
Rick
 

born2drv

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Nov 1, 2005
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hey jet - i have a "big" cooler somewhat myself, it's 8x11x1.5, not huge but not small either.... i'm don't have a thermostat hooked up yet, but i'm thinking of getting one, and also getting a oil temp gauge for the tranny and running it into the interior somewhere.

suprageezer - i'll give that guy a call thanks man....... if nothing else maybe i can just buy the modified valve body and overhaul kit and have someone like him install them for me instead of shipping a transmission twice 3000 miles.
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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i have a php stg 3 build. kolene steels, blue clutches, reworked valvebody, kevlar bands, 3400 stall and a couple "secret" tricks.
unfortunately they no longer do supra transmissions. best advice is stay away from level 10.
 

jdub

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dbsupra90 said:
best advice is stay away from level 10.


:withstupi Amen!

Wish I had a shop around here that knows the A340...could have saved me a bit of coin :3d_frown: