brakes
- Thread starter IETV8S
- Start date
remove caliper, remove caliper bracket, remove rotor. install in reverse. dont let the caliper hang by the brake hose or it might crack/break and then you will have to replace that too. when doing the rear make sure to match the hole on the rotor up with the bigger slot so you can adjust you e brake.
if your really not up to the task take it to someone who knows what they are doing as its your brakes.
if your really not up to the task take it to someone who knows what they are doing as its your brakes.
Speed doesn't kill, it's the stopping that does. So listen to his last comment but don't worry it isn't to difficult. Consult your local TSRM for help.
I'm doing them right now, with calipers, I recomend at least greasing the caliper slides as mine where removed from the torque plate only with the help of a 20 pound sledge hammer and a good vice. So...
BUY PB BLASTER, every slide was frozen for me
Have a STRONG 12mm Hex bolt, to remove rotors I was impacting a 12mm bolt into the rotor that will push it out, and the bolt snapped, don't skimp on the bolt
the job is pretty simple, 2 bolts holding on each caliper and it comes right off.
BUY PB BLASTER, every slide was frozen for me
Have a STRONG 12mm Hex bolt, to remove rotors I was impacting a 12mm bolt into the rotor that will push it out, and the bolt snapped, don't skimp on the bolt
the job is pretty simple, 2 bolts holding on each caliper and it comes right off.
^its better to get 2 bolts and evenly screw them in or you can also just spray pb in the center hole and around the studs and hammer them off.
hvyman;1478651 said:
That's what I did, 2 bolts and slowly work them alternating to push the rotor off.
and you snaped the bolt. what size impact 1/2in? i use my makita 14v 3/8 impact for those and usually the the threads will strip first.
1/2 big snapon air impact set to low, was going in slow and I found out that it was a "hollow" bolt full of another material, not a solid bolt, I just found a 12mm and used it not thinking.
mirage83;1478672 said:
Only place I found the parking brake pads was at horsepowerfreaks.com
and they want $100 for a complete set. Ouch the front and rears don't cost that much unless you are putting performance pads on
Poodles;1478781 said:Impact gun = break shit
the bolt was going in nicely as slow as if I was using a screw driver, but the first impact destroyed it, even a ratchet would have twisted the head right off... I have no idea what the bolt was for, but it was entirely useless
This guide in the "Articles" section plus others regarding brake stuff.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97704
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97704
toyzforme;1478864 said:
They're just reselling the OEM pads, cut the middleman and go to the dealer.
Yes, they are expensive as hell, and it's why I tell people that want to drift these cars to not use the e-brake...
Luckily we have a brake shop where they recoat clutch disks etc. and also handbrake shoes for 40 $
Poodles;1478781 said:Impact gun = break shit
BUZZ!! Impact gun = work gets done faster.
...........Brake shit = inexperienced operator.
<----has never yet broke anything because I used a impact.
1/2 impact for a 12mm bolt head is too big. 3/8 impact or air ratchet would be the right size to use.
hvyman;1479538 said:
size does not matter... I can turn the gun down so that I can hold the end from turning, I have to show a picture of the bolt I used that got stuck, if it was actually metal I would have been fine, I just grabbed the first 12mm hex bolt with the proper thread in my misc. bucket of bolts
Also, Air ratchet would not have had the power, and I don't have a 3/8 gun...